Which MF camera?

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RalphLambrecht

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Hi everyone,
I would like to step up to MF. I'm okay to spend up to USD500 (complete with a standard lens and film back) on a 66, 645 or 67. My requirements are that they should not be difficult or expensive to repair and spare parts readily available. Thank you for your replies.
Blessed day!
not possible; triple your budget and get a Hasselblad500 body.
 

film_man

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Not true at all. The Pentax 6x7 / 67 cameras readily repairable by a competent service person who has worked on medium format cameras, some overhauling them to as-new condition. As with all medium format cameras available now, new parts are often taken from like-bodies during repairs. This introduces a cycle of redundancy and does not eliminate unreliability over time.

Well that though is subject to a repairer happening to have a compatible dead body around that died from something else which may or may not be the case. Some bits they can replace with standard parts, some bits are specific for that model so it really depends on what breaks. In my case it was the winding mechanism of the 6x7. I was told that was not repairable in the UK and that was from 3 places I asked. Maybe you know of someone in the US that can fix that particular fault for that model.
 
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ANCS

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I have owned both Hasselblads and Bronicas.

Bronicas deliver the same results for less money, with fewer quirks, and better ergonomics. In terms of MF SLR systems, Bronicas offer a great performance:cost ratio.

That said, the Hasselblad system is more extensive, allowing access to unusual camera bodies (e.g., Flexbody) and lenses (e.g., 110mm f/2 lens is the best MF lens I've ever owned). Hasselblads also have a classic and more timeless aesthetic, which may be more important to some users.

Thanks. Good to hear that the Bronica is as good as the Hasselblad:smile:
 
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ANCS

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First decide on a format. Then you have to beware that $500 on a medium format camera may mean one that will need a service pretty soon, ie another $100-200 just for a normal service. On the other hand, my experience with repairs is that they all pretty much cost the same nowadays.

For $500 you can easily get a very good condition one of those:
Mamiya RB67 ProS or ProSD (don't bother with the plain Pro)
Mamiya C330S (latest model)
Bronica SQAi/SQB
Bronica ETRSi (latest)

These are all great cameras, the SQB was my first medium format camera.

You could probably find a beat up Hasselblad 500C or 500CM but up to you to decide if you want to spring another $150 or so for a service. It would be easier to find a 500ELX body (they seem to go for less). These actually handle better (in my books at least) but make sure it takes AA batteries or get one of those 9V/2CRP adapters.

I would advise against getting an old Pentax 6x7 as that is now impossible to repair (I had one). If you can find a 67 though for $500 maybe that would be a good one. There's also the Mamiya 645 stuff which is great (the manual focus ones, not the AF ones obviously).

You can get some other stuff like folders or some Russian stuff but I would not consider them as a first "step up" camera.

My choice would be a Mamiya RB67 ProSD with a 90KL lens. That is a step up in everything, quality, wow factor when you look at the finder, WOWOHMYGOD factor when you get the negs/photos from the lab and obviously a massive step up in size and weight :D

Thanks, Film Man. I'll be sure to read up about the Hasselblad ELX and the Mamiya 645.
 
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ANCS

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Are you left handed or right handed?
I ask the question, not because the answer is determinative of the answer to your question, but because it illustrates an important point.
I am left handed, and I have reduced dexterity in my right hand. My three main MF cameras (yes I have too many cameras) all work well for me. The important point is that ergonomics are really important to the results you obtain and the enjoyment you get from your camera
In my case, I own and regularly use and can recommend the following three systems:
1) a Mamiya C330. I have owned this camera since I bought it from the store I was working in in the late 1970s - it was the store demonstrator. At one time I had multiple lenses, a backup C220 body and many accessories, and used it for wedding photography. It has been durable and there has never been a problem with the bellows, which I expect to last for decades more. I have streamlined my set - I'm down to the single C330 body, two lenses, two finders, a left hand trigger grip and two paramenders;
2) a Mamiya 645 Pro. I have owned a couple of different bodies in this series since about 2005. I use and appreciate the changeable film backs and really like the wide variety of lenses and accessories available. I currently own one body, five lenses, a left hand grip, an AE finder, a WL finder, a power winder, and several backs and inserts;
3) a Mamiya RB67 Pro-S. I have owned a couple of different bodies in this series since about 2010. I use and appreciate the changeable film backs and really like the wide variety of lenses and accessories available. I currently own one body, four lenses, a left hand grip (same as the one for the C330), a WL finder and several backs and inserts. There is a bellows in this camera as well, and it too is very durable.
In each case, the usability of these cameras (for me) is greatly aided by the availability of the left hand grip I have.
I hope my perspective assists you, but I'd suggest that it is your own personal needs and affinities that are most important.

