Which 35mm reels are most foolproof?

I've been browsing this forum (and elsewhere) a lot and saw all kinds of opinions, which are very mixed. I recently started developing film at home and bought the classical 2-Reel Universal Paterson Tank. I started practicing with the reels and noticed that sometimes they create difficulties. Yes, they were bone dry, brand new. I honestly think I have the technique down very well. When I did my first development I noticed that Ilford Delta 400 film I had went on suuuuper smoothly but the Kodak T-Max 400 started to become more difficult as I was getting further. This brought back some bad memories of failure from a previous attempt further down the line.

Bottom line is... I don't want to take any risks. I value my photos and wouldn't want to ruin a film and lose them. Pulling film out of the Paterson reel can be done with a lot of care but isn't fun. So, I've ordered 2 x 35mm Hewes reels for my Paterson tank which are on the way with FedEx. Are these so much better? Are they foolproof? I read some reviews on B&H (and even here) that some people had trouble with these: basically film rolling on top of another (touching) and losing those shots.

What are some opinions here? Are the Hewes reels better? Is it hard to go wrong with them once you practice enough (in daylight obviously). Is there any technique to check if the film is wound onto the reel correctly? I wouldn't want film overlapping each other and losing shots. Sounds a bit like a nightmare to me. If that can happen so easily, even the Paterson plastic ones sound safer.

If it makes any difference: I plan to develop around 1 roll a week most weeks, and I did read the posts with people saying that they've been using Paterson plastic reels for decades without issues. Even my most trusted and appreciated lab says that they are using Paterson plastic reels in their work. It might be that not all reels are made perfect...

P.S. This is my first post. Thank you in advance and glad to join this lovely community, hoping to learn a lot...

For me the Patersons work very reliably with 35mm film. Did you cut the leader cleanly? Straight, not through sprocket holes, slightly rounded corners, and cut off any strongly bent part of the leader? You can do the trimming with light on if you don't rewind all the way into the cassette. Another point is: move only one side of the reel, keep the other hand still. Use your thumbs (or maybe index fingers if you hold the reel the other way around) to guide the film, keep them on the edges of the film right before it goes in the slit.

Ditto.

Sounds to me like your still refining techniques. Stainless steel reels are a different technique. When you get them, practice daylight. You’ll quickly figure out which works best for you.

P.S. same with 120 film but don’t worry about sprocket holes.

when taking film off the Paterson reels, I find it easier to “break” the reels int their 2 halves. I do that to wash and dry anyway.

grain elevator said:

For me the Patersons work very reliably with 35mm film. Did you cut the leader cleanly? Straight, not through sprocket holes, slightly rounded corners, and cut off any strongly bent part of the leader? You can do the trimming with light on if you don't rewind all the way into the cassette. Another point is: move only one side of the reel, keep the other hand still. Use your thumbs (or maybe index fingers if you hold the reel the other way around) to guide the film, keep them on the edges of the film right before it goes in the slit.

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I can 100% guarantee you that I did everything correctly and have read the entire Internet FWIW I didn't roll back into the canister completely and cut the leader perfectly in day light. I even started the film on the reel in daylight and pulled it through the first couple of inches with my fingers, then continuing to reel with only one hand moving and with my thumbs making sure everything is aligned and straight. Very OCD personality

BrianShaw said:

Ditto.

Sounds to me like your still refining techniques. Stainless steel reels are a different technique. When you get them, practice daylight. You’ll quickly figure out which works best for you.

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Exactly, I'm still refining. I'm also hoping to figure out for myself which works better. I was just curious if it's possible for things to go wrong unexpectedly (without my own mistake and easily) with the SS ones too.

I know others feed different than me on this, but I find it A LOT better to open the film can and remove the film before loading reels. Pulling the film through the light trap adds a complexity that’s just not worth it to me.

On the SS reels you will have increased risk of crimping the film and getting “fingernail” marks. Invariably the will always be in the middle of your best negative.

But they are traditional and have been used successfully for decades. It’s a skill to learn. Until mastered, no skill is 100% foolproof.

BrianShaw said:

I know others feed different than me on this, but I find it A LOT better to open the film can and remove the film before loading reels. Pulling the film through the light trap adds a complexity that’s just not worth it to me.

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I've read that often, but could never figure out how to do it without dropping the film on the floor and risking dust, tangles and scratches. How do you handle the loose film?

grain elevator said:

I've read that often, but could never figure out how to do it without dropping the film on the floor and risking dust, tangles and scratches. How do you handle the loose film?

