Which 35mm reels are most foolproof?

[BrianShaw]

As said I started without any practice and never had issues.

You are not, perhaps, normal... in the statistical meaning of that word. Ha ha ha.

 

[AgX]

I rarely learned of people having trouble loading 35mm films into those Jobo reels.
But yes, one has to be normal in the meaning of having a left and a right hand, some people are said to have two left ones....

 

[AgX]

I have a set of Jobo reels that I find considerably easier to load than the paterson reels. They have a little notch on one of the reals, from the outside to the inside, so that if they bind up for whatever reason you can actually run your finger over the edges of the film, even wound all the way into the reel, and nudge it slightly or whatever to get it going again.

The first model of transparent reel only had one such recess, the second version two opposing recesses at both spirals.
Together with the reels being able to be twisted against each other, the idea was to form together with ones finger a kind of ratchet mechanism to feed the film into the reel, but not to be used in case the film got stuck.

 

[pentaxuser]

I've been browsing this forum (and elsewhere) a lot and saw all kinds of opinions, which are very mixed. ..

Take some comfort in the conclusion you have already reached above after such a short time here. I was here for many years before I realised this There is in fact a magic reel system that solves all your problems and you will know such a system when you see " there is only one reel to get.....

Seriously I use Jobo reels but did use Patersons on my nightschool course in 2003 and do have Dursts which all work fine . All worked fine. The practical suggestions you have been given about such things as cutting the corners of the the beginning of the film are all good The one thing I would add is that it is worth running a soft lead pencil such as a 4B or softer along the length of the plastic reel on both sides, The graphite in the pencil's lead does make the plastic more slippery and easier to load

pentaxuser

 

[mshchem]

I always remove the film from the cassette. A old type beer bottle opener will work to open cassettes, when I was younger I would just stick my thumb on to the upper lip of the light trap and bend the metal up.

Any plastic reel is MUCH easier to load if you trim a tiny snippet to round the corners of the leading edge of the film. No open sprocket holes

Hewes 35mm reels are a thing of beauty.

Don't use a changing bag unless you really have no other option.

I grew up with Paterson reels, no problem once you get it down.

 

[Buzz-01]

I almost always have difficulties with spooling a 36-frame 35mm film on my Paterson reel. It's the reel from my System 4 from the late '70s and the only reel I've ever used.
Usually all goes well until 3/4th of the film is spooled onto the reel. Then friction becomes more and more and I must be really careful not to get the "fingernail marks" cracked into the film.
It does help a lot when spooling the film painfully slow from that part on, like a few millimeters at a time, but still I find it difficult to spool them on in one try.

 

[Gabriel Aszalos]

[...] running a soft lead pencil such as a 4B or softer along the length of the plastic reel on both sides, The graphite in the pencil's lead does make the plastic more slippery and easier to load

I've seen this suggestion before but one thing was unclear - is this on the inside or the outside? Now that I ask it, it sounds stupid, probably obviously inside?

 

[AgX]

The idea is to dry-lubricate the slits the film strip is going to run through.

 

[Gabriel Aszalos]

How often do you apply the “pencil lubrication”?

 

[pentaxuser]

How often do you apply the “pencil lubrication”?

It depends on how many films you have loaded but just have a look at the insides of the reels If there is still signs of the graphite then you should be OK. If it gets sticky while you are loadjng and you cannot easily go past what may be a "sticky " spot where the graphite is missing then pull the film back out and place in in a light-tight box, switch on the lights and re-graphite the reel.

There are those here who have advised dismantling the cassette with a cassette opener and that may be helpful but all I would point out is that i have never had a problem with extracting the leader from the cassette and feeding it in from the undamaged cassette. The advantage here is that if your film sticks then it is easy in the dark to rewind it back into the cassette and once rewound there is no need for a light-tight box.