Thanks Matt, I'm right handed. I have just read a couple of reviews on the C330 as suggested by a contributor earlier. Yes, your suggestions did help:smile:
 
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ANCS

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Okay, I'll be honest. I could not keep up with the overwhelming contributions. Doesn't help when I'm a slow reader. So, I'll just read them at convenient times. If I do not reply, please forgive me. Thank you everyone for your generous information:smile:
 

Sirius Glass

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Well... What do you do with your photographs? Do you actually print them? Or do you just scan your negatives?

Because if you actually print them, before stepping up to another format you should consider if the rest of your gear is ready for the step-up. Most enlargers that print 135 and 120 film can't print 6x7, so you will also have to change the enlarger. Accessories to convert a 135 elarger to 120 are not always easy to find by the way.

Perhaps if you explain more in detail what you have in mind to do, you would get more sensible replies rather than a full list of all the equipment affordable worldwide with your budget.

I print my negatives.

[In case I break down and buy a 6x7 or 6x9.] That is why I have a 4"x5" enlarger.
 

Dan Daniel

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Okay, I'll be honest. I could not keep up with the overwhelming contributions. Doesn't help when I'm a slow reader. So, I'll just read them at convenient times. If I do not reply, please forgive me. Thank you everyone for your generous information:smile:

Not expected, especially on topics like this which quickly diverge from providing helpful information to being about matters of religion.

By the way, you can quote more than one comment in a reply. Hit 'Reply with Quote,' edit as needed, write your reply, then go to another comment, hit 'Reply with Quote,' and the new quoted section will be added to your present reply.
 
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Well that though is subject to a repairer happening to have a compatible dead body around that died from something else which may or may not be the case. Some bits they can replace with standard parts, some bits are specific for that model so it really depends on what breaks. In my case it was the winding mechanism of the 6x7. I was told that was not repairable in the UK and that was from 3 places I asked. Maybe you know of someone in the US that can fix that particular fault for that model.

Eric Hendrickson at pentaxs.com . Eric repairs a wide variety of old MF cameras, not just the Pentax 6x7 / 67.
 

jim10219

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A 2x3 press camera with a roll film adapter would be easy to repair by most any comment tech. They’re also fairly cheap compared to a lot of other MF cameras. I have a Busch Pressman that I shoot as a 6x9 with a rangefinder. I’ve done a couple of repairs to it myself, so it’s never been into a shop.

I also have a Mamiya C220. That’s a great little TLR. I imagine it would be more difficult and expensive to repair, but I haven’t had to repair it yet. It’s heavy, but really well made. Lenses are pretty cheap for it too. It’s definitely a good budget conscious choice!

I also have a Mamiya RB67. It’s a great SLR that’s not too costly. The only repair it’s needed was the foam seals replaced, which I also did myself. It’s built like a tank, but weighs almost as much. Still, the accessories and lenses for that system are nice. If you can deal with the weight, they’re a great system. But I don’t use it that much because if I’m going to be lugging around something that heavy, I usually bring one of my large formats.

