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Now i will show an example of a DSLR scan with no oversharpening. Full image (downscaled). No scanning artifacts visible. 100% crop of the full-res image. You can check out how the grain (dye clouds) resolved -without being artificially pronounced on the downsampled image- and, again...

Acceptable? Sure, totally acceptable. My point is that, even at web-sizes, the increase in clarity from a really good scanner will be evident. And this is illustrated by the girl/model image i uploaded above. The oversharpening of the negative is readily evident.

Exactly.

Yes, I can see the difference, moreover if you click on the link and see the above mage at full size. And, as I hinted above, here due to the film being large format, the impact of grain will be minimal. But apply sharpening to a 35mm frame or 6x6 frame scanned with drum scan vs V850 and the...

Sorry, you misunderstood me. I'm not saying there's no difference when adjusting height. Of course there is! What i mean is that it will not enable you to go beyond the optical limitation of the machine (around 2700dpi). And what makes "little different" is to use a glass holder vs a non-glass...

No, you're just choosing to ignore the evidence. Check out this carefully done test of Epson V850 with film height adjustment, still no more than 2600dpi possible. There are also other tests of glass carrier vs no-glass carrier (all with height adjustment). The difference is minimal. Which is...

Thanks, you're supporting and demostrating my previous claim about the smearing of details by the Epson scanner -- it's completely evident on the link you're supplying. It demonstrates the clarity and the fidelity of the drum scan, which represents the real detail on the negative. So, thanks...

Maybe you already know this, but there are two typical problems with soviet lenses. a. - One is that the infinity stop position isn't correctly calibrated. I've recently bought a J8 1961, a Helios-103 from the 80s and a J-12 from the mid 60s. (all Contax mount). The first two had a wrong...

You have a very valid point. Of course if one is mostly posting pictures online or printing to small sizes, in theory it's pointless to be pursuing very high resolutions. The problem is, these Epson flatbeds also introduce chromatic artifacts and smearing of details. And, sadly, these add a...

Because, as I've said above and as you can find out in the internet if you do the research, your scanner doesn't have more than about 2700 real, true DPI. That's why your "6400dpi" scan won't look much better than "the 3200ppi" version. Now, run the very same frame (assuming it's a sharp frame)...

This is not true at all. Anyways, this topic has already been beaten to death.

You'll need to be very very careful (i.e. play a lot of time with height adjustment and/or glass holders) to get real 2700dpi out of the Epson V850, and even then, it would be "smeary" resolution, with little clarity. A 36mpx digital camera like the Sony A7R with a good macro lens can extract a...

Of course, the 28mm Orion-15, and the 20mm Russar MR-2 The only problem is that they're now being sold at silly high, nonsense prices.

Sorry but they are different services. "ebay Standard International Shipping" is not the same as ebay's "Global Shipping Program", which has its own(different) terms which includes letting you paying upfront for any customs taxes, instead of delegating all customs matters to the shipping operator.

Hi GOMZ-logo, Would you recommend the Leningrad over something like a Fed-2? BTW, if you service soviet cameras and have any docuemntation in english for the Kiev 88 other than the TENTO manuals, i'll be glad to have it!

Come on, it's unscientific to put this video. This isn't a valid test since the camera is not pivoting in any way. The whole horizontal base of the camera is sitting flatly against the desk thus there is zero chance for the camera to vibrate. For the penny to be disturbed, the vibration would...

We can always rely on Rowland Mowrey (RIP) aka "Photo Engineer" for the answers: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/b-w-reversal-minimizing-grain-size.39877/#post-569036 "Well, reversal first developers and second developers are not generally like normal negative developers. Among other...

Search for the thread on developing E6 slide film as slide using C41 chemicals. They just use strong developers for the FD.

You will LOVE to check out this post: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/e6-homebrew-chromebrew-warnig-longer-than-assumend.32721/#post-465875 Now, I thought the FD only needed to be a contrast-working developer. Thus, as far as I know, a strong developer like Dektol (or other paper...

I loved my 65/3.5, in fact it when I started slowly selling away my Mamiya TLR gear, that was the last thing I sold. I held to that 65/3.5 until the very end.

Technically, a 80/3.7 lens with 4 elements could be computed to be really, really sharp, even better than a 80/2.8 with 5-elements, all else being equal. The much lower f3.7 speed enables better optimization.

Um at least the Contax IIa is very easy to open... Maybe the IIIa has more steps due to the meter, i've yet to open my IIIa. But the IIa is very, very easy to disassemble down to having the rangefinder prisms out. Yes, i've also programmed some old x86 assembler too...

Sad to see this. However, the system, if i recall correctly, allows you to choose to drop the package at the nearest FedEx office instead of to your door. In my country FedEx works very well, and they would never leave a package in the door (because it would be immediately stolen here...)

Is this the same as "global shipping program"? I understand, at least for my country, that "eBay International Standard Delivery" uses Pitney Bowes.

Let's keep it under the radar... Hush hush

After the years i've had reading all sorts of documentation on this system plus forums, i can tell you that i never ever saw any suggestion that there was a 4-element 80/2.8. I've seen one very early brochure where there was a 3-element lens, i can't remember if it was the 135/3.5.

If the adjustment is on the "up" direction you might get away by putting something (i.e. electrician tape) to act as a shim so the mirror sits higher.

As i've mentioned, Zeiss labeled "Planar" lenses with very different designs. The diagram you show is indeed a Planar for the Hasselblad and the design is not exactly the same as a Xenotar. You can readily see how the first lens is formed by a group of two lenses, instead of a single positive...

I'm sorry, i was just offering a method that works on almost all SLRs. Almost every 35mm SLR out there can have its mirror angle adjusted from the outside. It surprises me that the OM-1 requires such a cumbersome procedure. Maybe you should double-check the service manual because I can't...

Now i will give you another way to check mirror angle without the use of special equipment. Go outside, with a lens with short depth of focus like a 50/1.4. Focus on a subject at infinity, like a city landscape with buildings, using the center of the viewfinder. When the mirror angle is off...