No, a new hasselbald is like campagnolo compared to shimano. The campagnolo wears in from new whereas the shimano wears out from new.
If you've never owned a brand new hasselblad you wouldn't know about that. I've owned three new ones and all three have had jamming problems when new until they...
I'd say its probably condensation on the negative roll then and/or possibly film over tightly wound onto roll. Is it 120 film and do you pull the end tab very tight (too tight) before sticking it down when you've finished exposing a roll?
its the setup and take down time and not the time I take to select a composition. And with LF you need to spend much more time checking and rechecking. I'm still very picky about what I actually photograph having worked with LF and understanding to a degree that what looks like a nice a view...
where are you seeing that, on the print or on the negative?
If its on the print are you printing using glass carriers above and/or below the negative and does the negative have the emulsion side facing the print, i.e. at the bottom when printing? And if you are using glass above the negative...
op is from UK so dollar values mean nothing if you don't know what exchange rate was at the time. Unless he's buying one from the US.
Hasselblad dealers in UK and maybe rest of Europe would do special deals to get people into their "system" back then. Don't know how it worked in the US.
they could be bought for £1000 in UK from some shops offering entry level hasselblad kit. Elsewhere quite a bit more. Just depended on if you found somewhere doing a special offer.
yeah I know there are several models that would be good. I'm not ruling one out some time in the future but for now I'm sticking with 35mm. I have all the enlarger and developing kit for 4x5 and a stache of 4x5 negs that still need printing but I'm not so sure about carrying all the 4x5 kit on...
I'm in UK and know that suppliers come and go. The formulary is a constant so I'd just get it from there unless you have a good reason to source it from elsewhere.
The Contax T1 was supposed to be a better camera thn the T2 but is not AF and has 28mm lens and not 35mm lens like the T2.
But if you are going small and want something very very good then why not a Contax G1 or G2 which have super lenses of different FL including, 28, 35, 45 and 90. The 45 is...
only you can tell if your focus is where you intended it to be with any particular camera.
Since a lot of compact camera have wide angle lenses DoF is usually quite great so what may appear to be out of focus could well be camera movement.
I've always found it really difficult to hold a small...
if you tested it find out what the actual offsets are, then what is the problem with using the offsets your tests give. This is no different than a lot of us testing for personal film speed/EI which takes into account any meter inaccuracies/offsets that we have in our equipment and/or procedures.
I wouldn't have done it. Not with 100% digital technology at night. I might have photographed in the day time or dusk as a silhouette against the sky with analogue technology though.
There's an unlimited number of things anyone could do just becasue they could. How many of them would be pointless? None of them? Or would they just prove that something pointless can be done.
Again, Why?
The technikardan is a beautifully designed and built piece of engineering but not the right camera for me. It was my my first LF camera and I thought that since it was also a monorail it would do everything including studio still life and portrait which it does. But what I didn't realise was...
are you intending slides or negatives?
use whichever speed film you feel comfortable with. If negative then how big do you intend to enlarge?
With colour neg film I think 400 speed will be fine. With B&W neg film 400 is OK if you use tgrain such as delta 400 or T-Max and you may prefer a bit...
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