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OP
Thanks very much Suzanne. Very encouraging! I've heard a lot about stainless steel tanks. Time to start looking on ebay after a bit more research! 
YAY! I have an old room - now what?
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Hi Nicole,
The best thing about doing your own developing is the control you have to work the way you want to. Rather than be at the mercy of the lab, you can use Rodinal, or Pyro, or some home brew that you read about and can experiment with different materials until you find something that fits your vision.
Yes you can develop both 35mm and medium format with the same chemicals and equipment. A one reel medium format tank will also hold two 35mm reels. The developing times may be slightly different between 35mm and medium format depending on the brand of film, but is usually not that much different. Most enlargers will handle both 35mm and medium format up to about 6x7.
For chemicals, I would start out trying what is readily available in your area first. Everyone has their own opinion about what film / developer combo is the best for them, so I would say experiment with a few untill you find one that you like using and then learn everything you can about using it.
The best thing about doing your own developing is the control you have to work the way you want to. Rather than be at the mercy of the lab, you can use Rodinal, or Pyro, or some home brew that you read about and can experiment with different materials until you find something that fits your vision.
Yes you can develop both 35mm and medium format with the same chemicals and equipment. A one reel medium format tank will also hold two 35mm reels. The developing times may be slightly different between 35mm and medium format depending on the brand of film, but is usually not that much different. Most enlargers will handle both 35mm and medium format up to about 6x7.
For chemicals, I would start out trying what is readily available in your area first. Everyone has their own opinion about what film / developer combo is the best for them, so I would say experiment with a few untill you find one that you like using and then learn everything you can about using it.
It looks like Suzanne and I posted at the same time.
OP
OP
JD Morgan said:
Wow JD, how do you know Camera Electronics in my home town?
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fingel said:
Thanks very much Scott!!!
Look forward to experimenting.
OP
OP
DUH!
UH OH another old tourguide. I did that for several years before I got married. I bet the two of us could go on for days about our experiences. That one sentence brought back a whole lot of stories to my mind.Nicole McGrade said:I have quite a few cultural stories to tell from my tourguiding days way back...
a big trick to use to learn how to work with film in a darkroom is take one roll of the film in the size you use, and sacrifice it to the great good of the film Gods. Once you have the developing tank you intend to use, you will know have a practice roll of film to do dry runs of loading said film onto the reel. It is easier to do looking at it the first few times, before you try it with your eyes closed. Being in the dark and trying to load a reel for the first time without any practice will brings tears to your eyes. No amount of prayers to the film Gods after you are in the dark will help you if you have not practiced it first. The Stainless Steel reels are the best IMO, but the easier plastic reels are fine too. The plastic reels you just start the film into it, and then reatch it along until it has all fed onto the reel. A very simple thing to do unless it gets hung up. The plastic reels take more chemistry than the Stainless Steel. They can also build up gunk on the plastic that can be a PIA to clean.
Hello Nicole,
After 15 years out of the darkroom I managed to get myself sorted out and build my own in my basement.
Two books which I found really useful were:
Into Your Darkroom Step-by-Step by Curtin and Musselman
Build Your Own Home Darkroom by Duren and McDonald.
I found the former really useful because it shows all of the steps, from the development of negatives right up to techniques for improving your prints. Each step is in the process is photographed and captioned. All the eqpt needed for each step is also listed. It is a great resource.
The latter was useful to me because it goes through basic possible darkroom layouts up to techniques for lightproofing. The best part of the book (IMO) is that it gives detailed plans on how to build sinks, tables, light-boxes, drying racks and all sorts of other things.
I found both of them on Chapters, but I bet that they are available on Amazon.
Hope that this helps.
Kent.
PS. No affiliation blah, blah, blah
After 15 years out of the darkroom I managed to get myself sorted out and build my own in my basement.
Two books which I found really useful were:
Into Your Darkroom Step-by-Step by Curtin and Musselman
Build Your Own Home Darkroom by Duren and McDonald.
I found the former really useful because it shows all of the steps, from the development of negatives right up to techniques for improving your prints. Each step is in the process is photographed and captioned. All the eqpt needed for each step is also listed. It is a great resource.
The latter was useful to me because it goes through basic possible darkroom layouts up to techniques for lightproofing. The best part of the book (IMO) is that it gives detailed plans on how to build sinks, tables, light-boxes, drying racks and all sorts of other things.
