• Welcome to Photrio!
    Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.
    Click here to sign up

Pix of your home-built cams, mods and creations here please (part 2)

Weed

A
Weed

  • 2
  • 3
  • 40
Fire escape.

H
Fire escape.

  • 2
  • 3
  • 37

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
204,351
Messages
2,867,448
Members
102,232
Latest member
redhossu
Recent bookmarks
0
A while ago I made this 'redcam' a transparant red box with a lens to be used as a
'afgan-camera,' but with the capability to see the proces in real time happening IN the camera..
I like the idea to make the magic visible and if you like it more simple you can use harman direct positive paper.. but my cam is at the moment made of white transparant plexyglass and red foil taped in it... (it is not nice transparant, a little Matt... :sad: ) does any body know a place where I can buy nice transparant darkroom safe red plexiglas ? to build a camera that works, AND is PRETTY to look at?

Marvelous idea! Should also work good for wet plates.
 
Just finished a 4x5 wide camera using a MC 65mm f/5.6 Super Angulon in the Schneider helical. The camera has a Graflok back and thank goodness for a fellow Photo member he found me the super hard to find Cambo folding focusing hood.

(PS) my outdated Velvia test shots needed WAYYYYYY more exposure. I gave it an extra 2/3 of a stop and prob could have used at least that much more!!

4x5 65mm.jpg4x5 65mm-3.jpg4x5 65mm-2.jpg4x5 65mm-5.jpg4x5 65mm-4.jpgMilwaukee Bridge.jpgFlying Cupcake.jpg
 
DIY Graflok back for my Plaubel Peco Jr.

Reverse engineered from a Cambo 4x5 -> 6x9 rear standard adapter plate.

SLS 3D printed in Nylon 12 GF. Mounted onto a laser cut sheet of 1.5mm 4130 Chromoly.

Spring steel & ground glass taken from original Cambo plate. Thread-to-expand M3 inserts & M3x6mm bolts.


54724664662_6a28c3a38c_c.jpg
54724664677_9d2e812071_c.jpg
54725717724_a72e015e00_c.jpg
 
Verito 7" f/4 Diffused Focus lens re-mounted into Prontor Professional #3 Shutter. Seen here mounted onto a Plaubel Peco Jr 96mm X 95mm lens board.

54872444365_dbf44e7dd8_c.jpg
 
Recently finished a personal 4x5 point and shoot with a Linhof stamped 65mm f/5.6. Really excited and looking forward to shooting with this one!
65mm_Point_and_Shoot-6.jpg
65mm_Point_and_Shoot.jpg
 
Last edited:
Recently finished a personal 4x5 point and shoot with a Linhof stamped 65mm f/5.6. Really excited and looking forward to shooting with this one!View attachment 413217 View attachment 413219

This looks really gorgeous! Look forward to your photos.

P.S. I guess the SA 65mm f5.6 version has more coverage than f8. My f8 has some corner vignetting even stopped down to f/22.
 
I grew tired of using the sheet film holders on my Ensign Popular, so I fitted a Adapt a roll 620, unfortunately I couldn't stop it from scratching the film and overlapping negatives. I just picked up a new Shen Hao sh612, I'll see how that goes. I like 6/12 aspect ratio.
20260305_140041(1).jpg20260305_151112(1).jpg20260305_151516(1).jpg
 
For a while now, I am using a Fuji GW690 and GSW690, 6x9 format camera's, it occurred to me that panorama's would be nice, as well as some flexibility wrt lenses. So,I built this over the christmas holidays:

It is a wooden (dovetailed mahogany) box with a 3d printed lid with a lens mount.
And a Horseman filmback

Or a groundglass


First proper field tests in Austria, and it works really well, the weather wasn't great, so that was an extra complication on an already elaborate workflow (especially on deep snow with snowshoes on). Missed quite a few shots where I forgot to take the darkslide out, and had to dry off everything every single time after going out for a walk.
But it works :D I use it with two lenses, a Schneider Kreuznach 58mm XL and Apo Sironar 150mm, I bought a few 6x9 backs, but also the (very expensive) Horseman 6x12 back.


The viewfinder (works really well, but needs two lens kits for mobile phones that you need to buy, at about 25EUR each)
Masks for 58mm and 150mm (in both 6x9 and 6x12)
 
Neat. What is the focusing helical?

Not to criticize. I understand the joy of tinkering, also that 4x5 Crown Graphics are probably scarce and expensive in the NL. That said, a 4x5 Crown will work with your lenses, and many more.
 