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Cut the leader, Pull it off the film spool while rolling it back up, cut the spoil end... then load the developing reel. The roll of film stays held in curled fingers until it’s fed onto the dev reel.

BrianShaw said:

Cut the leader, Pull it off the film spool while rolling it back up, cut the spoil end... then load the developing reel. The roll of film stays held in curled fingers until it’s fed onto the dev reel.

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Why do you take the film off the spool first? And how many hands do you have? I need the two I have for the Paterson reel...

The only reels that are "fool proof" are the ones you practice and become proficient with. Even then they aren't 100% fool proof, nothing is. I, and many others, use stainless reels and find them much easier to load than plastic.I started with plastic, switched over half a century ago, no looking back. I do keep a plastic set on the shelf, just for that odd size film. I can load wet SS reels, you can't do that with plastic.

Like Brian, I take the film out of the canister for loading. For many years I cut the spool off, after trimming the leader, but nowadays just leave it on until I get most of the film loaded into the reel. I use my pinky finger to keep the film from tangling up as I spool it on.

I have a set of Jobo reels that I find considerably easier to load than the paterson reels. They have a little notch on one of the reals, from the outside to the inside, so that if they bind up for whatever reason you can actually run your finger over the edges of the film, even wound all the way into the reel, and nudge it slightly or whatever to get it going again. I don't often have problems nowadays, bone dry reels and making sure they're rinsed and soaked after use.

Are you loading in a dark location, or are you trying to use a changing bag?
I've never been able to reliably use changing bags.
One thing I find useful is to be able to hear the sound of the film as it is loaded on to the reel. There is a distinctive sound when the film is going on correctly. If the sound changes, you know that you need to back the film out a bit. You lose that benefit with a changing bag.
Another thing to realize is that with plastic reels it is important to hold the reels lightly - with your finger tips, not your palms. If you apply pressure, the sides are less likely to remain parallel, and the film will be less likely to float within the grooves.
It is a little bit like riding a bicycle or swimming. You learn it, and then once the feedback loop becomes ingrained, you will retain it.
I can and do load Paterson reels, Paterson clone reels and steel reels. Going back through the more than 50 years I've been doing this (starting at age 11!), I've also used Yankee roll film tanks, Kodak aprons and developing in total darkness over a tray. All are workable, and all get to be straightforward once they become habit (but I wouldn't recommend the tray unless absolutely necessary).

For me best are Keiser, plastic reels with metal ball to prevent film going in reverse, easiest to load (for me at least).

And welcome to the forum !

Hewes ss reels. Perfection.

Thank you all! What a wonderful place. Learning so many things. I guess I have the opportunity to practice both now and see what I like.

I started with the older style, that means transparent, reels from Jobo. Did not even daylight-tested them before. Had no issue whatsoever.

Ultimate combo is AP reels and Paterson tanks.

AP tanks take more fluid per film and the lid leaks easily. Threaded lid sometimes jams when you try to close it etc. On the other hand Paterson reels are horrible to load 120 film.

Clip the corners of the film. Hewes reels or other quality reels that are parallel and not out of wack.

SS Kindermann for me. But I started with some plastic, probably Chechoslovakian or Polish -made, reels and felt quite comfortable even with them.

I've used both over the years different brands. I settled on SS for the ability to load a wet reel and ease of loading(for me).
Temperature control in a water bath and physical size were better for me. Some of them had minor leaks from the fill cap
but my hands were already wet and I had no sensetvity to any of the chemistry.

As others have said practice and then practice some more. If you misload a reel it's not like you're the first one to
screw up a roll of film and you certainly won't be the last no how important they are to you..
Remember, the best shot on the roll is the one that didn't come out.

Blaming the tools especially ones that have been used for years doesn't mean the tools are bad, just means you need more practice.

John Koehrer said:

As others have said practice and then practice some more.

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As said I started without any practice and never had issues.

From the 1950's a man walks up the a beatnik in New York City and asks, "How do you get to Carnegie Hall?"
The beatnik answers, "Practice, man, practice."

Hews SS reels. Never buy used reels. Never buy cheap reels. I bought 4 Hews reels 20 years ago and they still work like new...thats at least 300 rolls per reel. I struggled with cheap reels, tried plastic reels (disaster for me), and then I purchased a Hewes reels; like a light from heaven it was.