Where can I get green filters for B&W?

[madNbad]

Maybe green is not in style any more.

Another victim of the digital age.

 

[AgX]

They cancelled also Blue. All there is are hues of Yellow, Orange and hues of Red. Even Yellow-Green is no longer listed.
Also the Colour Correction filters are gone, including Skylight.
What remained are various IR filters.

They might custom make filters, but at respective cost.

 

[George Collier]

Thanks to y'all for your posts. I have found a 39 (easiest one to find) but not 46 or 55. B&H does indeed list them, but they are marked as either out of stock or discontinued. I've tried Amazon too. Remember, I'm looking for B+W or Heliopan (maybe that wasn't clear).
Tiffen used to be a respected brand, but I've been told by industry experts (aren't we all) that they are substandard. I've also used Hoya in the past with Nikons. I'll do something ("even if it's wrong" as an old friend used to say.)

 

[Sirius Glass]

They cancelled also Blue. All there is are hues of Yellow, Orange and hues of Red. Even Yellow-Green is no longer listed.
Also the Colour Correction filters are gone, including Skylight.
What remained are various IR filters.

They might custom make filters, but at respective cost.

Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.

 

[Kodachromeguy]

The problem with step-up filters on a Leica M is that you block a bit more of the viewfinder (unless you are only going up a few mm). For 39mm, 3 suggestions:

1. Buy a direct screw-in yellow-green. Watch the 'Bay and one will eventually appear. The Leitz one is labeled GGr.
2. Series VI adapter. The Leitz filter is GGr. Many VI filters from other brands, such as Eastman Kodak, are on eBay and at FilterFind.net. Minimal blockage.
3. Buy the adapter to mount Summitar filters on a newer 39mm lens and buy a Summitar Leitz G. This is the same color as the newer GGr.

Note: some (all?) of the Nikon 39mm filters are external thread and will not fit Leica lenses.

 

[AgX]

Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.

Blue was used as Colour Correcting filter for adapting standardized film to standardized light sources.

But Blue was also used as contrast filter for B&W (though rarely) and used to make colour seperations.

 

[Jos Segers]

To assess the effect of colour filters on FP4+ black-and-white film, I took shots from the AGFA GEVAERT colour test chart. The test chart was photographed on a sunny day. Numbers in the table are measured densities of the additive primary colours blue green and red. And black and white as well. When it comes to rendering the colour green, there is to my surprise little difference between a yellow filter or a green filter.

 

[AgX]

There must be something wrong...
How can you yield a higher density (and thus exposure) with a filter than without such?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.

Blue was used as Colour Correcting filter for adapting standardized film to standardized light sources.

But Blue was also used as contrast filter for B&W (though rarely) and used to make colour seperations.

I posted the blue filters common an most frequent use. When that use went away, so did the project without regard for color separation. Not enough market and the product disappears.

 

[Rayt]

I too have been looking for a B+W or Heliopan 46mm yellow green a filter I prefer for film. It’s perfect for street with people as main subject. The green part good for skin tones and the yellow part tonal separation overall. Also good for leafy landscapes. I have it in all the other sizes because Leitz had made them for decades but never in 46mm.

 

[Jos Segers]

There must be something wrong...
How can you yield a higher density (and thus exposure) with a filter than without such?

Two things play an important role. First, each filter colour has its own delay factor. The camera compensates for this by exposing longer. The entire density curve slides up as a result.
In addition, compared to an image without a filter, each of the filters used makes the colour red lighter. On the negative, this results in a higher density. A blue filter would produce the opposite effect.

 

[AgX]

But this then is a nonsense approach, by letting the camera compensate the filter. What do we learn from your graphik then?

 

[AgX]

Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.


I posted the blue filters common an most frequent use. When that use went away, so did the project without regard for color separation. Not enough market and the product disappears.

But these where different blue filters.
But I agree on the "not enough market" aspect.


The standard filter once was the yellow filter, from times when films typically were over-sensitive to Blue, to yield clouds at all. It remained for accentuating clouds. And then there were orange and red for a dramatic sky. These are classic uses. But there are countless others and uses for other filters too. But these always seemed to have been asked for less.
And with digital photography one could compute out of a colour image the effect of these filters on a b&w image.

 

[Pieter12]

Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.Blue was used for tungsten [incandescent] lighting which has fallen out of favor for lower energy light bulbs, so there is little to no call for them.


I posted the blue filters common an most frequent use. When that use went away, so did the project without regard for color separation. Not enough market and the product disappears.

Every once in a while, you need an oddball filter. I was shooting a pink Cadillac against a white background, and a blue filter just gave it more tonal separation. I could have used a green filter, but didn't have one at hand.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Affordable filter: Marumi. From Japan. Glass. I've used them for years. I use their green MC-P01. It's equivalent to Wratten 57.

 

[jgoody]

Another shoutout for Tim at filterfind.net. Always had good luck with him. He also has an interesting section called "data' which describes various filters and their uses

 

[reddesert]

Filters, IMO, just need to be flat and have roughly the correct transmission curve ("roughly" because this is pictorial use, not spectrophotometry). If you want to use B+W or Heliopan filters, that is fine, but if they don't make the right filter, you can look for a Hoya, or an old Vivitar VMC. Or just buy a Tiffen filter if they make the type you want.

Some minor disadvantages of the bog standard Tiffen filters are that their basic line is not AR coated and the rims are a little thicker. But I don't think you'll ever be able to tell the difference between a photo taken through a Tiffen filter and another major brand. There are more important pictorial issues to worry about.

 

[Jos Segers]

But this then is a nonsense approach, by letting the camera compensate the filter. What do we learn from your graphik then?

As you and I know, this is a simple matter. Each of the B+W filters in my test have a specific filter factor which is supplied by the manufacturer. TTL metering will correct automatically for a specific filter factor. The result of these different exposures are the density values in the table. And from this it can be seen that there is little difference between a green filter and a yellow filter in the representation of the colour green.

 

[Sirius Glass]

But this then is a nonsense approach, by letting the camera compensate the filter. What do we learn from your graphik then?

I did that for decades but when I attended Alan Ross' class in Yosemite, he showed me that that method was not always accurate and that one should always use the filter factor.

 

[JPD]

A Leica green filter in 39mm for €40 https://www.ebay.de/itm/225161762849

Maybe GGr stands for Gelbgrün? It would still have an effect on foliage and the sky. Nice for portraits as well.

 

[eli griggs]

I thought I had posted about FSU filters being a good choice, in my experience, but, once again I suggest both 39mm and 42mm black and white contrast filters as good quality alternatives.

These are well made, I have both sizes, though the 39mm are generally, push on type, which is very quick on the fly, if your lens apature is on the face of the lens.

Another good alternative is older Zeiss 39mm filters. I have a few and they are still in good condition, and eBay is a good place to put a standing alert for finding any filter.

Lastly, clean, two inch Kodak Wratten Filters still give good service and if you decide to cut to round, and use a Series mounting adapter, you might even still use your lens hood, though metal and plastic lens hoods abound on eBay.

I happen to like the offerings of "heavystar".

Thinking about this, I suggest a spring adapter for gel filters, with barn doors or looking to see what hits the auction sites.

Good luck to all!