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That's some sincere, refreshing honesty from them!!

My recommendation: Screw Leica. And I don't mean "buy a leica screwmount camera". If you want a LTM camera, the Canons are nicer. If you want a M-mount camera, there are those Voigtlander machines for an affordable price.

Ah, enslaved color. It seems "NC" in "NC500" stands for "No Color" Well, let's hope the next batch is improved, cross fingers...

Now, to continue my descripiton of the Hasselblad 1600F/Salyut... And to specifically tease mr. Sirius Glass... The good part was that my Salyut-C cameras, both of them, had dramatically less camera vibration than my friend's (mint, serviced) Hasselblad 500C/M. The difference was easy to feel...

I never got good results with the Selfix 820. Either the lens (ross xpres) has enormous field curvature, or the film plane is curved. I could calibrate it for a sharp center but then the edges would be unsharp. Only way to have the whole field sharp was to use it at f11 or 16.

They're really way too expensive now. The soviet Salyut is exactly the same camera, and can be had for much lower prices. And i bet you have more chance to get a properly working Salyut... All these cameras have a Focal plane shutter with curtain straps being fragile. Plus, of course...

The SEI meter you describe is a comparison meter, technology that has been largely superseded by meters that directly measure the light instead of relying on the eye (like extintion meters)

Yes, plus I risk to say using a LED light behind your Dunkelkammerschutzfilter is risky, since LED lights have a pretty weird spectral response.

I believe you want to use a "dunkelgrün" safelight not a "dark green" safelight when you're using OrWo films!!

Interesting, it mentions instructions for development under inspection: Dunkelkammerbeleuchtung Die Filme sollten bei völliger Dunkelheit verarbeitet werden. Falls unbedingt erforderlich, kann die Verarbeitung beim Licht einer 15-Watt-Lampe (indirekt) mit Dunkelkammerschutzfilter ORWO Nr. 108...

Depends on the camera, sometimes on the brand itself. I have reasons to believe Pentax and Canon did achieve reliable electronics, Pentax from the ES II onwards (1973? 74?) and Canon from the AE-1 onwards (1976). Pentax was the first manufacturer to put electronics on a pro SLR, the Pentax 6x7...

Never attempt to remove the lens mount in the P30. It'll be a nightmare to put the electronic contact pins and aperture coupling lever back again.

The shutter that is in best shape, free of corrosion/rust and signs of having been dropped.

I can feel your Pentaxism from here. I also feel the same about the F2, great machine internally, great viewfinder, but very un-ergonomic, badly balanced. The Canon F-1 is much better balanced, even though the meter isn't as refined as the later F2 meters. Not to mention the Pentax LX...

YESSSSSS!!! EMBRACE THE WEIGHT!!!! Note that the link you provided is for the old F-1, not the new F-1.

Nice to know you have located the fault (I told you to check timing!) But note that the tutorial at Richard Haw page does tell you how the main cog (the biggest one) should be positioned before assembling the shutter.

Hi, You should read RIchard Haw's tutorial on the Contax camera, it has three parts and covers it extensively. Now, before putting the curtain drums on their axis, particularly the upper curtain drum, you need to be sure the shutter is timed correctly. Otherwise nothing will work as it should...

However, if you check out the story of many manufacturers you'll find each one has quite a few "industry first". For example Canon was the first to introduce the fastest lens for SLR cameras (58/1.2 Super-Canomatic R) and the widest retrofocus lens at some time (FL 19/3.5R), first fluorite...

I love the fixed-lens Olympus cameras. I think those are the best machines Olympus did and where they did their best. The OM-1, however, while being influential (it steered the market into compact machines) wasn't the best implementation of what a "compact SLR" could be. Pentax did this task...

You should not mess with curtain tension if you haven't disassembled the camera to clean and lubricate the shutter (and mechanisms) Chances are, after cleaning and lubricating, everything will work again fine without needing any change in curtain tension. Increasing curtain tension will add...

You lucky guy!

When you check the magazine tests of late 70s and 80s you'll see which were the top 4, and which ones were lagging behind. Many japanese manufacturers put out some great lenses (i.e. Olympus has the 50/3.5 or 28/2, outstanding lenses), but the top 4 consistently put out the best lenses possible...

I'm still using my Contax IIIa this month. Now augmented with W-Nikkor 35/2.5 and Sonnar 50/2 and Triotar 85/4

I also do as lxdude (btw, just got my first LX this week). When I use 6x6 format, i compose square. Otherwise i have nice 6x4.5 and 6x7 cameras. I do have, in the past, chosen a different crop at enlarging time, but it's rare. 99% of the times I shoot with the final crop in mind.

According to whom? I'm a camera technician, the Kiev isn't a hard camera to overhaul. It is hard if you don't know which screws to remove first, otherwise, the shutter module itself can be removed rather quickly. Perhaps curtain strap replacement requires some work and patience, but still much...

However you can easily get a Kiev-15, -10 from ebay, at reasonable prices, so not that rare. You didn't answer about the Kiev rangefinders. To me, those are the best soviet cameras ever. In #2 i'd put the Salyut/Kiev-88, it just needs service before usage.

This is also the reason i didn't get a Canon T90. Why should I care for multi-spot metering when i'm happy using all my medium cameras with a handlheld meter, and even I use my Contax IIa out there in the streets with just my eye as an estimator of exposure? Besides, when I was using slides I...

But Mr. DMess, if I wanted a big magnification i could get the F-1 6x magnification variable-diopter finder (FN-6X, which i own), which Pentax also offers. The FN-6X has complex optics on the inside and gives a pristine, aberration-free, huge image close to the size of what you'd find on a...

I own over 50 lenses and none of them is a zoom. I've owned some great zooms but at the end i preferred to replace them with one or two smaller primes. For me, it's a matter of size, and also of lack of distortion. Zooms often have distortion. (The really good ones don't)

A steal!!