Which 35mm camera should I use for my first BW film?

[Huss]

My 35mm Nikon N6006 is still working after thirty-plus years. The shutter is amazingly accurate. And the meter works great. It has PASM, braketing, and most of the bells and whistles. It's plastic, but nice plastic, and not waterproof. But so what? This model is cheap to buy. Make sure they include the battery charger. Here are some recent pictures using Tmax 400.

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none of my 'fancy' slrs are waterproof either. pics look great from your 6006!

 

[Lumipan]

I got the film scans today, it turns out the Cosina doesn't focus well as I suspected Images are nevertheless interesting, they look as they were in a basement for 50 years... I'll try to repair and calibrate it, as I have nothing to lose. It would be great if you can point me to the right direction with a link or some info on how to do it...
Next time I'll load the Zenit and probably buy a proper film camera sometimes.

There are some artifacts on the images, at different spots on different images, not sure why they are here.

 

[Donald Qualls]

First thing to do is, with the camera back open and shutter open as well (locking cable release on B, since few cameras in that class have T), put the frosted side of a small ground glass or other frosted material (CD/DVD jewel case material with "invisible" tape works well) on the film guide rails and verify that the focusing screen agrees with the film focus. Given it's an SLR, it probably doesn't. The problem might be as simple as someone having cleaned the camera and reinstalled the ground glass upside down, but more likely the mirror is too high or too low when the camera is cocked.

 

[Lumipan]

First thing to do is, with the camera back open and shutter open as well (locking cable release on B, since few cameras in that class have T), put the frosted side of a small ground glass or other frosted material (CD/DVD jewel case material with "invisible" tape works well) on the film guide rails and verify that the focusing screen agrees with the film focus. Given it's an SLR, it probably doesn't. The problem might be as simple as someone having cleaned the camera and reinstalled the ground glass upside down, but more likely the mirror is too high or too low when the camera is cocked.

Thanks for your suggestion, I put some scotch tape on a microscope glass slide and have seen the image (big fun ), but it is very small so it all looks very sharp not sure how to verify. Maybe take a picture of it with a macro lens on a digital camera, but it is so fiddly to hold the shutter button, hold the glass etc...
On the other hand I've examined the inside and it all looks pretty nicely lined up, the mirror, prism and the small part with the pin stopping the mirror, it has intact rubber on it.

 

[Lumipan]

I declare a defeat...
I have tried to open the camera, I have removed the advance lever cover, but the screw underneath is stuck. No way to unscrew it, probably there is an old version of Loctite on it. (BTW. I have JIS screwdrivers) So I'll just leave it like it is, I'll leave the objective for use with digital and probably pass the Cosina further and buy a new camera...

 

[Donald Qualls]

the screw underneath is stuck. No way to unscrew it,

Tried turning it the other way? Some of those are left hand thread.

You probably don't need to take the top cover off to check the mirror position -- there may have been a foam buffer under the mirror that's gone now; that would let the mirror go too low, increasing the distance between the lens node and focusing screen.

You'll probably need something like a loupe to see the image on the microscope slide well enough to verify focus -- I usually just take my glasses off, but I'm very nearsighted, that gives me the equivalent of about a 7.5x loupe. Once you can see the film plane image well enough, you can determine whether the film plane focuses closer or further away than the focusing screen. If the film plane focuses closer, that means the mirror is too high; if further away, the mirror is too low (and this would be the result if the focusing screen were upside down, too).

Unless there's evidence the top cover has been off the camera, I'd start with the assumption that the mirror's "down" position needs adjusting...


That said, stopping before you damage something is certainly a legitimate decision. I've done it a number of times.

 

[Lumipan]

Tried turning it the other way? Some of those are left hand thread.

You probably don't need to take the top cover off to check the mirror position -- there may have been a foam buffer under the mirror that's gone now; that would let the mirror go too low, increasing the distance between the lens node and focusing screen.

You'll probably need something like a loupe to see the image on the microscope slide well enough to verify focus -- I usually just take my glasses off, but I'm very nearsighted, that gives me the equivalent of about a 7.5x loupe. Once you can see the film plane image well enough, you can determine whether the film plane focuses closer or further away than the focusing screen. If the film plane focuses closer, that means the mirror is too high; if further away, the mirror is too low (and this would be the result if the focusing screen were upside down, too).

Unless there's evidence the top cover has been off the camera, I'd start with the assumption that the mirror's "down" position needs adjusting...


That said, stopping before you damage something is certainly a legitimate decision. I've done it a number of times.

I thought it might be a reverse thread, but it won't budge. Although I didn't push so hard the other way. I tried heating and putting a drop of oil. I thought about removing the screw by drilling with a Dremel, but didn't do it. I feel it might be a bit too much for now I'll get an another camera.

I have a few microscopes including a stereo microscope, but don't have a regular loupe. I should get one anyway.

