Where might one find diagrammatic formulae for lenses?

[Aron]

I have a Waltham pocket watch that has to be 125 years old, I'd guess. And I have to keep winding it and keep it running. Because if it stops and I have to pull out the stem, I feel like one of these times I'll break it. You have to pull on that stem so hard, practically with all your strength, and that just doesn't seem right. Otherwise it works perfectly. Inpuut appreciated.

Don't force anything on that poor timepiece. The parts combining both winding and time setting (the keyless works) are prone to wearing out with time (a difficult to pull out stem is a sign of this) and replacing broken or severly bent parts can be difficult. As a general rule handwound mechanical watches should be serviced every 8 years.

Most of the time watches "break" as a result of careless users or unqualified repairmen.

 

[Tom1956]

Thanks, folks. I promise not to expand my considerable naturally-gifted mechanical skill to watch repair. I just don't want to go there. Absolutely no room for a learning curve, One chance is all you get, or you'll have NOTHING. Too risky.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Don't force anything on that poor timepiece. The parts combining both winding and time setting (the keyless works) are prone to wearing out with time (a difficult to pull out stem is a sign of this) and replacing broken or severly bent parts can be difficult. As a general rule handwound mechanical watches should be serviced every 8 years.

Most of the time watches "break" as a result of careless users or unqualified repairmen.

Tom's watch is possibly what's known as "negative set", meaning that the keyless work is naturally in the setting position; pushing the stem into the movement shifts the mechanism to the winding position and pulling it out allows a spring to shift it into the setting position. The winding crown and stem are part of the case, when the movement is out of the case it will be in setting mode. And then the watch may not be this type, Waltham used both, later watches were negative set. I sometimes carry a Waltham silver hunter with an inscription from 1883 on the case, this watch in not negative set - the stem is part of the movement and must be removed before removing the watch from the case.
Either way the watch needs servicing and should not be used.

 

[BrianShaw]

The winding crown and stem are part of the case, ...

As you say... it all depends upon what the watch and case really are, but it sounds like a problem with the "detent spring" in the neck of the case to me. I've experienced that with Waltham's in Philadelphia Watch Case Co cases where the spring gets dry and worn and deformed. I carry a very pedestrian 15 jewel 1883 model open-face Waltham in a gold-filled case that has at least 50% of the gold worn off. Even before me it was a well used watch... and I've been carrying it since 1978!

 

[Tom1956]

Wonder how much it would cost to take it to somebody. Preferably somebody who is not a boob. There's boobs out there and they don't wear signs identifying themselves.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Wonder how much it would cost to take it to somebody. Preferably somebody who is not a boob. There's boobs out there and they don't wear signs identifying themselves.

For a simple cleaning expect to spend about $200 as a minimum. About 60 to 80 percent of those out there have no business touching a watch for anything beyond winding the thing.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

As you say... it all depends upon what the watch and case really are, but it sounds like a problem with the "detent spring" in the neck of the case to me. I've experienced that with Waltham's in Philadelphia Watch Case Co cases where the spring gets dry and worn and deformed. I carry a very pedestrian 15 jewel 1883 model open-face Waltham in a gold-filled case that has at least 50% of the gold worn off. Even before me it was a well used watch... and I've been carrying it since 1978!

There's a name the casemakers used for that spring and ferrule assembly that is escaping me at the moment. Sometimes the tapered shoulder on the stem wears flat and causes this problem. Then sometimes the spring is damaged by the last "watchmaker" or the wrong spring/stem combination is used....


Real watches have a fusee and are wound with a key, anyway.

 

[BrianShaw]

Sleeve. (I had to look it up myself... too many things to remember and some of the old memories sure have faded.)http://www.ofrei.com/page441.html

 

[Tom1956]

For a simple cleaning expect to spend about $200 as a minimum. About 60 to 80 percent of those out there have no business touching a watch for anything beyond winding the thing.

Well that's another thing around here that isn't going to get done anytime soon. As little as I use it, I guess I'll just keep waiting for the right time to come around and wind it. It's still dead on the money twice a day. When that happens you wind it so you don't have to tug on that stem. Thanks, guys.

 

[David Lyga]

Tom1956: I love your use of PVC pipe to turn the ring logo. Sometimes the 'obvious' is like trying to discover the wheel. - David Lyga

 

[AgX]

For the front rings, I go to a hardware store and find a piece of pvc pipe fitting in the plumbing section, or improvise a similar correct-diameter hollow tube. Then I tear thin strips of duct tape to make a cushion on the edge of the pipe fitting. This cushion gives friction so I can push down on that lens ring to try to get a "grab" so I can start turning. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

I'm surprised that it worked with that tape.

But your hint gave me the idea to apply a fit O-ring to the lens instead and then use that pipe as described.

 

[Tom1956]

David--glad to hear it. Thanks. Agx--that's another good idea for when you get the opportunity to get your hands on the right O-rings. Done that too.

 

[AgX]

If one could lay hands on conical pipes... just cut them to the desired diameter.

Maybe funnels would work, if not too elastic.

 

[Tom1956]

Funnels are too thin and flimsey--not enough thickness ti give needed surface area. You ususally need to press down with all your might, and that usually tears up and shreds the duct tape. You usually have to re-tape it a couple times before you finally get it loose. I am a very persiwstent fellow and this method has EVENTUALLY worked for me every time. Sometimes gums up the edge of the glass though, but never seems to damage the coating, mysteriously enough. If it does, then paint thinner cleans it. Face it, when you had nothing for a lens to begin with, you might have to break a few eggs to make the omelet. Anybody's dumb idea can work, and I get lots of dumb ideas.

 

[David Lyga]

Gumming up is no problem as lighter fluid is, again, to the rescue. - David Lyga

 

[Tom1956]

I keep an 80/20 mix of Coleman lantern fuel (naptha) to 20% plain paint thinner. The paint thinner is very slow and it reduces the flash-off time of the solution. Best solvent wash in my profession. But aside from that, it reduces the "astringent" or harsh action of pure naptha. Pure naptha is a bit harsh on the finished surfaces of the camera and lens. Further, since it is slow, you can clean gummy substances with less wiping (abrasion), and therefor better than pure lighter fluid for camera work, and especially lenses. You might prefer 85/15, but whatever. I have listened to all these folks using lighter fluid and never mentioned this concoction, but it really is better.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I keep an 80/20 mix of Coleman lantern fuel (naptha) to 20% plain paint thinner. The paint thinner is very slow and it reduces the flash-off time of the solution. Best solvent wash in my profession. But aside from that, it reduces the "astringent" or harsh action of pure naptha. Pure naptha is a bit harsh on the finished surfaces of the camera and lens. Further, since it is slow, you can clean gummy substances with less wiping (abrasion), and therefor better than pure lighter fluid for camera work, and especially lenses. You might prefer 85/15, but whatever. I have listened to all these folks using lighter fluid and never mentioned this concoction, but it really is better.

I use Coleman fuel in an ultrasonic to clean very gummy dirty things. Sometimes with a few drops of GUNK concentrate. Oddly, I never use it in my campstoves, it's far too expensive for that!

 

[David Lyga]

The lighter fluid is not necessarily the BEST. But it is convenient (charcoal lighter fluid) and cheap at about $4 per liter. I do not use much. - David Lyga