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Zero Halliburton Case Restoration: Foam Cutting

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ic-racer

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I got this Zero Halliburton aluminum case in 1985 and have replaced the foam 3 times. Last time I went to use it the foam had fallen apart.
The last three times I used a long knife to cut the foam. It never came out too well.

This time I thought I'd try to cut the foam with a hot wire.

I got the replacement foam from www.cobrafoaminserts.com. They sell exact replacement for the four original pieces of foam that came in the case when it was new. The foam was a perfect fit.


haliburton foam 1.JPG
haliburton foam.JPG
 
Test fitting the equipment on the new foam.


DSC_0432.JPG
 
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This is the setup. A power supply and guitar string stretched tight. The little ViceGrip holds the wire tight. Below the guitar wire is looped around a wooden dowel with a wood screw holding the power wire and the guitar string tight together.
The two one-inch boxes are needed because the wire does not cut at the end, only near the middle (because the end cools at the attatchemnt point).

Trial and error was needed on the power supply (5 to 9 v depending on the wire). Hot enough to cut, but not so hot to become red (otherwise the wire breaks).

I tried a .010", 0.012" and 0.016" wire. (E, B and G). The 0.012" worked best for me.
foam cutter.JPG
 
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Foam cutting is done with a wavy sharp edged steel blade that resembles a bread knife. There are special power cutters which do this, employing very narrow knives which can make tight turns. These machines are generally expensive, although cheaper amateur version can be found online. But I've also sold wavy blades which fit regular handheld electric jigsaws. Hot wires and hot knives are not generally used for spongy foam, just firm styrofoam.

Glad you found your own solution. The bigger problem is how to keep shiny Halliburton cases from being stolen!
 
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The center two pices of foam are pretty dense, Shore A of 40 or so, just as I remember the original. More dense than the squishy top and bottom pieces and more dense than typical segmented pluck' foam. So, this was almost like cutting styrofoam.
 
I've used an electric knife with two moving serrated blades. Intended for food use - it does well on turkey breasts and freshly baked bread - it does well on plastic foam, although sharp "turns" are...difficult.
 
Definitely cleaner than the Pelican "pick-apart" style foam.
 
Ha! I was given a test sample of a big wavy foam knife designed to fit a construction reciprocal saw or Sawzall. It was too long, thin, and floppy. The manufacturer almost immediately gave up on the idea of marketing it. But for fun they took one of these, along with the electric saw, to their own company Christmas party. It actually worked quite well carving up the turkey. This was before commercialized electrical meat carving and bread knives started showing up at kitchen stores.
 
Calumet used to sell Cordura covers for Halliburton cases; the idea was that you would cover them with paint splotches and graffiti to hide the shiny aluminum, and deter potential thieves.
Most all of them that I've seen had decaying foam, and I never knew how to replace it. So I've never considered using one- but they sure are elegant.
 
If any moisture gets inside, open-cell foam starts going powdery. My older brother had a commercial photography career when it was deemed appropriate to look successful. He wore white shoes, drove a Porsche, and used shiny Halliburton cases. His gear was repeatedly stolen. So then he put a big sticker on his cases, "Dead Cat Enclosed". That didn't work.
 
Foam cutting is done with a wavy sharp edged steel blade that resembles a bread knife. There are special power cutters which do this, employing very narrow knives which can make tight turns. These machines are generally expensive, although cheaper amateur version can be found online. But I've also sold wavy blades which fit regular handheld electric jigsaws. Hot wires and hot knives are not generally used for spongy foam, just firm styrofoam.

Glad you found your own solution. The bigger problem is how to keep shiny Halliburton cases from being stolen!

I bought some nice foam for camera case use and was advised, here I think, to use an electric carving knife, which was not expensive on Amazon, a Sunbeam, with narrow blades IIRC.

It cuts foam well and shapes well so take a look on what's on line.
 
Yes, electric meat carving knife works too. I used one on the little rectangular openings (evident by no burn marks). But I find it harder to make a perpendicular cut, or, as pointed out, a curved cut.
 
How are you making rectangular or free-form cuts in that foam?
 
If the pieces to cut are smaller than 10x10 inches I put them in my laser engraver. These pages outline the laser process:



In the past i have used a bread knife. I have not gotten to the rectangular holes yet and the case inserts I am now making are way too big to fit in the laser. I have an electric carving knife coming tomorrow...
 
I wonder on the cost though...
 
In the past i have used a bread knife. I have not gotten to the rectangular holes yet and the case inserts I am now making are way too big to fit in the laser. I have an electric carving knife coming tomorrow...
The carving knife works very well. I have it cleaned up and ready to carve the home corned beef we are having for dinner tonight. (twofer)

Here are the results of my case for the Pentax 6X7: https://www.beevo.org/Photography/PhotographicEquipment/Pentaximus/index.htm

The page about the hole saw has been updated: http://www.beevo.org/Photography/PhotographicEquipment/FoamHoleSaw/FoamHoleSaw.html
 
I find that a snap-blade razor knife (the OLFA-5023-Multi-Purpose-Craft-Knife is one example) works well enough for me. I just extend the blade out and carefully cut with a sawing action.
 
These sheets were 2" thick and fairly stiff foam. I have used the grown up version of the Olfa knife in the past.
 
I'd use a scroll saw to cut such foam, with a multi-direction blade. But I have a scroll saw.
 
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