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Ok, sounds good. I also don't remember any washer, but coudn't have any other explanation. This is the parts diagram (from the ME which should be identical). What I recall is that the retainer C8 is the most important part to get tightly locked. If you get it sufficiently tight then C139 (cap)...

Maybe ADOX also want to eventually sell their own motion picture print film. Commercially this might make a ton of sense.

Sounds like a missing washer. Probably the advance lever top screw is getting friction against the advance lever. This should not happen on an ME or ME Super. Maybe it's better if you check a parts diagram and compare to your camera. This is not going to be solved with loctite or the like. My...

Agree!!

I like working on the Bronica ETRS / ETRSi, they're friendly. I like disassembling my Contax IIa, it's easy too. The Pentax 67 i also find friendly, however the plastic panels can break if you're not careful.

I disagree, that's one of the best places for a battery -- free from enviromental conditions.

If the Contax RTS III was the most wanted, it would have had better sales. The vacuum device is ingenious, however lenses don't focus to a flat plane. They try to do that, but it's optically difficult, if not impossible. Lenses can be easily designed to be focused on a curved plane (see, for...

This is great news!

Just FYI I ordered some things from Ukraine from the postal service and they arrived just fine. Around 20 calendar days if i recall correctly.

You do have a website.

Lol, i just read your post and realized this was already posted...

There is a positive confirmation. Read the manual. Why don't people read the user manuals? Don't blame Canon. Canon loves you. Page 14, film loading

I prefer the FE (or FE2) over the FM/FM2 series. For me the thing that i didn't like about the FM series was that the aperture value was on top, the speed at one side, the meter display at the other side. So i had to move my eye around. Ideally everything should be on the same side, as in most...

Holy moly!! I'm taking note!

Sorry, you're correct. Anyways... The best choice would be for the OP to try them first. Perhaps going to some camera store or photographers' club.

I wonder how's the climate where you live. My city is extremely humid (82% HR right now out there). CdS cells suffer with this, particularly the older ones. Put a camera in a very dry environment and it will be 'like new' forever.

This is most likely due to chromatic aberrations on the scanner lens. Which means the two color extremes (red and blue/violet) don't focus at the very same spot.

And i'd say it's not THAT extreme: You're clearly resolving the grain, however this is HP5. With a film like Acros 100, the grain would be much finer and there would be even more detaill, not just grain. Awesome. For the ones who want to see it for yourself, this is a 100% crop of McDiesel's...

So far every Nikon F i have had (5 in total) had a bad meter (bad cds cells), except for one which I could resurrect. On the other hand that one was a FTN model, while the others were Photomic TN models, which are older and thus i guess those CdS cells were not so resilient. Nikon F2...

Indeed you're right. The Canon 7, while much more ergonomic (viewfinder, parallax correction, easy loading) than a Leica IIF, isn't as well made. Canon did some cheapening down for the 7, compared to previous models.

They made a winderless variant of the OM1... Just wait until the wind mecanism gears eventually fail, then you'll have the winderless variant.

There are no electronics inside a Nikon F2....

Applause. This makes total sense. I would expect the Spotmatics, particularly the F, to have a brighter viewfinder than the SV which is very old. Or in any case, try the Pentax K2, it has the Spotmatic shape and a very good viewfinder. How can it be more of a beast? It feels better...

The problem is that we are talking a lot about resolution, but i think my main point, which is about "clarity", hasn't been taken into account. And this is something I've already wrote in the past here. To measure the fidelity of an optical system you have the MTF, the modulation transfer...

Thank you so much, i was feeling frustrated that few could see the obvious despite evidence I really felt like Mugatu...

As many have pointed out, the F is quieter sounding. I would say it feels tougher in the hand. But internally the F2 is a better machine. How much better? That's a good question. Both are very reliable. If you care for mirror lock up, get the F2. Otherwise the F with plain prism is great...

Esos dos centavos tienen muchísimo valor...

Wonderful

When the true 5000dpi-resolution dedicated film scanners appeared on the market, many claimed this was useless and that the already existing scanners (circa.2400dpi) were good enough, that there wasn't enough detail in the frame anyways. And then the results proved otherwise. In the very same...

This would mean your lenses are OK And thus you could recalibrate the Zorkis to read OK, you just need to know the procedure -- which involves shifting the position of the "keel". It isn't hard.