You could re-graphite the reel each time to be absolutely sure but i have never found this necessary.

pentaxuser

 

[Wallendo]

I use both, although I tend to primarily use Hewes reels for 35mm and plastic for 120 (although many others due the opposite). It is helpful to get to know how to use both techniques for cases where you have trouble loading with a particular reel.
I once was unable to load a role of Efke film on my Patterson reel and had to switch over to metal.
I also tend to use a Patterson tank on the rare occasions when I develop color film, as the chemicals can be poured in and out much faster than the metal tanks. This is particularly helpful when developing times are short.

 

[NB23]

Hews SS reels. Never buy used reels. Never buy cheap reels. I bought 4 Hews reels 20 years ago and they still work like new...thats at least 300 rolls per reel. I struggled with cheap reels, tried plastic reels (disaster for me), and then I purchased a Hewes reels; like a light from heaven it was.

Hewes are the best! Thick, high quality.
I go through 300-500 films a year ad every time I use hewes reels out of the bunch of reels i own (8 out of 14), I smile. Every time. Truly a joy

 

[guangong]

I admire those able to flawlessly load steel reels using hands only. I never had such success with hands only. Since 1970 I have used a steel gadget that clips onto center of reel with feeder chute that guides film into reel. For 120 I successfully use a chute that fits into palm of hands. I occasionally use both Paterson and Jobo ( with annoying plastic stops that must be moved to allow film to slide) when everything is absolutely dry.
Can’t give brand names of gadgets because not at home.

 

[JWMster]

I've used Patterson, Hewes, Arista and Jobo. Mostly I use Jobo these days because it works in their tanks... and the tank drives the reel choice. However, if you want the absolute easiest reel even an all-thumbs guy like me could load flawlessly as a beginner using a Patterson tank, then without a doubt (IMHO), the Arista Premium are the easiest. Screwing up is an option, but you have to work really hard at it with these:

Those loading flanges.... wow.

If you or anyone out there wanna buy my Hewes reels and Nikkon tanks... and do me the favor of moving unused equip out of my basement... private message me. Will send wherever for $'s to cover postage + packaging + a bag of coffee. Bought the Hewes reels new. Used once... and said "Not for me. Good for somebody else." Tanks to follow. Let me know.

 

[mshchem]

How often do you apply the “pencil lubrication”?

This is my video. These are toy night vision goggles. I can load anything.

 

[darkroommike]

I've been browsing this forum (and elsewhere) a lot and saw all kinds of opinions, which are very mixed. I recently started developing film at home and bought the classical 2-Reel Universal Paterson Tank. I started practicing with the reels and noticed that sometimes they create difficulties. Yes, they were bone dry, brand new. I honestly think I have the technique down very well. When I did my first development I noticed that Ilford Delta 400 film I had went on suuuuper smoothly but the Kodak T-Max 400 started to become more difficult as I was getting further. This brought back some bad memories of failure from a previous attempt further down the line.

Bottom line is... I don't want to take any risks. I value my photos and wouldn't want to ruin a film and lose them. Pulling film out of the Paterson reel can be done with a lot of care but isn't fun. So, I've ordered 2 x 35mm Hewes reels for my Paterson tank which are on the way with FedEx. Are these so much better? Are they foolproof? I read some reviews on B&H (and even here) that some people had trouble with these: basically film rolling on top of another (touching) and losing those shots.

What are some opinions here? Are the Hewes reels better? Is it hard to go wrong with them once you practice enough (in daylight obviously). Is there any technique to check if the film is wound onto the reel correctly? I wouldn't want film overlapping each other and losing shots. Sounds a bit like a nightmare to me. If that can happen so easily, even the Paterson plastic ones sound safer.

If it makes any difference: I plan to develop around 1 roll a week most weeks, and I did read the posts with people saying that they've been using Paterson plastic reels for decades without issues. Even my most trusted and appreciated lab says that they are using Paterson plastic reels in their work. It might be that not all reels are made perfect...

P.S. This is my first post. Thank you in advance and glad to join this lovely community, hoping to learn a lot...