I found both of them on Chapters, but I bet that they are available on Amazon.
Hope that this helps.
Kent.
PS. No affiliation blah, blah, blah
Depends on the equipment. I have a Paterson (sp?) two reel tank with plastic reels. the reels can be expanded to hold medium format film but then you can only fit one reel at a time into the tank. Full stainless steel tank/reel setups will probably require getting different reels for the different film sizes.Nicole McGrade said:
I pretty much use the same chemicals for any format. It really comes down to personal choice and how many chemical bottles you want to have/store in the house. My whole setup (chemical bottles, tank/reels, measuring cups, etc) fits in a large RubberMaid container that I can store in the basement and just bring upstairs when I'm developing. I'm not yet printing at home, but my goal is to keep my developing kit to no more than three trips to the basement and half an hour of setup time even when I make that step.
This is the fun part.....Nicole McGrade said:How do I know which chemicals and paper are best for me?
Silly and tricky questions, I'm sure...
Experiment!
A little PS note:
To develop film you don't need an extra room. I develop mine in the kitchen sink, ater loading the tanks in the "light-proof" closet.
I light-proofed the closet by using weather strips (sponge like) in the seals of the door and a black rubber strip at the bottom.
In my younger years I did the same thing by using rolled paper that i had painted balck and stick to the door fram eusing duct tape.
To develop film you don't need an extra room. I develop mine in the kitchen sink, ater loading the tanks in the "light-proof" closet.
I light-proofed the closet by using weather strips (sponge like) in the seals of the door and a black rubber strip at the bottom.
In my younger years I did the same thing by using rolled paper that i had painted balck and stick to the door fram eusing duct tape.
SuzanneR
Moderator
Boy, when it comes to getting someone into the darkroom this is a very enthusiastic bunch!
Good luck!
Suzanne
Good luck!
Suzanne
The key is not leaving people in the dark :LOL:
Suzanne Revy said:
SuzanneR
Moderator
titrisol said:
RLOL!!!
Suzanne
Nicole, you can probably get pretty much all you need for under $200 (second hand enlarger, etc.) The Perth Trading Post could be an even better place to look than you-know-what-Bay. A Paterson tank with the adjustable reel for 35mm or 120 will cost about $50 new. I'm not familiar with any good photographic equipment shops in Perth, but it looks like you already know Camera Electronics (wherever that is). To black out the skylight just buy some of that thin black plastic sheet stuff used for gardening, and make a few layers and duct tape it to the ceiling. That black webbed duct tape is always cheaper at the stupid-market than the photo place. If there is a light gap at the bottom of the door that thin foam stuff (which you can get at Spotlight) folded over and taped to the door should keep the light out.
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pity you're so far away, I have two spare enlargers at the moment...
I bought another Paterson Universal tank recently and it was just over $50 (includes one reel than can be sized for 35mm and 120, the tank itself can hold 2 reels in 35mm mode, or 1 in 120 format). My original one is 20 years+ old and still fine, not sure why I bought the new one, think I was planning on using them in tandam but I've never been in the situation I've needed to do that. Plastic reels are easy to load as long as they are dry. I have several reels so that if I want to do more films I have a dry one handy. these tanks come up on eBay all the time but watch out for prices and postage... they aren't usually what I'd call a bargain.
Depending on how much film your going to process, I'd suggest a liquid concentrate for a developer, water for stop bath/rinse and another liquid concentrate for fixer (Ilford Hypam, bought in 5lt containers is quite economical). If you start printing (which you should!) you then use the Hypam in a different dilution for paper fixer and need some paper developer and ourdourless stop bath (Ilford). I always avoided mixing dry packed developers but there's nothing special to mixing them, the only considerations you need to consider is the storage requirements and shelf life of the stock solutions. Mixing 5lts of XTOL means you need enough bottles to store it in and somewhere safe to keep it. Same goes with Dektol (paper developer) which makes 3.78lts.
If you decide printing is also on the agenda, ask here for opinions on enlargers that you find. That website mentioned above have quite a few but there a bit exxy, much better value to be had via Trading Post, etc.
I bought another Paterson Universal tank recently and it was just over $50 (includes one reel than can be sized for 35mm and 120, the tank itself can hold 2 reels in 35mm mode, or 1 in 120 format). My original one is 20 years+ old and still fine, not sure why I bought the new one, think I was planning on using them in tandam but I've never been in the situation I've needed to do that. Plastic reels are easy to load as long as they are dry. I have several reels so that if I want to do more films I have a dry one handy. these tanks come up on eBay all the time but watch out for prices and postage... they aren't usually what I'd call a bargain.
