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I've modified one of my mamiya ETR backs for 120 use, where it gives me 16 exp instead of 15. The other ones i use for actual 220 film.

A friend just sold a 7 with the f0.95 lens, mint, for $890... i wonder if i should've bought it. But i prefer your lens.

Toasts are delicious, have you tried one? And yes, you're telling this in a room with a guy who is wearing a "Canon F-1" t-shirt -- me. (Seriously, literally). Nikon F2 is probably the greatest all-mechanical 35mm SLR, although the Leicaflex and some Alpas are strong contenders. As well as the...

Of course. Last year I sold my last F3. Yesterday I sold my F2SB, my last F2. I loved it, but it was very heavy... I'm keeping my mint FE as my sole Nikon camera for now. The FE will stay.

This (part in bold) is basically what happens on many electronic cameras where "the electronics are dead" thus "you should not rely on electronic cameras". Typically, simple electrical or electromechanical problems.

Note that they are very accurate through most of the range if recalibrated. You had meters that were off-calibration. Sometimes the CdS cells need replacement, but that's rare with the DP-11 and even with the DP-1. Internally there are pots for re-calibration. Great review of F3 vs F2, though.

Manual mode is the most convenient/easy/quick way to apply exposure lock and exposure compensation at the same time. Frame the area where no external extreme lights are invading the frame, apply exposure compensation (i.e. if subject is too light or dark) and that's it. Yes, easier than have...

I just cross my fingers and wait until @Les Sarile makes a comparison between the meter display of his F3, F2AS, FE, New F-1 and LX, to illustrate how clear or easy to see is each metering display.

@film_man As you can see, pro photographers expect the manual mode to be comfortable to use, even if aperture priority is available. The Pentax LX and Canon F-1 have aperture priority and a easy-to-use manual mode. Yes, i agree, Aperture Priority is a HUGE advantage, that's why I choose the...

It is also a pro camera, target to people who often require the MANUAL mode... Not for a professional camera. The Canon New F-1 and Pentax LX have more mechanical speeds available. Correct, I stand corrected. Thanks. So, we agree, right? Try the F2 trigger. Well, you need to try a...

By reading the user manual. Yes, it has 1/90 and T.

OMG, did all the electronics die?!

Well, we do agree in some things after all...

Now compared to the direct competitor, the Canon New F-1: - No weather sealing vs extensive weather sealing on the Canon. Source: Comparing both service manuals. Canon not only uses extensive silicone aprons throughout the camera, it has a section dedicated on how to re-apply sealant for...

Yes, and I'd say the FE due to the ability to mount pre-AI lenses. The FE is my Nikon of choice these days. If the FE was as well built as the F2... well, it would be the Nikon EL2, but the FE has some improvements over the EL2 despite using the same circuitry.

The list of things that are crippled on the F3 cs F2 can be very long... - Awful "+/-" tiny meter display (instead of extremely clear LEDs or needles) - Tiny, awful LED display (instead of clear numbers) - Only two mechanical speeds. No battery tester to see how much you've left (unlike Canon...

My F2S with upgraded screen has a brighter, clearer viewfinder than the F3 (regular finder) and F3P (with titanium HP finder) i had. The finder on the F2SB and AS is superior to the aforementioned F3 finders. The need for a semi-transparent mirror on the F3 impairs the potential for viewfinder...

I have the F2SB and have had the F2 with plain prism. The F2 with plain prism is more ergonomic, no doubt about it, and lighter. But the F2SB has not just an excellent LED meter (and very sensitive) but also an excellent display of shutter speed and aperture on the viewfinder, all arranged on...

I thought what I was suggesting was evident, but I'll make it explicit: On a digital color image, the color values follow a standard (i.e. Adobe RGB). Any color material that is scanned, be it Ektachrome, Kodachrome, various C41 films and various ECN2 films, passes through a conversion stage to...

Agree

What an excellent post, that's the reason I come here to Photrio. So QED: RA4 simply can't produce good color from a ECN-2 negative. But have you tried printing through a digital workflow? I guess it should work fine, perhaps even splendidly.

Bienvenido carnal!

If you want to really take high image quality, you'll first need to make sure you're getting top quality scanning (or printing) The 50/1.8 long-nose Nikkor is IMO pretty much unbeatable. Made in japan "Zeiss" is not comparable to real Zeiss IMO. Some people are suggesting Leica R lenses...

Substantial. In my experience the jump in quality from 35mm to 6x4.5 is bigger than the jump from 6x4.5 to 6x7. Math (considering area increase) supports this as well. Now, when using a very very good film like Fuji Acros on both formats, the jump isn't as dramatic, but it is still there...

How can it crack? It is 100% metal... Perhaps what has cracked is the pivot (the axis) of this lever, and that would be a serious damage that would require a new camera body.

I recommend you to send them via parcel to this friend of mine in slovenia. https://www.instagram.com/lzfotomehanika/ He's a professional (an actual electromechanic engineer) and does excellent service, much better than me. On cameras that are much more complex than the C220. He would make a...

This, this and this. And add, good quality materials. I'm already traumatized by finding some rusted screws in a soviet camera, which made them impossible to remove. Also, add to that list, good service manuals. I'm opening a separate thread on Kiev 88 cameras because of the poor documentation...

We're too old. PS: Great idea...

Of course. ECN2 film that, when developed in C41, is perfectly fine for all the younger film shooters who love outdated film, "film soups", and other similar stuff that doesn't give correct colors. Yes, this sounds the most plausible. Thus, it's confimed. It IS an ECN-2 film. No cameraman...

This means it was digital printing. The printer (laser, if i recall correcly) knows how to output any digital file to RA4 paper correctly. If on the scan everything looks good (and it should, since it's ECN2 film developed on the ECN2 process), then the output should look good. However if you...