What's Your Favorite Street Photography Camera?

[cooltouch]

I just picked up one of these. I think it is ideally suited for street photography/candids.

 

[RLangham]

Now, and this should go without saying, I've done my share of street photography with the things you're supposed to use: compact leaf-shutter rangefinders. I did some with my Retina IIf before it broke, I've done some with my Canonet 17. I've even used an Argus C3.

But to be honest, I've never been confronted or had people behave oddly when I used a full-sized film SLR, even a famously loud one like an SR-T. I've never used a TLR or SLR with WLF for street photography, and while I can see the advantage, I don't honestly feel like I need the discretion of WLF... At least not in New Orleans, which is where I do the majority of my street photography. People expect street photography in NO. A lot of exhibitionist clothing and brazen attitudes. I love it. Street musicians are especially fun subjects, and if you tip them, they're more than happy to be photographed, almost as a rule.

So to be honest, I do much of my street photography with a Nikkormat FTn. It's quiet for an SLR, you can take a meter reading at waist level, and the lens I have for it is fantastic--a NIKKOR-2 AUTO f:2 2cm from the original run of Nikon F. I'd upload an image I took last time I went to NO but apparently my scans are too big for the server to process.

I do regret that I never got the chance to use my Praktixa F.X3 for street photography with its WLF and Primoplan 58/1.9 before I needed money and sold them for the value of the lens alone.

 

[Donald Qualls]

@cooltouch I've got one of those, a 1970s vintage German-built model (with a few more dings than yours; I've had the top off several times to reset the meter linkage, which disconnects if the camera gets a hard bump). I've done most of my street shooting with a Canonet G-III QL17, but I've also used various Minolta 16 variants (almost invisible in the hand -- can't buy preloaded film any more, but I've got several cassettes I can reload), and a couple times an early post-War Super Ikonta B (6x6 coupled rangefinder folder). Also Ricoh Singlex II with Super Takumar 50/1.4 (M42 mount SLR, 1970s vintage, one of the earliest metal leaf focal plane shutters).

2007, Canonet G-III QL17, Superia Xtra 400, Dignan 2-bath C-41, Greensboro, NC

 

[RLangham]

@cooltouch I've got one of those, a 1970s vintage German-built model (with a few more dings than yours; I've had the top off several times to reset the meter linkage, which disconnects if the camera gets a hard bump). I've done most of my street shooting with a Canonet G-III QL17, but I've also used various Minolta 16 variants (almost invisible in the hand -- can't buy preloaded film any more, but I've got several cassettes I can reload), and a couple times an early post-War Super Ikonta B (6x6 coupled rangefinder folder). Also Ricoh Singlex II with Super Takumar 50/1.4 (M42 mount SLR, 1970s vintage, one of the earliest metal leaf focal plane shutters).

View attachment 242883
2007, Canonet G-III QL17, Superia Xtra 400, Dignan 2-bath C-41, Greensboro, NC

I actually wandered into an antique store about a year ago and came upon the original metal-leaf focal plane camera: the Nikkorex F. It was built by Mamiya for Nikon as an extension of Nikon's budget line of fixed-lens SLR's, the Nikkorex series. But this was no fixed-lens POS... this was the most solid and well-built SLR I had ever seen, with an F-mount and a pristine Nikkor-S 5cm f/2 Auto (the original Nikon F kit lens with the flat front element) mounted on it. Inside, the original Copal Square in its first public outing. Needless to say I cut into grocery money to buy it.

It's the camera that inspired the first Nikkormats a few years later, though the shutter in a Nikkormat F-series (FT, FTn, FS, et cetera) is a Nikon-made modified Copal Square design with the levers on the inside.

Unfortunately, my Nikkorex is useless for street photography, as the shutter releases with a loud "clang" identical to that produced by some Argus C3's. It is the camera, however, where I first got good at manually judging exposure. Nowadays I've mostly retired it and use the lens that came with it on a finicky old Nikkormat FTn.

 

[Scott Murphy]

I like the Hasselblad 500CM but the Nikon F4E is easier to use, and a good bit quieter than the F2A and motor, and I have far more choices in terms of lens selection

 

[cooltouch]

@cooltouch I've got one of those, a 1970s vintage German-built model (with a few more dings than yours; I've had the top off several times to reset the meter linkage, which disconnects if the camera gets a hard bump). I've done most of my street shooting with a Canonet G-III QL17, but I've also used various Minolta 16 variants (almost invisible in the hand -- can't buy preloaded film any more, but I've got several cassettes I can reload), and a couple times an early post-War Super Ikonta B (6x6 coupled rangefinder folder). Also Ricoh Singlex II with Super Takumar 50/1.4 (M42 mount SLR, 1970s vintage, one of the earliest metal leaf focal plane shutters).

