X-ray Film question

[Andrew O'Neill]

Jim Fitzgerald recommends leaving both emulsions on, and not stripping off the second emulsion to maintain density for carbon transfers. He tested extensively and found that removing the back emulsion resulted in not enough negative density for proper printing.

Um... I believe that were me. Jim's never done it. From LFPF, X-ray Film Example thread, page 36, Jim says,

never seen the need to do the stripping. Never done it and my images print just fine. KISS is how I work.

It literally cuts the DR in half. No matter how much longer I extended the development time of, it still was no where good enough for carbon printing.

 

[Jim Noel]

How about D23? With only metol it's pretty soft working.

D-23 works beautifully with or without a water bath approach.

 

[Fr. Mark]

Ektascan BR/A has an antihalation layer and is single sided. And can be very sharp. I use Pyrocat HD 2:2:100 in trays but I'm printing with Dr. Mike Ware's New Cyanotype chemistry. These negatives look rather more dense than HP5+ in D76 but print well using fluorescent tube UV exposure unit 6 bulbs about 4-6 minutes full tonal range: darkest Prussian blue to paper base. Another thing about X-ray film is that your light meter may fool you. Incandescent light will need more exposure early or late in the day out doors will need more exposure. This is because the film is not very sensitive. Red LEDs at a suitable distance can make great safelights for working with this film. Rodinal 1:100 is also a common developer. Both are inexpensive and you use them one shot which is great. They also have long shelf life. Ektascan also comes in 14x17 which efficiently cuts to whole plate or 5x7.

 

[Fr. Mark]

Double post, sorry