Those are the M65 focusing helicoids from AliExpress, and they are pretty good, there's a little bit of wobble but not much, they work smooth and the focusing through is OK, maybe a bit long, especially on the 25-55 which I use for the 150mm (the 58 has 17-31).
There's certainly the joy of tinkering, but also, a lot more understanding about optics now (currently building a reflex viewer). Initially, the idea was to also be able to use this without a tripod, so zone focused. And I have actually done that, no groundglass needed. Pretty light and compact also, or, well, it's comparative, innit?


I also liked the idea of easy to find Graflok accessories.

4x5 Crowns are difficult to come by overhere, you do find Horsemans now again, but that's 900 euro's easily. The idea was to make this cost effective (didn't manage that, I recently did the math, and it's north of 2k). So, well, maybe I should have sprung for a Linhof Technorama (also easier to find over here, naturally), but then, each and every extra lens is a lot of money, and I recently bought a Nikkor W 135mm for 50 euros.

Will say, rise/fall/shift is pretty helpful sometimes, so I am thinking of designing a camera which can do that. But ultimately, I found that a lot of the more compact camera's had tradeoffs I did not like (Horseman Convertible, Alpa, Linhof Technorama, Cambo Wide, Silvestri), so that is the main reason for designing my own. Only later did I came across Alvandi, which would make sense from a cost/functionality standpoint, but they are in Iran, so that's also a complication (certainly now).
 
Shift and or rise/fall is necessary.
I've been thinking about altering a 4x5 to nikon (just as an example) stitching adapter to achieve this. But the prices have gotten ridiculous.
 
I had a bit of time this afternoon, so I converted an old full plate camera to take Linhof lens board, fitted a 4x5 back and tripod mount.
Nice and light at 2.3kgs and I can use a 90mm lens without a recessed lens board.

20260318_173447(1).jpg20260318_173331(1).jpg20260318_173314(1).jpg20260318_173405(1).jpg
 
I have a couple of Yashica Electro 35 CC's and a GX. A minor frustration is the limited ISO range -- from 25 to 500 for the CC's and 25-800 for the GX. I re-set the light sensor aperture to bump the ranges to 100-2000 and 100-3200. The process involved marking the factory positions of the foil and the ring, marking what will be the new position (shifting the foil clockwise by four holes), carefully ungluing (soaking with generous amounts of acetone) and using a chisel-blade X-Acto-type knife to remove the foil aperture strip from the metal ring it's seated on (when installed, the ring is mechanically tied to the lens aperture adjustment ring). Then re-gluing the foil in its new position, and re-installing it in the lens. I added a label on the bottom of the camera to remind myself of the new ISO range. So far, this seems to work fine. The upside -- more flexibility in pushing film speed and cheating the auto exposure system. The downside is not being able to use sub-100 ISO film.

01_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.40.00.jpg
02_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.45.17.jpg
03_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.46.58.jpg
04_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.52.15.jpg
05_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.53.43.jpg
06_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.54.51.jpg
07_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 13.56.03.jpg
08_Screenshot 2026-04-24 at 14.00.43.jpg
 
Hey there, I just checked out the Sawyer mkII, my only concern with that particular camera is how the film is advanced. I couldn’t see a know or lever. One thing that really drew me to the Wirgin was the lever advance which makes advancing film easier when you are out shooting. I’ve seen a bunch of cool conversions made out of Stereo Realist cameras but they use a knob to advance the film and the back also is removed when changing film. Little things make it more convenient and enjoyable to shoot with. The Wirgin seems quite robust and the first couple rolls look pretty good!

I'm working on a wirgin stereo panoramic conversion
(I bought a milled out body)
The toothed film transport wheel should move with the winding action? Or spin free? Right now it grinds the film.
Any info would be appreciated
 
I'm working on a wirgin stereo panoramic conversion
(I bought a milled out body)
The toothed film transport wheel should move with the winding action? Or spin free? Right now it grinds the film.
Any info would be appreciated

if I’m not mistaken it can be completely removed. I think all of my cameras that’s been removed, and I filled the hole with epoxy and flat black paint. It’s only for the frame counter which gets way too wonky on a body that’s been carved out as wide as a Wirgin. It’s easier just to advance four times per frame.
Dirk
 
I'm working on a wirgin stereo panoramic conversion
(I bought a milled out body)
The toothed film transport wheel should move with the winding action? Or spin free? Right now it grinds the film.
Any info would be appreciated
The winder only turns the take up spool. It transports the film which turns the sprocket wheel. The latter should turn freely until it reaches the designed frame spacing, after which it locks. Pressing the shutter release plunger unlocks the sprocket wheel for the next cycle. Just try pressing the release.
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom