The best quality prints are obtained by development for 1 1/2 to 2 minutes at a temperature of 68F (20C). Always keep the temperature of the developer uniform. Variations in temperature require corresponding changes in exposure, this introduces an unnecessary variable factor in to the system; as a result, you waste time and material.
The best way to control the temperature of a print-developing bath is to place the processing tray in a water bath maintained at about 70F (21C). The developer in the tray will then remain at 68F (20C), provided that the room temperature is normal. --Kodak "Professional Printing in Black and White"
Is there a reason why there is not a “time-temperature table” for b&w paper like there is for b&w film?
The time temp table for b&w film does not list type of developer or film, so the table was developed without those two variables factored in?
I know that paper is developed while you can see it progress under safelight, but would it not be handy to know if the developer temp dropped how much longer you should develop it for?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Todd
This makes a great deal of good common sense . I adjust the developer temperature to 68 to 70 F. When I use a standard developer like Dektol 1&2 or Bromophen 1&3 I develop for a minimum of 2 minutes. I always use a timer. I have used 3 minutes too. Too many inexperienced workers pull the print too soon, overexposed and underdeveloped.At least when I learned (70+ years ago) paper was always developed until there was no more change. Density was controlled by exposure. I still do it that way, and, my results are good. No reason for a time/temp table.
There aren't any of these left - at least not the true ones, which were better described as activation papers.With RC, what about developer-incorporated papers?
There aren't any of these left - at least not the true ones, which were better described as activation papers.
Any developer that is currently incorporated is miniscule in comparison, and is there to fine tune the paper's contrast and speed performance.
For resin coated I never give less than 1.5 minutes and for fibre based 3 min is my normal (at 20c/68f). Modern developers do not stain like those when I started out with photography, when you stuck rigidly with the times suggested by the makers.
Regardless of what Simon said, you can test for yourself.
Fog some Ilford paper. (I used MGIV.) Put a drop of Sodium Hydroxide on the paper. It will darken due to development. This shows that some level of incorporated developing agent is present for whatever reason.
PE
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