• Practice with films that are not essential.
• I've never had any trouble getting films OFF Paterson reels but have had occasional loading issues. Usually when helping students load films they tore up getting said films out of their cameras.
• Hewes reels are very good but the ones made to fit Paterson and Jobo tanks are spending.

The universe has an overabundance of fools (no offense I don't think you are asking foolish questions), no such thing as foolproof. No reel design can anticipate ever possible problem.

 

[JWMster]

mshchem speaks the truth. I'm using a pair of these nightgoggles to load 4X5 with my "all thumbs" approach, and it works flawlessly. Might be overkill for 35mm and 120... but I won't say it doesn't help 'cause it definitely does. Use a dark closet for a spacious place to load your reels, and do it at night. I stand a piece of foam posterboard to close light from coming through the bottom of the door, and a shower curtain hung on a tension rod to help block any stray light through the rest. Loading reels in a changing bag can be done, but it isn't the easiest thing for a beginner. Stress and humidity can build the moisture in a changing bag faster than you think and ultimately ruin the film. Everyone struggles initially. I used to fight world war 3 trying to load reels. Today.... some of us still struggle from time to time ... because it's a class struggle holdover thing ("Free the radical photographers and their Hassy's!") lingering over a cup of 1960s Maxwell House and resisting every subsequent decade let alone the improvements in coffee? Yeah...? Maybe? Maybe not. Practice is a good thing. Focus is another. Per Darkroommike, leave the foolish things to fools like me so you can go ahead and do the wise stuff... whatever that is. (That's my Covid19 Rozanne Rosanna Bandanna)

 

[tezzasmall]

This is my video. These are toy night vision goggles. I can load anything.

Wow! I didn't realise you could so much with them. I might invest in a pair.

I'm okay (just about) with 35mm, after all these years but I still have occasional problems with 120. I'm also hoping to delve into 5 x 4 and even 10 x 8 film, with a pinhole camera, this year, so they might be of help.

I think someone mentioned it on here or somewhere else recently, but I would NOT chance trying to get TWO 35mm films, back to back, on one reel. I'd recommend either using two reels in a tank or one reel at a time, if you have a smaller tank like mine.

Just remember that it's all part of the fun of our hobby / profession.

Terry S

 

[Sirius Glass]

I rarely learned of people having trouble loading 35mm films into those Jobo reels.
But yes, one has to be normal in the meaning of having a left and a right hand, some people are said to have two left ones....

Hey, cut out the anti-left-hand bias!

 

[AgX]

It was a pun based on German, that likely does not read well in Englisch.

 

[Jojje]

I've found the more used my Paterson reels are, the smoother their operation gets. I always have a spare one in darkroom if one starts giving trouble and after use I rinse them very carefully. My reels are so old I know most of them by sight: "this one is best for 35mm and those for 120 film".

 

[miha]

Hey, cut out the anti-left-hand bias!

Having two left hands means one is either incompetent or plain lazy. But it means ths same in your culture - I googled
Btw, I'm left handed.

 

[hired goon]

Really, any and all of them work fine. Some people love the Hewes, and those work well too, unless you happen to tear out a perf, and can’t latch it in...then you’re fumbling until you get it to hold with only the opposite perf. I find they’re all about equal once you get used to them.

 

[MattKing]

There

I almost always have difficulties with spooling a 36-frame 35mm film on my Paterson reel. It's the reel from my System 4 from the late '70s and the only reel I've ever used.

There is at least a possibility that a nearly 50 year old reel might exhibit some issues that a newer one would not .
And vice versa.
If the reels are damp or are dirty, have a residue on them or for any reason aren't smooth, it is much more likely that the film will stick to them.
All that being said though, once in a while the only rational explanation for a recalcitrant film and reel is that they have been hexed!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Having two left hands means one is either incompetent or plain lazy. But it means ths same in your culture - I googled
Btw, I'm left handed.

Left handed people are the only ones in their right mind.