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Discussion in 'B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry' started by k.hendrik, Mar 8, 2018.
Only subscribers can see gallery pictures. Post your positive and negative images in this thread and more people will see them.
looks like dust / sediment on all your film
Dust on the film or undissolved particles in you developer
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/k-hendrik/media/what went wrong 3_zpsu9r3wo8c.jpg.html
Thanks so far; developer is fresh later films in same soup went well.
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Can we see a photo of the negative itself?
Is there any indication of the problem on the surface of the negative?
http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/k-hendrik/media/what went wrong 4_zpsiz4icndl.jpg.html
on the negative white snow fresh fix too later film went spotless.
On the negative, or in the negative?
when I look with my magnifing spec I see there is a kind of grain on the film and 'holes' in the neg.
Sounds like some sort of contaminant at the time of development.
Can you describe you complete process? Not how it is done theoretically but how you effectively processed.
Temperature (all bath same temperature?)
Rotation, agitation or stand development
Rollei retro 80s (120)> D76 1+1> 20C >4 s agitation per 30 sec.> 13'> stopbath 1' agitation> fix 15' every 5' agitation > 30' water rinse > dip in anti-lime bath> hang to dry.
You say you see “holes” in the negatives.
1) What exactly is your stop bath and what is the dilution?
2) Likewise what is the “anti-lime” bath?
3) You also say subsequent films had no problems. Were they the same type of film?
It is possible the stop bath was too strong and caused tiny pin holes in the emulsion. Some films are more vulnerable to this than others. The emulsion of Rollei Retro 80S is thin (it is on a PET base).
The other possibility is something sticking to the emulsion. If it was dust on the film before development this would readily stick to the wet emulsion and become embedded. This could prevent developer reaching spots of the emulsion (causing areas of relative low density) but it would still be stuck there when the film was dried. If this had happened then why would there be uniform black dots on the positive image? Wouldn't there be some difference between highlight and shadow areas?
Or perhaps it is a really bad problem with bubbles during processing but I can't fathom why. Or damp backing paper damaging the emulsion in some way.
Hendrik, try to scan a negative and upload the negative image to this thread. If your software automatically produces a positive there is usually some setting to "invert". The photo bucket image you uploaded is basically useless (can't zoom in at all). Not your fault! If you can't post here try Flickr.
One last suggestion, since your film is ruined anyway. Load a few frames on a reel, re-fix and re-wash them. It won't do any harm and it doesn't take much time.
acetic acid 3% > Amaloco H10 > different film: 1x 135 HP5 400, 1x 127 HP5 400, both handspooled.
this will do ?
OK so it seems to be narrowed down to just this roll of Rollei 80S and not subsequent films that were different (HP5+). It seems less likely to be a problem with your process and more likely a problem with the actual film. I am not sure what the actual problem is. Possibly backing paper issue. Still possibly pinholes from the acid stop bath (but it has never affected any Rollei 80S I have used and I too use a standard acid stop bath). If you have any more Rollei 80S I'd suggest you shot another roll of it as a test and see if the problem recurs. If it does it might be worth making enquiries with the manufacturer.
I really wonder how effective a forum analysis can ever be because most of the time we can only give a range of different suggestions but I'd agree with Svenedin and others who have said your process looks OK. From what you have told us it looks as if this particular film may be the problem.
All I would add is that apparently some films are sensitive to even dilute acid stopbath and your 3% acetic acid seems quite strong. If these are holes then I don't think there is anything you can do now. For the future you might want to consider water stopbath only. I stopped using acid stopbaths many years ago on all films on a "just in case" basis. Some films are very tough and I would place all Ilford films in this category but other films might not be so tough.
Yes, some films are definitely more likely to suffer damage in acidic stop baths. I am not sure whether Rollei films have such a reputation (some Foma films do). If the problem happens again on another roll of 80S then a solution is to just use a different film (unless you are very attached to 80S). Ilford FP4+ has a more "classic" look (if that is what you want) than the more modern films and it's bomb proof.
The Rollei 80S as such actually was made by Agfa for military reconnaisance and thus was designed to be robust in processing. Coating was high-end too.
Remains the conversion by Maco into rollfilm.
Thanks all for the efforts you put in! I will do a search in my archives if this happend before with this Roolei 80s I don't use it very often but remember some years ago I did ?! btw Rollei retro 400s never had this problem.
Whats is this anti lime bath? If it is a mild acid to dissolve lime deposits from the water it could produce carbon dioxide bubbles in the emulsion. Most effective is a soak in distilled water or a distilled/alcohol mix to hasten drying.
anti-lime bath= between 2-5 ml to 1L. distilled water so that is very mild.
But what does the 2-5ml consist of?
Is it something like Kodak Photoflo or Ilford's version of wetting agent (which don't have any "anti-lime" characteristics)?
consist: 5-chlor-2-methyl-2H-isothiazol-3-on(EG nr.247-500-7)&2-Methyl-2Hisothiazol-3-on(EG nr. 220-239-6(3:l)/kathon mixture..................
Chemists, please speak up .
Is this a branded product?