Which camera and format to invest in?

[CGW]

Don't buy a relic. Get the newest model available that fits your needs. Ironically, very capable bodies like the Nikon N90s--superb as a manual focus camera--are dirt cheap now.

 

[Stoogley]

Why not just get another Nikkormat FTn? You are already familiar with it and seem to like it.
Plus they are cheap.

I'd venture guess that it's about 1/2 the weight of the N90.

 

[Les Sarile]

The camera would be around my neck almost every single day and could go anywhere from the streets of Los Angeles to the snow covered Aspens. Keep in mind, I'm not asking for lens recommendations(unless it's a fixed lens system), just a body. I don't really care about weight, but SIZE is a factor. I don't want something the size of a cinderblock around my neck. Build quality is important. It'd also be nice if the lens mount could be easily adapted for use on the Canon EOS systems. A built-in meter would also be nice, but is not necessary. For example, right now I'm considering the Nikon F/F2 or even another Nikkormat. For now, lets just say my budget for a body is about $100.

I recently revised my reference - of cameras I currently own, that should give you a good idea of body size differences.

Click on link for full res -> Cameras by Year

The smallest being the Pentax MX (495g) followed by the Olympus OM's (490-520g) then the Nikon FM/FA/FE series (590-620g).

Depending on condition, most of these can be found for around your price.

Consider too that the Pentax M and Olympus lenses were made smaller and therefore would be lighter.

Olympus lenses (with adapter) and the Olympus VariMagnifinder can be used with the EOS.

 

[baachitraka]

You may also consider this too...

http://www.kenkoglobal.com/cameras.html

 

[guitstik]

It sounds like you would use a camera in various situations like climbing and street, in these situations I would suggest a fixed lens rangefinder or even something like a Bessa R that would allow you to change lenses. A fixed lens RFwould be compact enough and most are built like tanks. My Konica A2s is about as rugged as they get and still takes wonderful shot even after being in the wilds of Alaska. A Bessa R model would allow you to swap lenses but you would need an adapter to use them on a different body. The good thing about them is that you don't have to spend a ton of money on lenses as there are plenty of Russian made lenses that take beautiful shots. I have several Industar lenses that I use with mine and I use it for street photography. Just my $0.02

 

[edmyloo]

Went to a local camera show today and held a bunch of cameras. The Nikon F, Nikon F2, Leicaflex, and Nikkormats definitely felt superior in build quality compared to most of the other mechanical cameras such as the OM series, the Nikon FM2, the Spotmatics and other Pentax cameras and such. I'm probably not gonna go for the Leicaflex due to lack of lens and accessories compared to the Nikons. And price. The EOS-3 is pretty tempting too, and that'll definitely be taken into consideration even though I was originally looking for a full mechanical camera. I definitely underestimated the build quality and ergonomics of the EOS-3 and 1 series. But yea, my decision has pretty much been made up and I thank all you guys for the help! You know it's a great forum when you can get 3 pages worth of advice in only a day.

 

[Sirius Glass]

You can get a Nikon F100 or Nikon N90 body for around $100. Then you can use any Nikon slr lens ever made although some will be less automatic. Unlike Canon, Nikon never changed the lens mount, therefore you have a large selection of lenses and a great range of prices.

Steve

 

[BrianL]

Prices for the ETRS body and accessories is very inexpensive compared to similar quality 35mm cameras. Backs and other accessories including lenses are a complete bargain. A complete system including the speedgrip, back, body, metered prism and standard lens can be had in the $200+ plus range. There are several versions of the backs but none are expensive.

As for working with moving subjects, with the prism (metered or non-metered) and speedgrip the camera handles like a 35mm SLR so it has the same limitations and advantages. There is an advantage if using the 35mm back in that you can see the subject in the viewfinder before it is in the 35mm lines so ther eis a bit more advanced notice if a 1 eyed shooter. If using the 120/220 backs it is the same as the viewfinder in a 35mm camera. Using the waist level finder takes practice to get it right but it can be done. Remember it a lot of photos of moving objects were taken before the advent of the reflex mirror system in the main stream market. JUst takes a little practice. I used to shoot the ETRS with the wlf and my Rollieflex all the time at soccor matches and out in the field shooting wildlife.