Why don't they make flash with auto mode that uses a sensor on the flash any more.

[Chan Tran]

If you have a film camera and it doesn't support TTL the most convenient kind of flash to use is one that has an auto mode that uses the sensor on the flash. You can buy old flashes that have this feature and cheap but if you want a new one you're out of luck. Cheap new flashes like the Godox or Younguo are quite good except that they don't have this feature. The only new flash I found that has this feature is the Nikon SB-5000 which is way too expensive to buy if you have something like a Pentax KX or Nikon FM etc..

 

[BrianShaw]

That situation seems short-sighted to me. Backward compatibility seems useful. Perhaps they have marketing information that indicates otherwise???

 

[xkaes]

There may be some out there, just hard to find -- and adapters won't solve the "problem" because the new flashes simply don't have ON-FLASH auto-metering. The good news is that you can get GREAT old flashes -- with ON-FLASH auto-metering -- for about the cost of shipping. My Vivitar 283 flashes (I have several) are just as powerful as the NEW blow-torchs -- and they still work great!!! You can get them fir about $10 each.

 

[Chan Tran]

My Vivitar 283 flashes (I have several) are just as powerful as the NEW blow-torchs -- and they still work great!!! You can get them fir about $10 each.

Just as powerful? I think more powerful than just about any shoe mount flash today. (may be accept the Quantum and thay have the auto mode too but their price are up there). However, if someone wants a new one there is no choice. Also even if you use digital and those support TTL but if you have more than 1 brand you would have to buy more than 1 flash.

 

[xkaes]

You're right as far as I know. I've tested my 283 against the Minolta 5600 and Sony 5800, and the 283 IS a little more powerful. (oddly enough the Minolta 5600 was slightly more powerful than the Sony 5800, but the users manuals agree with my tests).

And you're right again about different camera brands only fully working with certain flashes -- a lot more complicated than the old days.

One of my pet peeves about modern flashes is that they often lack a manual-exposure mode. That's NUTS in my book!!!

 

[4season]

If you have a film camera and it doesn't support TTL the most convenient kind of flash to use is one that has an auto mode that uses the sensor on the flash. You can buy old flashes that have this feature and cheap but if you want a new one you're out of luck. Cheap new flashes like the Godox or Younguo are quite good except that they don't have this feature. The only new flash I found that has this feature is the Nikon SB-5000 which is way too expensive to buy if you have something like a Pentax KX or Nikon FM etc..

I think they are still available if you avoid models dedicated to specific camera systems. Godox's Lux retro-styled units, for example.

 

[wiltw]

It seems that fewer and fewer photographers understand the Guide Number concept, so manual flash was likely eliminated simply due to too few folks understanding how to use that mode....kinda like the progressive elimination of manual transmissions in automobiles being imported to the US.

And with most cameras sold today having digital sensors with built-in digital TTL flash metering, fewer and fewer folks use film cameras which use either film TTL or photosensor flash automation. It did not help that companies like Metz, supporting SCA-compatible flashes, first stopped making them and then went out of the flash business.

And then the buying public puts longtime flash vendors out of business, buying the bargain brands like Godox that do not offer the technical information or quality of user information and support...price before features drives buyers now.

 

[Nokton48]

Here's mine ready for further testing:

Sinar Norma 4x5 Handy Super BubbaPack HV Battery Handy Bubble Level by Nokton48, on Flickr

A Friend built me this "Super BubbaPack" high voltage rechargeable Battery, for my Vivitar 365 Flash Units. Recycles LIKE NOW, no delay. This fires automatic exposure thyristor out to SEVENTY FEET, good for any situation, really. Shown on my homemade Sinar Norma Handy. My latest embellishment on the Handy, is a modern Sinar Handy Bubble Level/Mirror Unit, attached atop the Mamiya 7 43mm Viewfinder. Useful for "Hail Mary" shots, not looking through the viewfinder. Initial test shooting coming up soon.

Latest embellishment is the "Photoflex Large XTC" Inflatable Softbox. My preferred way of diffusing specular flash when hand held shooting. Two are coming here new in packages.

 

[Chan Tran]

Here's mine ready for further testing:

Sinar Norma 4x5 Handy Super BubbaPack HV Battery Handy Bubble Level by Nokton48, on Flickr

A Friend built me this "Super BubbaPack" high voltage rechargeable Battery, for my Vivitar 365 Flash Units. Recycles LIKE NOW, no delay. This fires automatic exposure thyristor out to SEVENTY FEET, good for any situation, really. Shown on my homemade Sinar Norma Handy. My latest embellishment on the Handy, is a modern Sinar Handy Bubble Level/Mirror Unit, attached atop the Mamiya 7 43mm Viewfinder. Useful for "Hail Mary" shots, not looking through the viewfinder. Initial test shooting coming up soon.

Here is mine! The camera is a digital. The short coming of the GN is that it only works for direct flash.

 

[Nokton48]

Here's another from over here:

SONY DSC by Nokton48, on Flickr

My CFV16 Hasselblad Fat Digital Back 36x36cm 60mm T* Distagon 500C/M 25th Anniversary P&F 200J Ringflash with Hasselblad Adapter. I used to use this Ringflash for Fashion Photography, back in the day. LOL. Now the CFV16 Digital Back gives me instant gratification. The Flash and Norman 200B pack (two packs actually) went to new York City Flash Clinic (sadly gone SNIFF). They Hot Rodded it to the Norman pack, everything needed adjusting by them, so the flashtube didn't "sparkle" after firing. This until runs off on 12V Dry Cell Batteries, trickle charged. I've replaced the batteries several times, just solder 'em right in. This works great and is an UBER HOOT to shoot with. Many more uses for this thing up ahead. Maybe buy some more cheap batteries, they are available on Amazon.