Hey Donald, well I do agree with a couple of your choices -- the Canonet G-III QL17 and the Super Ikonta B. I own a couple of the QL-17s and a Super Ikonta BX, late with the Synchro Compur shutter and coated lens. The QL-17 is an outstanding camera for most anything, but it does excel on the street. And the Super Ikonta -- well, I call it a "pocket Hasselblad" because that is, in essence, what it is. I too have used my SI BX in a few street situations and I find that its bulk isn't really a factor. I can "play around with it" or so people think, when I'm actually taking photos. As long as I don't bring it up to my eye to focus, and just range focus instead, people are none the wiser as to what's going on.

 

[blockend]

If street photography is defined by the ability to perceive and capture a fleeting moment in time, a street camera should be able to be lifted to the eye with a minimum of effort. Second is an ability to focus or pre-focus the subject instantaneously. SP consists of trappers and stalkers. If you're the latter, you'll need a light, quick camera.

 

[warden]

I just picked up one of these. I think it is ideally suited for street photography/candids.

I've wanted one of those for years. Congrats!

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

Rolleiflex TLR. Phenomenal picture-taking lens, near silent (so completely inobtrusive), and even when you're spotted with it, many people will smile and respond positively (even if they do mistakenly identify it as a Hasselblad because it's the only camera name they know besides Canon and Nikon, which they know by the form factor that it isn't one of those).

 

[Donald Qualls]

I think I'm going to get some street photos out of my Kiev 4M once the streets are open to people again -- shutter's so quiet I can barely hear it with my face against the camera, and if I don't need to change exposure I can focus with SLR accuracy in a second or so. Getting the "Contax grip" sorted out -- haven't covered the RF window the last 4-5 times I raised the camera. With a 35 mm Jupiter-12 I should be able to shoot from the hip, like I've done for decades with other small 35 mm cameras.

 

[RLangham]

I think I'm going to get some street photos out of my Kiev 4M once the streets are open to people again -- shutter's so quiet I can barely hear it with my face against the camera, and if I don't need to change exposure I can focus with SLR accuracy in a second or so. Getting the "Contax grip" sorted out -- haven't covered the RF window the last 4-5 times I raised the camera. With a 35 mm Jupiter-12 I should be able to shoot from the hip, like I've done for decades with other small 35 mm cameras.

Yes, I saw a Zenography video on various Kievs recently... the shutter on the recording sounded whisper quiet (except with the slow-speed timer engaged, of course.) I didn't know it was that quiet. You must have an example that's been maintained!

In all honesty, I think a Kiev (the kind without the meter. I get the model numbers mixed up) might be my next Russian camera. They're so... camera-looking, and the shutter is a very attractive feature.

 

[Black Dog]

Rolleiflex TLR. Phenomenal picture-taking lens, near silent (so completely inobtrusive), and even when you're spotted with it, many people will smile and respond positively (even if they do mistakenly identify it as a Hasselblad because it's the only camera name they know besides Canon and Nikon, which they know by the form factor that it isn't one of those).

Yes- I love my Rolleicord, which is the Aldi version so to speak and it's been giving me sterling service in Edinburgh recently. I have fond memories of the ITAH thread!=

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yes, I saw a Zenography video on various Kievs recently... the shutter on the recording sounded whisper quiet (except with the slow-speed timer engaged, of course.) I didn't know it was that quiet. You must have an example that's been maintained!

In all honesty, I think a Kiev (the kind without the meter. I get the model numbers mixed up) might be my next Russian camera. They're so... camera-looking, and the shutter is a very attractive feature.

I think mine was CLA'd before the Russian or Ukrainian seller put it up on eBay (and no, I haven't checked it with a Geiger counter, but there can't have been many of these cameras in the exclusion zone anyway). Meter is accurate, shutter timings seem right, even though the slow ones look weird (I've seen multiple sources that say the original Contax II and III ran the shutter at a slower travel speed below 1/25), everything functions as it should. Won't know how accurate the RF is until I get the first film processed, which will be after I get more bottles and a CineStill C-41 powder kit (inexpensive, good capacity, not ORM-D so can ship Priority etc., and ships cheaper because not mailing a bunch of water).