I used to have a Hasselblad 500c. I sold it because it was constantly in need of repairs. You can’t easily work on them yourself, and they’re overcomplicated in design. They’re small and light weight and don’t require you to cock the shutter and advance the film separately, but all of that precision and automation comes at a price. That’s why they sell a tool specially made to unjam them. The last time it broke on me, I sent it in to two repair guys, and both told me it was too old to be worth repairing. They’d have to buy and gut out another 500c for parts, and since the camera was aver 60 years old, even the replacement parts would likely be worn. They recommended I buy a newer body, since it would cost about the same. I just sold it for parts instead. I understand many other people have not had the same experience as me, but going through all of that put a bad taste in my mouth.
 

RichardJack

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Having used almost all of the MF cameras on the market I would recommend a Bronica SQ-A. You will get the most bang for the buck. There are plenty of them out there and you have lots of lens and accessory options at reasonable prices.
 

miha

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Hi everyone,
I would like to step up to MF. I'm okay to spend up to USD500 (complete with a standard lens and film back) on a 66, 645 or 67. My requirements are that they should not be difficult or expensive to repair and spare parts readily available. Thank you for your replies.
Blessed day!

Get a Mamiya C330.
 

MattKing

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Yeah, but lenses for the things are as hard to find as hen's teeth! :D
I actually played around with a pinhole lens cap on a Mamiya RB67 lens. It didn't give me much more than a very blurry but otherwise normal result.
 

Sirius Glass

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I have done some pinhole photography and even made color prints. I would rather shoot through a good piece of glass.
 

Alan Gales

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I actually played around with a pinhole lens cap on a Mamiya RB67 lens. It didn't give me much more than a very blurry but otherwise normal result.

I've never tried pinhole myself. I have seen some great images done with pinhole and a lot of bad ones. Of course I could say the same about photo's taken with lenses. Some of them were even mine! :D

I guess what they say is true. If you never make bad images it's because you aren't taking pictures. I don't mind my bad ones because I know I made a mistake. I just hate the boring ones. They were usually taken because I was stupid. :whistling:
 
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Sirius Glass

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Enough about pinhole photography and get back on topic, Medium Format Cameras.
 

jgoody

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I think the question for the original poster is what are you shooting with now and what do you like or dislike about it? For MF at present I have a Minolta Autocord -- it's a Japanese TLR which are available at well below you budget. Are you OK with looking down at the viewfinder? Do you want interchangeable lenses? Do you want a rangefinder camera? How heavy is too heavy? The one great advantage of most TLRs (not counting the Mamiya C220 and C330) is the lighter weight, the downside is that you cannot change lenses. The other advantage of all TLRs and rangefinder cameras (as opposed to SLRs) is the lack of mirror slap which in MF is quite a bit more noticeable than in a 35mm SLR (where it isn't really an issue). You need to hold a few cameras and hopefully shoot them to see how you view and focus, and to experience the mirror slap (if it's an SLR).
 

Sirius Glass

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I think the question for the original poster is what are you shooting with now and what do you like or dislike about it? For MF at present I have a Minolta Autocord -- it's a Japanese TLR which are available at well below you budget. Are you OK with looking down at the viewfinder? Do you want interchangeable lenses? Do you want a rangefinder camera? How heavy is too heavy? The one great advantage of most TLRs (not counting the Mamiya C220 and C330) is the lighter weight, the downside is that you cannot change lenses. The other advantage of all TLRs and rangefinder cameras (as opposed to SLRs) is the lack of mirror slap which in MF is quite a bit more noticeable than in a 35mm SLR (where it isn't really an issue). You need to hold a few cameras and hopefully shoot them to see how you view and focus, and to experience the mirror slap (if it's an SLR).

Forget mirror slap. That is a fiction from the rangefinder people who are jealous that MF SLR photographers can see what they will get. One viewing of this will put that crap to rest.

Now the rest of your statements are spot on. What does the OP want? One needs to start with requirements. Plus as you wisely stated, it does not matter what anyone other than the OP thinks, what matters is how does the camera feel in the OP's hands.
 

jgoody

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I certainly see none of the dreaded mirror slap on that Hasselblad. Does anyone who has a Pentax 67 want to weigh in? I've always wanted one but was afraid of the "slap" - perhaps I was misinformed (to quote Casablanca).
 
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