I looked at the mirror and didn't find an obvious sign of why it could be misaligned...
I'll look again later...
Nevertheless I'll try to find something 'new' and hassle free...
Olympus is most tempting, or maybe a Pentax with M42 as I have some lens for both...

Thanks

 

[Donald Qualls]

maybe a Pentax with M42 as I have some lens for both...

My favorite M42 camera is a Ricoh Singlex II -- essentially the same metering as a late model Spotmatic, but with an early Copal Square metal leaf vertical shutter, giving 125 sync speed. Built-in hot shoe. Sturdy and reliable (unless, like the one I bought used in 1981, it gets the shutter cock and advance out of sync -- this ought to be easy to fix, but at current prices it hasn't been worth finding someone who knows how to fix it). The Ricoh (or Sears) TLS is nearly identical, but with a less "standard" shutter speed dial.

 

[Lumipan]

Stuff on eBay is kind of expensive, as the whole world is looking at the same items, so I'll find something locally. Here the market is not very hectic but things do pop up once in a while. Just need to be patient and not too picky about models... Or maybe here on the forum, I suppose one could trust the members

I like how your Ricoh looks like, I dig the silver finish. I'll pick it up if I spot it...

The only thing that is currently tempting me here is a Nikon N2020, at maybe 80€, it is sold by a guy I met a few times. But I don't have any Nikon objectives so it would add up to the cost and make my cupboard even tighter

 

[Sirius Glass]

Stuff on eBay is kind of expensive, as the whole world is looking at the same items, so I'll find something locally. Here the market is not very hectic but things do pop up once in a while. Just need to be patient and not too picky about models... Or maybe here on the forum, I suppose one could trust the members

I like how your Ricoh looks like, I dig the silver finish. I'll pick it up if I spot it...

The only thing that is currently tempting me here is a Nikon N2020, at maybe 80€, it is sold by a guy I met a few times. But I don't have any Nikon objectives so it would add up to the cost and make my cupboard even tighter

At KEH there is a 180 day warranty, where equipment can be returned, repaired or exchanged for any reason, except possibly abuse.

 

[Lumipan]

Thanks

At KEH there is a 180 day warranty, where equipment can be returned, repaired or exchanged for any reason, except possibly abuse.

Thanks, it's a good idea. but they are in US. So for this level of spending it wouldn't be reasonable to order here, I'd have to pay a high price for shipping and taxes. Maybe there is a store like that in the EU, I'll look up.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Don't know if they deal with M42 other than Zenit, but Oleg's Camera in Kyiv has a very good reputation, and as far as I know has managed to stay in business.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Don't know if they deal with M42 other than Zenit, but Oleg's Camera in Kyiv has a very good reputation, and as far as I know has managed to stay in business.

Do you have any contact information or a web page for Oleg's Camera?

 

[Donald Qualls]

It's Oleg Camera Repair -- the page says he's moved his business to Bratislava, Slovakia (probably a much quieter neighborhood than Kyiv at present).

 

[Sirius Glass]

It's Oleg Camera Repair -- the page says he's moved his business to Bratislava, Slovakia (probably a much quieter neighborhood than Kyiv at present).

Thank you.

 

[Lumipan]

It's Oleg Camera Repair -- the page says he's moved his business to Bratislava, Slovakia (probably a much quieter neighborhood than Kyiv at present).

Thanks, we get a lot of Zenit cameras over here too on flea markets etc. Often in great condition as people would buy these when visiting Russia and not use much Mine looks like new. I'll put a film into it these days. I used a Helios on my digital camera and it gives great images, I like the colors very much, I did some shots near the sea...

You got me interested with your Ricoh, so I stumbled on an auction for a Spotmatic+, I think I might bid on that. It comes with a 50mm/f4 macro Super Takumar and can take my Jena M42 50mm and 135mm objectives, but I suspect the price will rise quite a bit... We'll see, I think I'll go in that direction, or an Olympus OM2 maybe...

 

[Donald Qualls]

The potentially big issue with Spotmatics is that the light meter cells fail after thirty or forty years, and there are no parts to replace them any more. I had my Spotmatic SP meter repaired by a worker in Kentucky who was able to modify Pentax 6x7 or 67 (I forget which) cells to fit the Spottie, but it's my understanding all of those parts are gone now, too.

Then again, even without a meter, it's a fine camera; a smart phone app or external meter (or good knowledge of Sunny 16 and a cheat card for the more obscure conditions) will cover you. Assuming that Super Takumar is a 50 mm f/1.4, it's a legendary lens (the SMC Takumar the same specs is even better) -- and if it's gotten tea colored due to the effects of radiation from the thoriated element, it can be cleared with exposure to UV (I did it with mine, a couple weeks on a windowsill with the rear wrapped in foil, others have done it in 24-48 hours with a UV lamp made for exposing alt-process prints). No, it won't fog your film; the camera's mirror stops the radiation well enough.