As I recall, the Kiev 2 and 3 were exact duplicates of the Contax II and III respectively (Contax III had the high profile meter -- I've seen a video on YouTube titled "World's Tallest Rangefinder" about the Kiev 3). The Kiev 4A is no meter with a few minor changes that probably made it less expensive to build (deleted the fold-out foot by the tripod socket, for instance), and the Kiev 4M is the same with a meter, but lower profile, more like the meter on a post-War Contax IIIa. The 4M is the one I have. There were also some shutter changes, not necessarily tied to models -- at some point they went from 1250 top speed to 1000 (probably without actually changing anything mechanically; I strongly doubt they were ever faster than 1/1000). The 4 models have a two-position rewind button; push a little and you can double expose (shutter cocks but film doesn't advance), push further and it unlocks the takeup and sprockets for rewind.

 

[RLangham]

I think mine was CLA'd before the Russian or Ukrainian seller put it up on eBay (and no, I haven't checked it with a Geiger counter, but there can't have been many of these cameras in the exclusion zone anyway). Meter is accurate, shutter timings seem right, even though the slow ones look weird (I've seen multiple sources that say the original Contax II and III ran the shutter at a slower travel speed below 1/25), everything functions as it should. Won't know how accurate the RF is until I get the first film processed, which will be after I get more bottles and a CineStill C-41 powder kit (inexpensive, good capacity, not ORM-D so can ship Priority etc., and ships cheaper because not mailing a bunch of water).

As I recall, the Kiev 2 and 3 were exact duplicates of the Contax II and III respectively (Contax III had the high profile meter -- I've seen a video on YouTube titled "World's Tallest Rangefinder" about the Kiev 3). The Kiev 4A is no meter with a few minor changes that probably made it less expensive to build (deleted the fold-out foot by the tripod socket, for instance), and the Kiev 4M is the same with a meter, but lower profile, more like the meter on a post-War Contax IIIa. The 4M is the one I have. There were also some shutter changes, not necessarily tied to models -- at some point they went from 1250 top speed to 1000 (probably without actually changing anything mechanically; I strongly doubt they were ever faster than 1/1000). The 4 models have a two-position rewind button; push a little and you can double expose (shutter cocks but film doesn't advance), push further and it unlocks the takeup and sprockets for rewind.

Yes, CineStill quart kits are all I use. I can get about 20 rolls out of one, with the odd 120 roll thrown in. You know you can mix the bleach and the fixer separately?

And the video you mention is Zenography, one of the ones I was alluding to. I appreciate his work because he's really very interested in the aesthetics of cameras, and he takes his time talking about the performance of the camera and the lens, doesn't hurry through it.

Did you try testing the RF with a piece of scotch tape across the film gate with the shutter open? As long as the tape is taut and where the film would go, it should tell you something.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yes, CineStill quart kits are all I use. I can get about 20 rolls out of one, with the odd 120 roll thrown in. You know you can mix the bleach and the fixer separately?

<snip>

Did you try testing the RF with a piece of scotch tape across the film gate with the shutter open? As long as the tape is taut and where the film would go, it should tell you something.

Yes, that's why the blix comes as two components. Bleach regenerates with air -- aquarium pump and airstone and you can double the life of your bleach, if not more. Any rapid fixer will work for fixer -- but no one seems to sell Color Developer by itself any more. Last time I did color, I could buy all the Flexicolor chemicals I wanted, but now nobody seems to have them in stock. Only the small quantity kits -- though $25 for 20 rolls doesn't seem all that bad. Might be low enough I won't feel like I need to mix my own developer.

I first tested focus with frosted tape across the film gate on a Kodak Reflex II in about 1975. I just didn't think to do it with this camera before I loaded it. For that matter, even with my microscope eyes, on a 35 mm frame, it's hard to tell well enough without an actual loupe.

 

[RLangham]

Yes, that's why the blix comes as two components. Bleach regenerates with air -- aquarium pump and airstone and you can double the life of your bleach, if not more. Any rapid fixer will work for fixer -- but no one seems to sell Color Developer by itself any more. Last time I did color, I could buy all the Flexicolor chemicals I wanted, but now nobody seems to have them in stock. Only the small quantity kits -- though $25 for 20 rolls doesn't seem all that bad. Might be low enough I won't feel like I need to mix my own developer.

I first tested focus with frosted tape across the film gate on a Kodak Reflex II in about 1975. I just didn't think to do it with this camera before I loaded it. For that matter, even with my microscope eyes, on a 35 mm frame, it's hard to tell well enough without an actual loupe.

