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Which 35mm camera should I use for my first BW film?

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A friend wanted to get rid of his cameras so he gave me these 3, a Nikon F-801S (N8008s), a Kiev 6S (6C) and a Zenit E. I have enough to play with for a while. It is great I own a 180mm 2.8 Sonnar with a p6 mount so it should be compatible with the Kiev 😀

Nikon is loaded with a half used film, but it needs to be cleaned thoroughly. I think I'll have to remove the film. Do you think it is possible to rewind the film back and then use it again? I like the looks of expired film images, so it would be a shame to waste it.

I can't turn it on yet as one battery oxidized so I need to clean the contacts, I'll do it a bit later...

I'm not sure I understand how does the Kiev work exactly, sometimes the lever comes back by itself after rewinding and opens the shutter, as if I fired the button. Might be faulty. I'll try to find a manual for it... But first I'll try to get the Nikon working.

I don't know what to do with Zenit, as I already have one... I'll probably sell and give the money to my friend 😀

View attachment 327969

It’s cool that you got another load of junk…
:wink:
ok all kidding aside, you just need one working camera. One. Maybe you can get that Nikon to work, but sometimes a leaked battery can ruin the electronics.
Again, you just need one decent, working camera. Stop wasting time on basket cases that may or may not work, may or may not focus correctly etc.
Unless what you want to do is fiddle with stuff instead of enjoying taking pics.

My advice is to get rid of all the junky stuff. Try and get some money for it. Save up a bit if need be so you can get a decent camera and lens that works properly. There are so many decent cameras out there for under $100.
 
It’s cool that you got another load of junk…
:wink:
ok all kidding aside, you just need one working camera. One. Maybe you can get that Nikon to work, but sometimes a leaked battery can ruin the electronics.
Again, you just need one decent, working camera. Stop wasting time on basket cases that may or may not work, may or may not focus correctly etc.
Unless what you want to do is fiddle with stuff instead of enjoying taking pics.

My advice is to get rid of all the junky stuff. Try and get some money for it. Save up a bit if need be so you can get a decent camera and lens that works properly. There are so many decent cameras out there for under $100.

Yes, the junk is breeding. I should start selling the offspring...

I've cleaned everything and put the batteries and the Nikon seems to be working nicely. Although I find it quite big and heavy, so probably won't stick with it for too long.
I feel the Olympus om-1 might be just right for me, I'm just waiting for the right opportunity to come and meanwhile I will shoot with Nikon...
 
Hi, does anyone know what might have caused these? I'm not sure did it happen in camera, or while developing?

Thanks

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Those look like drying marks on the film. Happens when no proper cleaning is used on negatives before scanning 😴
 
I agree -- water spots. If your final rinse is distilled water you'll see far fewer of them; they're a ring of formerly dissolved minerals from tap water left behind when the water evaporated. Wetting agent final rinse will help, causing the water to sheet off instead of standing in drops as it dries, but too much wetting agent can cause these as well. Follow directions.
 
Actually looks more like fine hairs/dirt. Drying marks are more splotchy. I get both all the time and just clone them out in lightroom.
 
Thanks, so this is not my fault as this happened during developing. I suspected this :smile:

I'll go to an another place next time to develop and see what happens
 
Thanks, so this is not my fault as this happened during developing. I suspected this :smile:

I'll go to an another place next time to develop and see what happens

Is that a scan? I'd be more worried about the uneven exposure across the frame. Especially the left 1/4
 
Is that a scan? I'd be more worried about the uneven exposure across the frame. Especially the left 1/4

It's a scan, I didn't notice really . Probably thought it was lens vignetting, but now I see it is not the same size on both sides
 
Thanks, so this is not my fault as this happened during developing. I suspected this :smile:

I'll go to an another place next time to develop and see what happens

If by this you mean you have someone else develop your roll of b&w then I would suggest doing it yourself. Don't know what you're paying for processing and the cost of chemicals there but it can be less costly and you can get cleaner results. It is super easy once you knock out the first roll and could be fun too!

BTW, most all color and b&w film have so much latitude - particularly for overexposure, that you don't even need a lightmeter - internal or otherwise.
 