No thyristor but don't need one. Guide numbers and instant feedback are a delight to use.

 

[MattKing]

For the same reason that they (mostly) don't make new film cameras anymore - there are too many used ones out there at low prices.

 

[Buzz-01]

Years ago in the early 2000s I bought a super cheap YinYan flash off either eBay, Banggood or DealExtreme. Cost somewhere in the lower 20 dollars IIRC.
It was fairly decently made, a bit like most generic 1980s flashes, had an auto sensor and two aperture presets with a table printed on the back for different ISO/aperture combinations to go with those presets, plus full power Manual mode.
It worked surprisingly well and gave properly exposed images over and over again.

Then I bought a genuine Canon flash and this one became unused. So later I modified it with a potentiometer replacing the sensor and now it is fully manually adjustable and I can set it anywhere from 1/128 to 1/1 power for strobist use. Still works today.

I can't find them online for sale right now, but they are probably still around, perhaps even on Amazon.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I did not realize this! This is a great leap backwards. This is a good reason to keep my NIkon SB800.

 

[GRHazelton]

When a real concern when using an older flash with a sensor on the flash if your camera doesn't have a sensor is the trigger voltage, especially with cameras with internal electronic circuity. Here's a site which lists many flash units, their trigger voltages, and the voltage limits for many cameras:

Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages

www.botzilla.com

Note that some well regarded flashes have trigger voltages which could "fry" many current cameras.

 

[Buzz-01]

When a real concern when using an older flash with a sensor on the flash if your camera doesn't have a sensor is the trigger voltage, especially with cameras with internal electronic circuity. Here's a site which lists many flash units, their trigger voltages, and the voltage limits for many cameras:

Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages

www.botzilla.com

Note that some well regarded flashes have trigger voltages which could "fry" many current cameras.

That was exactly the reason to buy the cheap flash, as I did already have a Metz hammerhead which measured 300V at its contacts and would definitely fry my just purchased DSLR...

 

[Chan Tran]

Years ago in the early 2000s I bought a super cheap YinYan flash off either eBay, Banggood or DealExtreme. Cost somewhere in the lower 20 dollars IIRC.
It was fairly decently made, a bit like most generic 1980s flashes, had an auto sensor and two aperture presets with a table printed on the back for different ISO/aperture combinations to go with those presets, plus full power Manual mode.
It worked surprisingly well and gave properly exposed images over and over again.

Then I bought a genuine Canon flash and this one became unused. So later I modified it with a potentiometer replacing the sensor and now it is fully manually adjustable and I can set it anywhere from 1/128 to 1/1 power for strobist use. Still works today.

I can't find them online for sale right now, but they are probably still around, perhaps even on Amazon.

In fact today most flashes do have adjustable manual power down to 1/64th or so and in 1/3 stop increment which is a rare thing back in the old days.

 

[Chan Tran]

I did not realize this! This is a great leap backwards. This is a good reason to keep my NIkon SB800.

There is a lot of reasons to keep your SB-800. It's the flash that is compatible to all 3 types of Nikon TTL cameras. It's the most powerful Nikon flash unit. Newer ones like SB-900, SB-910 and SB-5000 have a bit less power and not compatible with d-TTL or film camrera TTL.

 

[Dali]

I use a Braun 340 for film and sometimes digital. The table at the back is way easier to understand than Vivitar or Sunpak dials as apertures (f/4 or f/8) remain the same regardless the film sensitivity.

 

[Richard Man]

Someone already mentions the Godox retro series. They work well and look pretty cool.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

There may be some out there, just hard to find -- and adapters won't solve the "problem" because the new flashes simply don't have ON-FLASH auto-metering. The good news is that you can get GREAT old flashes -- with ON-FLASH auto-metering -- for about the cost of shipping. My Vivitar 283 flashes (I have several) are just as powerful as the NEW blow-torchs -- and they still work great!!! You can get them fir about $10 each.

They also have a trigger voltage high enough to fry just about any camera; use radio triggered only!

 

[Chan Tran]

Someone already mentions the Godox retro series. They work well and look pretty cool.

Petty low in power GN25 in meter. Need accessories sensor to work in auto mode. Not a hot shoe mount. Watch a couple of reviews on Youtube and both guide used it in manual mode only. The TTL module isn't yet available and neither guys had the auto sensor.
One thing to note that variable power manual mode is something almost all new flash units have.

 

[ic-racer]

Sure I have a box of broken flashes that don't warrent repair or capacitor replacement. But I do still have more that still work. For example my Sunpak (with thyristor and auto sensor) that I got in 1978 still works fine. Plus many others.

 

[Chan Tran]

I just found this statement in the Metz 45-CL4 manual. If they base the exposure on average subject reflectance of 25% then it's about half a stop less light is needed compared to our normal 18% reflectance

 

[Chan Tran]

Watched a few Youtube videos of guys talking about flash. Several of them just bypass the automode. If the flash doesn't work on TTL they would use it in manual so I I guess many now do not know what the auto mode is about.

 

[BrianShaw]

That works. The A mode is about convenience and quickness. If that isn’t in their requirements, that’s fine. For me, convenience and quickness is important. For flash exposure accuracy, I still prefer a flash meter.