Depending on how much film your going to process, I'd suggest a liquid concentrate for a developer, water for stop bath/rinse and another liquid concentrate for fixer (Ilford Hypam, bought in 5lt containers is quite economical). If you start printing (which you should!) you then use the Hypam in a different dilution for paper fixer and need some paper developer and ourdourless stop bath (Ilford). I always avoided mixing dry packed developers but there's nothing special to mixing them, the only considerations you need to consider is the storage requirements and shelf life of the stock solutions. Mixing 5lts of XTOL means you need enough bottles to store it in and somewhere safe to keep it. Same goes with Dektol (paper developer) which makes 3.78lts.
If you decide printing is also on the agenda, ask here for opinions on enlargers that you find. That website mentioned above have quite a few but there a bit exxy, much better value to be had via Trading Post, etc.
DIGITAL IS FOR THOSE AFRAID OF THE DARK.
I wish I had stumbled upon this group before I went out and started to build a darkroom in my basement. I am now using the downstairs johnnie (built in fan) and storing chemicals and water in large cabinets so that all are the same temp when I start. I look forward to learning more from this auspicious group.
Nicole, get some of those posted so we can see them.
Nicole, get some of those posted so we can see them.
Books
Max Power said:
Nicole,
Your question was originally posted on the basis of having a room to use for developing films. I have always used the kitchen for my developing, and didn't even use a darkroom to load my developing tanks until last year (I developed my first film in the 1950's...). A changing bag, as mentioned in the Ilford primer that you were recommended, is a serviceable alternative. I didn't even use one of those until I acquired one to use with bulk film loading in the late 1960's. I just dived under the bedclothes at night. Hot, cramped but it worked.
One item not explicitly mentioned is a thermometer; perhaps it was too obvious.
My introduction to the darkroom side of photography was via contact printing; my first attempts were made using a 1/6d packet of hypo crystals and a 1/3d packet of developer. On the basis of a fluid ounce of water weighing an ounce, I weighed the water, rather than using a measuring cylinder. My developing dish was an old saucer, and my printing frame was a sheet of glass from an old photo frame. (For those not familiar with real British money, 1/6d is about 7.5p, which was about the price of a quarter of a gallon of petrol in those days.)
In all the years I have been developing films, I have only had 2 failures, and one was the very first film, because I did not manage to load the film onto the spiral correctly. I certainly recommend wasting an unexposed film in making sure that you are confident in the loading before committing to a valuable film.
Stephen
Your question was originally posted on the basis of having a room to use for developing films. I have always used the kitchen for my developing, and didn't even use a darkroom to load my developing tanks until last year (I developed my first film in the 1950's...). A changing bag, as mentioned in the Ilford primer that you were recommended, is a serviceable alternative. I didn't even use one of those until I acquired one to use with bulk film loading in the late 1960's. I just dived under the bedclothes at night. Hot, cramped but it worked.
One item not explicitly mentioned is a thermometer; perhaps it was too obvious.
My introduction to the darkroom side of photography was via contact printing; my first attempts were made using a 1/6d packet of hypo crystals and a 1/3d packet of developer. On the basis of a fluid ounce of water weighing an ounce, I weighed the water, rather than using a measuring cylinder. My developing dish was an old saucer, and my printing frame was a sheet of glass from an old photo frame. (For those not familiar with real British money, 1/6d is about 7.5p, which was about the price of a quarter of a gallon of petrol in those days.)
In all the years I have been developing films, I have only had 2 failures, and one was the very first film, because I did not manage to load the film onto the spiral correctly. I certainly recommend wasting an unexposed film in making sure that you are confident in the loading before committing to a valuable film.
Stephen
OP
OP
Looking for inspirating in Beginnings. Oh my, hasn't water gone under the bridge since these posts back in 2004! Flotsam was still with us and larger than life Aggie was around and "we" (Apuggers and I) were building my first darkroom.
I had my own darkroom when I was 15. I always invited the pretty girls for a tour. My motto then was -- 'lots of things develop in a darkroom.'
Colored lights can hypnotize....
I'm 32 now.. Oh well, some things never change.
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