If by this you mean you have someone else develop your roll of b&w then I would suggest doing it yourself. Don't know what you're paying for processing and the cost of chemicals there but it can be less costly and you can get cleaner results. It is super easy once you knock out the first roll and could be fun too!

BTW, most all color and b&w film have so much latitude - particularly for overexposure, that you don't even need a lightmeter - internal or otherwise.

Thanks, I think I'll try it... I'll order some Rodinal and Adofix, that should be enough? I have a tank, but don't have a black bag. I can turn off the lights in my bathroom, no windows there :smile:
 
Thanks, I think I'll try it... I'll order some Rodinal and Adofix, that should be enough? I have a tank, but don't have a black bag. I can turn off the lights in my bathroom, no windows there :smile:

Developer, fixer, yep, that's the minimum. You might find too much light leaks around the edges of the bathroom door, even with a towel stuffed underneath, but a careful application of weatherstrip can do wonders for that (ask me how I know).
 
Just load the reels and tank at night, with the lights turned off outside the bathroom as well.
You can always load the reels and tank at night, and then develop film the next day - just label the tank well!
 
Developer, fixer, yep, that's the minimum. You might find too much light leaks around the edges of the bathroom door, even with a towel stuffed underneath, but a careful application of weatherstrip can do wonders for that (ask me how I know).

You got me interested, so I did a little experiment. This is a 30second exposure, ISO 10000 with my Sony A7S :smile: It was invisible, or barely visible until I added 5 stops of light in photoshop... So I think I might be ok, I'll put a towel just in case...

BTW I bought an Olympus OM-2, popped up in the local ads, dirt cheap so I couldn't resist . The prism has a bit of fungus and the focusing screen is missing, but everything else looks to be in order (meter and shutter times) and cosmetically very nice... 🧑‍🔧 I've cleaned the gunk from the old foam and the old light seals, the prism is sunbathing and the focusing screen is travelling towards me. So it should be like new next week :smile:


A7S05306.jpg
 
Just load the reels and tank at night, with the lights turned off outside the bathroom as well.
You can always load the reels and tank at night, and then develop film the next day - just label the tank well!

Actually for the experiment I didn't turn off the light in the hallway... So I should be good.

I must say I installed the doors myself when redecorating 🙅‍♂️
 
Yep, hall lights out and a towel under the door, you should be fine. I've had a couple darkrooms where after a half hour in the dark I could see the outline of my hand held up in front of me, and never had fogging I could attribute to that. Bottom line is, your fully dark-adapted eyes are more sensitive than film for a short exposure time (film, however, can soak up exposure over a long period, which your eyes can't). That's why "safe time" is a useful term -- my current darkroom has a safe time for film above ten minutes even when the sun is shining on the window cover; my old one it was close to thirty minutes (window was on the north side, so never direct sun). And yet I can see outlines...
 
Yep, hall lights out and a towel under the door, you should be fine. I've had a couple darkrooms where after a half hour in the dark I could see the outline of my hand held up in front of me, and never had fogging I could attribute to that. Bottom line is, your fully dark-adapted eyes are more sensitive than film for a short exposure time (film, however, can soak up exposure over a long period, which your eyes can't). That's why "safe time" is a useful term -- my current darkroom has a safe time for film above ten minutes even when the sun is shining on the window cover; my old one it was close to thirty minutes (window was on the north side, so never direct sun). And yet I can see outlines...

My darkroom is not completely dark, but dark enough so that the direct line of light does not cause a problem. I still use a large changing bag for loading film into a tank or drum because I do not believe the room is dark enough during the day and because if I drop something in the bag it cannot go far.
 
Thanks, I think I'll try it... I'll order some Rodinal and Adofix, that should be enough? I have a tank, but don't have a black bag. I can turn off the lights in my bathroom, no windows there :smile:

I took a b&w class at a local college many years ago. Out of a class of about 20 people, a couple ruined their first roll as loading it on the reel is the trickiest part. So if you have a practice roll it might be helpful.

BTW, if there is such a class in your area, I would highly recommend it.
 
The Olympus works great, it is so nicely made and simple, I just love it... At last I have a perfectly working camera.
Here is a scan

2023-03-02_02-16-58.jpg


I got the chemicals, but don't have a development tank yet :smile: I hope to have it soon...
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and help
 
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