I have a Waltham pocket watch that has to be 125 years old, I'd guess. And I have to keep winding it and keep it running. Because if it stops and I have to pull out the stem, I feel like one of these times I'll break it. You have to pull on that stem so hard, practically with all your strength, and that just doesn't seem right. Otherwise it works perfectly. Inpuut appreciated.
Don't force anything on that poor timepiece. The parts combining both winding and time setting (the keyless works) are prone to wearing out with time (a difficult to pull out stem is a sign of this) and replacing broken or severly bent parts can be difficult. As a general rule handwound mechanical watches should be serviced every 8 years.
Most of the time watches "break" as a result of careless users or unqualified repairmen.
As you say... it all depends upon what the watch and case really are, but it sounds like a problem with the "detent spring" in the neck of the case to me. I've experienced that with Waltham's in Philadelphia Watch Case Co cases where the spring gets dry and worn and deformed. I carry a very pedestrian 15 jewel 1883 model open-face Waltham in a gold-filled case that has at least 50% of the gold worn off. Even before me it was a well used watch... and I've been carrying it since 1978!The winding crown and stem are part of the case, ...
Wonder how much it would cost to take it to somebody. Preferably somebody who is not a boob. There's boobs out there and they don't wear signs identifying themselves.
As you say... it all depends upon what the watch and case really are, but it sounds like a problem with the "detent spring" in the neck of the case to me. I've experienced that with Waltham's in Philadelphia Watch Case Co cases where the spring gets dry and worn and deformed. I carry a very pedestrian 15 jewel 1883 model open-face Waltham in a gold-filled case that has at least 50% of the gold worn off. Even before me it was a well used watch... and I've been carrying it since 1978!
For a simple cleaning expect to spend about $200 as a minimum. About 60 to 80 percent of those out there have no business touching a watch for anything beyond winding the thing.
For the front rings, I go to a hardware store and find a piece of pvc pipe fitting in the plumbing section, or improvise a similar correct-diameter hollow tube. Then I tear thin strips of duct tape to make a cushion on the edge of the pipe fitting. This cushion gives friction so I can push down on that lens ring to try to get a "grab" so I can start turning. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
I keep an 80/20 mix of Coleman lantern fuel (naptha) to 20% plain paint thinner. The paint thinner is very slow and it reduces the flash-off time of the solution. Best solvent wash in my profession. But aside from that, it reduces the "astringent" or harsh action of pure naptha. Pure naptha is a bit harsh on the finished surfaces of the camera and lens. Further, since it is slow, you can clean gummy substances with less wiping (abrasion), and therefor better than pure lighter fluid for camera work, and especially lenses. You might prefer 85/15, but whatever. I have listened to all these folks using lighter fluid and never mentioned this concoction, but it really is better.
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