Will this work for darkroom sink?

[Christophoto]

I'm planning my first darkroom, and budget is a factor. I'm thinking a good way to go would be to build a basic workbench and then make a "sink" on top of it. Basically I'm thinking just a flat sheet of plastic with some 4" high walls around the sides. It won't have a drain or be handling running water, it's purely just to catch whatever is spilled from the trays. I'm not sure what if any plastics would react negatively to typical darkroom chems. Would a basic cheap plastic like this link work fine? Any better ideas short of buying an expensive sink?

http://m.homedepot.com/p/1-16-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Plastic-Panel-63003/202090190

 

[adelorenzo]

In my first darkroom I bought a large, shallow plastic tray from my local auto parts store. Put it on top of a work bench and then set my chemical trays in it. Worked great and cost about 30 bucks.

Something like this for example: https://www.amazon.ca/Scepter-06951-Black-Large-Drip/dp/B0083LEZYA

 

[frank]

There are also large and shallow plastic trays sold for under-bed storage.

 

[resummerfield]

In my first darkroom, I placed 2x4 lumber around the perimeter of my work area, and lined it with construction plastic. This contained all spills and was easy to set-up and take down.

If you are planning to build a basic workbench, why not build a small “lip” around the perimeter of the top to catch spills. Then caulk the joints, and paint the top with some waterproof paint (or maybe an epoxy paint).Or just line it with plastic sheeting.

 

[choiliefan]

I would not buy the home depot product. I bought what I believe is the same thing for another project and found that it is very brittle plastic. You need something more supple and forgiving... 1/16" is very thin.

 

[frank]

I would not buy the home depot product. I bought what I believe is the same thing for another project and found that it is very brittle plastic. You need something more supple and forgiving... 1/16" is very thin.

It needs to be glued onto plywood. It's a surface treatment, not structural.

 

[bsdunek]

I know of no B&W chemicals that would hurt most plastics. The comment that it's kind of thin is true, unless you just use it as a liner. My surface is just good plywood with the joints caulked and several coats of spar varnish applied. Been about 12 years and no sign of deterioration.

 

[ac12]

1/16 inch is real thin. That thickness it should be glued to the table top, or it WILL crack when you move it.

For a sink type of setup, I would use at least 1/4 inch plexi. And even then it needs to be properly supported.
The larger your sink, the more it will need a permanent structural support under it to prevent flexing and cracking when you lift it. The sides will be cemented to the bottom, so when the sink flexes, it is the sides or the joint that will probably crack.
Go to TAP PLASTIC for sheet plexiglass.

IF you are neat, you can get away without a large catch tray/sink. For years I used a bare formica counter, with a small sink at the end. I was very careful about spills and when moving prints from one tray to the next.

 

[John Koehrer]

I like adelorenzo's option $15.00 no work. not brittle and very likely abs.

 

[Christophoto]

Good points guys, I'm glad I asked. I have a much better idea of how to contain spills, now I just need to decide if I really want to build a big heavy workbench in a spare upstairs bedroom or if I can make something else work.

 

[mshchem]

These are 15 bucks at Home depot, you can fit them with a drain fitting (I would not do this). These will sit on top of a bench, 28 x 30 inches. Buy 3 of them and you will have a easy to clean surface. They are thermoformed ABS. They will nest so you can clean up and put them away. Oatey Washer pans they catch leaky washing machines, I really would avoid the plastic panels, brittle, junk. ABS is used for refrigerator liners etc. Have good chemical resistance to darkroom solutions. Anything made for an automotive application will be resistant to everything and will be very durable. The Big Box stores also sell big plastic pans for mixing cement but to me they are to deep and awkward. Best Mike

 

[Christophoto]

Good call on the pans, definitely easier, thanks. Now I just need to make up my mind if I'm going to build a heavy wood workbench to hold a couple trays or if there's a simpler option lol.

 

[ac12]

Depending where in the house and the setup, a 5 or 6 foot folding work table would do fine for a temporary setup.

 

[MattKing]

Depending where in the house and the setup, a 5 or 6 foot folding work table would do fine for a temporary setup.

And if you use one of the ones that you can adjust the height on, it is even better.
A 4 foot version: http://www.costco.ca/Lifetime®-121....n-Half-Adjustable-Table.product.10367949.html

 

[Old_Dick]

You can find cheap/free counter tops on CL. Something else http://hydrobuilder.com/active-aqua-low-rise-flood-table-2-x4.html?dzid=strands_AALR24B

 

[btaylor]

My sink uses the plastic underlayment for a tile shower from Home Depot. My handy guy suggested it. 1/2" plywood panel for the bottom, a couple of 2x4's along the edges, then lay down the flexible plastic. He put in a shower drain on one end, and the plumbing is just bolted to the wall. Simple, cheap.

 

[Kilgallb]

I made a wooden sink and panted it with bathtub refinishing paint. It is epoxy based and costs about $30.

 

[Wade D]

I also made my 1st sink out of wood and finished it with several coats of white epoxy-based paint. Half inch plywood for the bottom and 1"x6" pine for the sides. It never leaked a drop.

 

[Craig]

I built a plywood box the size I wanted, and then bought a 4'x8' sheet of ABS from a local plastics supply house. I cut the plastic to the size I wanted with my table saw, cut 4" high side pieces and then used silicone to attach the pieces together. It's the same stuff that is used for building aquariums. I used Dow Corning 786.

I cut a circular hole in one end of the bottom sheet and put in a shower drain fitting. It is also siliconed to the ABS, and then that gave me a convenient connection to conventional ABS 1-1/2" drain pipe to tie into my house drain.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I hope you solvent-welded the ABS joints first !

 

[Craig]

I hope you solvent-welded the ABS joints first !

Yes I did. And then they promptly broke the first time I ran warm water over the ABS and it expanded, but the silicone held fast.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Was your glue joint precisely square and linear, with the glaze sanded off first? Otherwise, besides marine silicones there are marine polyurethane
caulks, and a clear "kraton" roofing polymer called Geocel Proflex, nice because you can buy it either in caulking version or a more fluid brushable
version (but it stinks for about a week). I personally opted for heat-welded polypropylene sheeting, which is chemically inert and not gluable at all. But I have made numerous sink accessories out of various plastics, including ABS, acrylic, polycarbonate, and phenolic.

 

[Craig]

Was your glue joint precisely square and linear, with the glaze sanded off first?

Yes, it was. I used the same techniques I used for building aquariums, with corner clamps etc. It's not leaking, and the plastic is fully supported by the plywood box, so the joints are not taking any load; they just need to be fluid tight and they are.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Whatever works. I just can't picture ABS popping unless there is something wrong with the glue. If it's too thin, it gets brittle in extreme cold, and is certainly more subject to expansion/contraction stresses than thick cellular-core ABS. Guess you were using it simply as a liner.

 

[paul ron]

only as a drip tray?....

http://www.gardeners.com/buy/large-...-plaid^115067178998-sku^30@ADL4144-adType^PLA