Nice SuperA. I have a nice Pentax Super PROGRAM and it looks to be a twin to your SuperA. What's the difference between the SuperA and the Super PROGRAM?
-
Welcome to Photrio!Registration is fast and free. Join today to unlock search, see fewer ads, and access all forum features.Click here to sign up
What's your latest new old camera ? (Part 2)
-
A
- Thread starter David A. Goldfarb
- Start date
Recent Classifieds
-
For Sale Berning Robot lenses and accessories
- Started by Manual Camera
-
For Sale Berning Robot Motor Recorder 24B + Schneider Xenon 50/1.9 _ rare German camera
- Started by Manual Camera
-
For Sale FS: Toyo Long Loupe 3.6X
- Started by B.S.Kumar
-
For Sale Berning Robot II + Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar _ vintage German motor drive 35mm camera
- Started by Manual Camera
Forum statistics
-
- Theo Sulphate
- Deleted
- Reason: Reply to spam.
Only the name. The Super Program is the U. S. version of the Super A.
Ah, that's what I kinda thought, but wasn't sure. I picked one up about three weeks ago at the local Salvation Army display case. I took a chance since there was no battery. The camera is near mint with a spotless 50mm f1.7, but the ever-ready case looks like "The case from Hell". Of course it did its job really well 'cause the camera shows no signs of abuse. I got batteries and powered her up and she works just fine. Not bad for $3.99. Pentax made good cameras and really fine glass to go with them. One of my favorite, if not my favorite, 50mm lenses is a M42 55mm f1.8. I love that lens to pieces. I have other 50mm's like the 50mm Summitar, Nikkors, Mamiya's, Petri's, 50mm 1.4 Takumar..... oh God I could go on and on, but that 55mm f1.8 has a look all of its own.
I picked the Pentax 50mm-1:2 smc lens on eBay for it. Very inexpensive purchase.
Pentax-M or A ?
Pentax-M
I bought it without prism without a lens for $40.00, most of the wear is on the baseplate, found a non-working Photomic Tn finder for $14.95 on Ebay and mated it with a couple of lenses I already had. $55.00 not bad.
A FED-1 (F) with an added PC socket. Whoever did this really knew what they were doing. No scratches or dents on the top plate from the addition.
A FED-1 (F) with an added PC socket. Whoever did this really knew what they were doing. No scratches or dents on the top plate from the addition.
[/
I have a Leica IIIA with the same top plate pc flash sync and it works perfect. Much better place for it than on the front or rear of the top plate.
After a truly horrible day at work, this magical little gem was waiting at my front door to brighten up my day.
Canon Canonet 28 in pretty much mint condition with a full CLA done. Came with an original Canonet camera strap that looks equally unused.
Cannot wait to load film now (once I put a battery adaptor and battery in).
Happy, happy
Canon Canonet 28 in pretty much mint condition with a full CLA done. Came with an original Canonet camera strap that looks equally unused.
Cannot wait to load film now (once I put a battery adaptor and battery in).
Happy, happy
Ansco Karomat with the Xenon 50/2
Not me Theo, I used to have several camera systems up until about the last time I moved to a smaller house 27 years ago when I rationalised my equipment and sold a lot of it and just kept the Canon FD S.L.R's , and because I don't collect cameras only use them it has made my life a lot simpler because I know I can pick up any lens I own and stick it on any body and I know it will work correctly.
A Kiev 4 with the f2 Jupiter 8, everready case, and the original lens cap! The camera is in very nice condition: the lens is spotless, shutter sounds good, body is really clean. The meter works, but .... well, I have several meters. I've loaded some Kentmere 400 for a test drive. My plan is to use it not only as a fun shooter, but also to share the Voigtlander 35mm and 21mm lenses I bought for my Nikon S2. Gotta learn the Contax grip! Interesting to shoot with a 1930's camera, built in 1972.
Sweet! I love the rapid advance, and the Xenon is a killer! I just missed scoring one of these. Will this take standard 35mm cassettes, or is it the one using the Agfa cassettes only? If you like folders, look for the Vitessa L with the f2 Ultron, the Zeiss Ikon Contessa, and of course the Kodak Retina with a Xenon or Heligon f2.Ansco Karomat with the Xenon 50/2
-
- Theo Sulphate
- Deleted
This is the US version of the Agfa Karat 36, which takes standard 35mm cassettes. And I do have the other three that you mentioned, although I am looking for someone who can repair the rangefinder on the Vitessa.
The FTb uses full aperture which relies on using the lever that transmit the actual aperture ring value to the camera.
This lever needs to be calibrated and i've seen many "new FD" 50/1.8 lenses that are off calibration by about 1/2 stop. You can test this by placing the lens on a Canon New F-1. The f-stop on the viewfinder should match the f-stop on the aperture ring. If they are off, this can be calibrated by disassembling the lens from the mount side. There is an adjustable stopper that adjust the linear relationship between the aperture ring on the lens and the aperture lever at the back of the lens.
If this calibration is off then the meter will not obtain the real aperture value.
On the other hand you may already be aware that the FTb meter requires a 1.3V battery. Use a #675 hearing-aid cell, which has the same voltage.
The other calibration that sometimes might be wrong is the calibration of the iris blades. The iris (diaphragm) blades sit on an assembly that can be rotated by loosening the 3 screws that hold such assembly (they are usually glued so they don't move). Rotating this assembly you change the actual f-stop of the lens relative to the aperture ring. Usually this is calibrated using special gauges but another easy way of calibrating it is using a known-good camera and calibrating (rotating) the assembly so at f2.8, f5.6 and f11 (or 16) the stop-down metering value is the same as the open-aperture metering value. Again, this is most easily done with a Canon New F-1.
Mind you, the New FD 50/1.8 was a very cheap lens so perhaps the factory calibration wasn't very demanding to begin with. On the other hand it is amazing that such a cheapily made lens could perform so good.
Nikkor lenses in general don't suffer these problems at all. But Canon FD lenses have more charisma and are more lovable
Picked up a fully working Pentax K1000 with a kit lens for £27 on eBay. The joys of poorly titled auctioned.
Took the Canonet 28 out for a stroll over the weekend and without anything to compare it to found the release a little "soft". Needed a longer press to get it to fire. Apart from that focusing was easy, film advance smooth and the camera really lovely to use.
I took a punt and purchased a QL17 G-III (not a bad price either) and a QL25 on eBay.
Last edited:
That is how I got a Canonet QL17 G-III for a really good, non mortgage price.
We will see if it is really in good order when it arrives.
I have just sold my D700 and a few little used lenses to buy a good, clean Bronica ETRSi, 40mm, and 150mm lenses. Add to that, a plain prism and an 80mm F4 Rodenstock Rodagon enlarging lens. I have not had a chance to use it yet, I am still waiting for film to arrive by post but raring to go. Hopefully tomorrow.
Looking at the prices of other Bronica lenses adding to what I have at the moment will not break the bank.
Looking at the prices of other Bronica lenses adding to what I have at the moment will not break the bank.
Good choice! Enjoy the Bronica system.
| Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links. To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here. |
PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:  |