Search results

I came a bit late to this discussion. I own exactly 48 filters (i have made a small excel file to know which are they and where they are), diameters 27mm (Zeiss Contessa) to 77mm. I have filters of many brands and the worst filters can be easily singled out because they have some abberations or...

You can see the difference between a good filter and a bad one. And maybe this doesn't have too much to do with price. Indeed, for b&w color filters are a good asset and the end result is much better than doing the same in the digital world. Don't forget there's an "ignore" button, as useful...

I didn't know this camera existed. Thanks, i've learned something new today.

Monitors often can only display 24 bit depth of color (8 bits for each primary color, R, G, B). Thus when displaying greyscale they can only achieve 256 luminance values, which is very very restrictive. Same happens with cheap printers. I'm not aware of what is needed for truly good b&w prints...

I slightly disagree, because the image is formed of grains. Grains, if we are going to do a "digital" analogy, are more similar to pixels (short for "picture elements"). While noise, in the strict sense, has no relationship to the signal.

According to mamiya, its TLR system is professional. Get any C220 and look at the bottom, you'll see a proud banner that says "PROFESSIONAL". They want you to really know the camera is professional... And why shouldn't they be? They're very reliable, and have enough accesories to cover most...

Who makes the Hasselblad lenses now? Hint: it's a company that starts with F, located in japan, and it's mission is to slowly kill its film products.

In slide films, Provia 100F (2001) was an objective improvement in many regards (including grain), as was Astia 100 (accurate skin tones). Ektar 100 (2008) is objectively the finest-grained color negative speed of 100 speed, and as good as the old Ektar 25 Etc.

Great post.

You can get good info by downloading the catalogs at Pacific Rim Camera Library: https://pacificrimcamera.com/rl/rlcanon.htm It's a treasure chest of documents!

Some FL lenses' optics were directly carried over to the FD chrome nose era: FL 28/3.5 (only for the early FD versions, then it was changed from 7 elements to 6 elements.) FL 35/3.5 FL 50/1.4 II FL 50/1.8 (it's debatable really, the 50/1.8 was tweaked many times, apparently) FL 55/1.2 FL...

Modern Photography, April 1968.

But this info is not correct. It's not the first time the Canon museum is wrong (it has been wrong MANY times, contradicting canon's own catalogs). There are two optical designs of this lens., FL 50/1.4 was released 1965 and it's a 6/5. See diagram. FL 50/1.4 second version was released in...

You shouldn't use alkalines because the voltage isn't constant. Sunny 16 is more reliable that a light meter with a completely wrong battery. Now, it's your camera and you can do whatever you want. But what Wilt W. said is important -- once you try slide film you'll see how good or wrong the...

She's been a bad Kiev She's like a chemical Though you try to stop it She's like a lubitel You wanna torture her You wanna un-jam her All the backs you bought for her Could not get the spacing Pump it up, until you can feel it Pump it up, when you don't really need it

Hi Wilt, It does not. It uses a system similar to the one in the F-1 (galvanometer physically turns when the speed dial turns), but with more provisions for adjustment. btw, i love zinc-air cells.

Suggestion: When you want to check if a camera meter is OK, always check against a dedicated (handheld) meter or a very good (calibrated) camera. Camera meter apps aren't as accurate, and will not necessarily "see" the same angle and pattern as your TTL meter and will not necessarily have the...

They all have a protective glass over the focusing screen. For example on the Pentax 6x7 the focusing screen has over it a fresnel, and then it has a protective glass. It's a 3-piece assembly. Yes, the WLF has no glass,but the focusing screen is protected. So, for example, you can't scratch the...

Yes, i fully understand. I have two ETRSi and one ETRS (silver), plus the 40/4 MC, 50/2.8 MC and PE, 75/2.8 MC, EII, and PE, 105/3.5 MC, 150/3.5 PE, 200/4.5 PE and the 1.4x PE teleconverter. Plus some accesories like the Motor Drive E (the original). BTW, i don't know how many lenses do you...

I also think the same. The B35 has better ergonomics.

I think exactly the same as Sirius, can't stand the reversal. The only reversal I like is reversal processing. Yes, i understand. Maybe since i'm used to the RB67, everything seems light in comparison.

Good, good, thanks for helping us keep the New F1 prices from rising!!.

I am waiting!!

You should also add some conductive gel to increase conductivity...

Since you're canadian, this came to my mind: (I love The Kids In The Hall)

1. Any old (pre-1980s) camera will, will, will require service to work properly. 2. Don't bother with brands or camera types, etc. Just get a machine that works properly (and that has a working light meter) so you can get experience. You don't ever "need" a 50mm lens, it's fine if you have a...

I invoke @Nodda Duma , optical designer.

The triotar is actually a very good lens, at least at f8 or so. And using it at wider apertures makes no sense when you don't have a rangefinder. I have the strong suspicion that a previous camera tech has opened the lens for cleaning,and has misadjusted the lens focus. It should be...

If a FP shutter is too slow or sluggish, it needs to be cleaned and re-lubed again. And afterwards, it might not even need any adjustment on curtain tension. Incresasing curtain tension without addressing the problem first will end up in greater strain on the camera and will shorten its life.

Get the AE (AE II, AE III) finder. It makes the camera quicker to use thanks to the autoexposure.