Don't you have a loupe, though? I find any 50mm lens does excellent service as one. Anyways, as for my Kodak Reflex I, unfortunately the shutter froze up entirely, after being unreliable for over a year.

And do try bleach bypass sometime, if you haven't. I love the look but I can't scan it reliably.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I haven't dug up most of my darkroom equipment or my M42 SLRs and lenses yet. It'll come. I could probably reverse my 25 mm telescope eyepiece and get good results, or take the Jupiter 8 off my Kiev 4M...

The beauty of bleach bypass -- you can undo it if you don't like it. Just put the film back in the tank and give it the stock bleach and fix, and there you have it.

 

[RLangham]

I haven't dug up most of my darkroom equipment or my M42 SLRs and lenses yet. It'll come. I could probably reverse my 25 mm telescope eyepiece and get good results, or take the Jupiter 8 off my Kiev 4M...

The beauty of bleach bypass -- you can undo it if you don't like it. Just put the film back in the tank and give it the stock bleach and fix, and there you have it.

I had quite forgotten that! Of course it would follow logically but I wasn't even thinking about it. There is the trouble that that becomes a little more difficult to do once you have cut them for use on a home film scanner, but there's always developing trays...

 

[Arthurwg]

I would love to do some street photography but in my small town there's precious little going on in the street these days....

 

[Вormental_old]

Great thread, I enjoyed reading everyone's responses before contributing. I really like the separation of street photography into "traps" and "stalking". For trapping people, i.e. finding an interesting angle and "placing" a person into the context, maybe even asking them to pose, I love my Mamiya C330 TLR. Everyone loves the TLR! Yes it's bulky and slow and you have to pre-focus ahead of time and stop down the lens somewhat, but the entire process is quite enjoyable.

For stalking, I agree: one needs the most lightweight camera, something you can raise to the eye level quickly. Leica, or any rangefinder, is hard to beat here. SLRs are clunkier because transitioning from "live view" to the viewfinder is not as seamless with them, especially if using wide/tele lenses.

I also have a confession to make: the best stalker camera is a small waist-level camera, and I'm not aware of any film cameras than can do that, so my best candid shots are all digital.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I would love to do some street photography but in my small town there's precious little going on in the street these days....

Yep, and it's looking more and more like we'll have another lockdown. I haven't missed a day of work (essential industry, and we're swamped), but there were a few weeks there when it looked like New Year's Morning on my way to work every day...

 

[Donald Qualls]

I also have a confession to make: the best stalker camera is a small waist-level camera, and I'm not aware of any film cameras than can do that, so my best candid shots are all digital.

If you have the eyes for it, there are some early Exakta cameras with waist level finders on 35mm SLRs. Down side is, they're mainly going to have "preset" lenses -- only an Exakta-specific automatic lens (with the stop-down mechanism in the lens) will avoid that. An alternative is a wide angle that you can hip-shoot. Or a 127 TLR -- all the "cute" factor of a TLR, but less than half the weight. Some really good ones out there, if you don't mind cutting film for them (as a bonus, you can get 16 frames in a 4x4 camera originally expecting 12, with recut 120 film, and the off-cut strip can make two Minolta 16 reloads -- now there's a "stalking" camera). You might also look at the Tessina -- 35mm TLR with sub-sized cassettes, small enough they made a wrist mount for it. The cassettes are hard to find, but cameras usually come with one or two and they're reusable.

 

[Вormental_old]

Donald, I have not tried, but an optical 35mm WLF will not only be super-mall to see through, but it also inverses the image, which makes it challenging to shoot quickly. Digital flip-screen in super-easy to see and people are not even aware you're taking photos. You look like someone tinkering with a camera, so I honestly do not know how to take a candid like shown below on film.

 

[PFGS]

Another vote for TLR. I'm convinced nothing's better for soothing a wary populace than presenting them with my nascent bald spot while I fiddle with an antiquated machine's WLF like an obviously harmless loon.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I honestly do not know how to take a candid like shown below on film.

Back in my day, we'd use a TLR for that shot. Seriously.

You turn the TLR sideways, and it looks to the casual observer who isn't paying too much attention like you're shooting something in a different direction.

Alternatively, get a mirror mount for the lens on your waist level SLR, and you solve two problems -- you're facing at right angle to the subject, and the mirror reversal in your WLF is corrected. Or just use the waist level enough to get used to it (he says, having first used a waist level finder in 1968 or so...).