 

[Lumipan]

The choice of these used cameras is so broad, there is an Asahi Pentax SV with 50/1.4 a Spotmatic+ with 50/4 macro, both Super Takumar (I love these Japanese lens names). There is an Olympus om1 with 135/3.5 Zuiko which would nicely complement my 50mm/1.8, a few OM2 at various prices which look ok... My head will explode, I think I should stop digging and buy something

 

[Sirius Glass]

The choice of these used cameras is so broad, there is an Asahi Pentax SV with 50/1.4 a Spotmatic+ with 50/4 macro, both Super Takumar (I love these Japanese lens names). There is an Olympus om1 with 135/3.5 Zuiko which would nicely complement my 50mm/1.8, a few OM2 at various prices which look ok... My head will explode, I think I should stop digging and buy something

I suggest the 28mm lens and a longer lens such as 200mm. Look at zoom lenses.

 

[SchwinnParamount]

It really doesn't matter which camera as long as that camera has an automatic mode. All of the modern manufacturers have produced cameras that have competent light meters built in and an "automatic mode" that gives you a good exposure. Lenses? again, any Japanese camera maker is going to give you great glass.

 

[Lumipan]

I don't really use automatic modes, even on digital. I'm used to it like that. Although sometimes I put my digital on the Aperture or Shitter priority...

I'm leaning towards the OM, just not sure om1 or 2, I think I'd be satisfied with any of these provided they'd work correctly... Although I like that the om1 can work without batteries.

 

[tokam]

If you are not familiar with using a camera with stopped-down TTL metering, i.e. Spotmatic, there are circumstances where seeing the meter needle can be difficult. For example you want to shoot at f11 and the view through the viewfinder is very dark (unless it's a very bright day). In these circumstances it may be preferable to set the lens to a wider aperture, say f4, and get the correct shutter speed for the exposure. Then in order to use your aperture of f11 you have to adjust your shutter to 3 stops slower and then take your picture. There's a very good reason that SLR manufacturers implemented open-aperture metering from the late 1960's onwards. Of course if the camera meter has failed then you could use an external meter including an app on a smart phone.

It all depends on how much convenience you want during your shooting experience.

 

[Donald Qualls]

For example you want to shoot at f11 and the view through the viewfinder is very dark (unless it's a very bright day).

And this is why I haven't even handled any of my M42 since getting a Nikkormat FT2 -- wide-open metering is the best!

 

[Lumipan]

A friend wanted to get rid of his cameras so he gave me these 3, a Nikon F-801S (N8008s), a Kiev 6S (6C) and a Zenit E. I have enough to play with for a while. It is great I own a 180mm 2.8 Sonnar with a p6 mount so it should be compatible with the Kiev

Nikon is loaded with a half used film, but it needs to be cleaned thoroughly. I think I'll have to remove the film. Do you think it is possible to rewind the film back and then use it again? I like the looks of expired film images, so it would be a shame to waste it.

I can't turn it on yet as one battery oxidized so I need to clean the contacts, I'll do it a bit later...

I'm not sure I understand how does the Kiev work exactly, sometimes the lever comes back by itself after rewinding and opens the shutter, as if I fired the button. Might be faulty. I'll try to find a manual for it... But first I'll try to get the Nikon working.

I don't know what to do with Zenit, as I already have one... I'll probably sell and give the money to my friend

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hi, I'm a new member did my introduction at the appropriate spot.

I have a question as I'm quite new with film photography, apart from using simple cameras in the 90s...

I bought myself my first BW film, the Ilford FP4 PLUS (ISO125) 35mm and have 3 cameras. Not sure which should I put it in, as I wouldn't like to spoil my first film. I'm used to digital photography, which apart from buying a camera and using electricity to charge is a completely free type of photography

I have an Olympus SC35 Type 12 with Zuiko 50/1.8, it has a manual and auto mode, but the focusing in the viewfinder is kind of weird, I'm not sure if I'll be able to focus right. It has some kind of crosshair in the middle and it is called "Focusing Screen 1-12". Also I'm not quite sure it knows how much is the aperture open, or closed. So it can't really know how long to keep the shutter, automatically or can it? I suppose it reads the ISO rating automatically?

The other camera is a Zenith with a Helios 44M-4. It seems to be working properly, but I'm not sure about the lightmeter. I think I understand how it works, but don't know how in(precise) it is. I could fit my Zeiss Jena 50/2.8mm or 135/3.5mm on it, but I'm quite sure the lens flange distance is different for these.

And the thrid one is a Cosina CT-1A, with 50mm/1.8 Lens which does work and has a working lightmeter, I shot my last film with it so I'm more into other options, also the objective is my least favourite of the bunch...

I'll go to a few day trip tomorrow so, I'll bring one of these with me.

Please share your thoughts and some advice.... Thanks

Any camera familiar with!