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what waS your last photography related purchase?

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Don't do it. Make a pin hole in a lens board.

I've already done that, in fact, I have several. I've always used my LF camera... I miss my TravelWide 45, which could take a 90mm lens or pinhole. Sadly the focusing helicoid imploded rendering body no longer light tight (was a serious design flaw which you probably heard all about). The Cosmos is similar to the TravelWide, minus helicoid.
 
I've already done that, in fact, I have several. I've always used my LF camera... I miss my TravelWide 45, which could take a 90mm lens or pinhole. Sadly the focusing helicoid imploded rendering body no longer light tight (was a serious design flaw which you probably heard all about). The Cosmos is similar to the TravelWide, minus helicoid.

:mad:
 
Patterson triple tank and pack of 6 reels. Ability to develope 120 films in pairs the main reason. 6 reel pack much the same as three individually so a no brainer and at least I have a spare to cut down to 16mm to try out the 110 cameras I recent bought as a cheap auction bundle.

Also for 2x120 or 3 x 35 takes a straight 1 litre so looks a good option for my soon to be attempted colour processing!

Patterson and AP reels are definitely interchangeable I have discovered.
 
The AP reels at least work well when one loads two 120 films on the same reel. For black and white at least, you need to limit how much you use rotation to agitate, at least during the development stage.
And by the way, in the interests of pedantry, it is Paterson (one "t" only) :smile:
 
Birch plywood, stain, and some misc. hardware to make a flatbed for my 8x10 portrait camera project.
 
Alt process guy, me, who read an article on an experiment conducted by Ethan Brossard and his work with salt paper sensitized to the visible spectrum at 500 nm or so, piqued my interest. Did he just solve the age old questions revolving around actinic processes and enlargers? Don't know but I scrambled out the door and drove to a local antique store to buy an Omega Dii for 25 bucks just to find out. Even if it becomes a trellis for the morning glories growing out back... it's worth a shot.
 
I know it’s probably (certainly) toast but I couldn’t help myself.

Note: ASA 80, Nov 1974

B7EAFD82-EE95-4185-83DE-0BEF06B0EDCB.jpeg
 
At one time I owned a silver Voigtlander 50 2.5 Color Skopar LTM. It was bundled in a sale with a lot of other gear. About a month ago, I packed a box for KEH with nothing really in mind. When it was time to decide, I was looking at all kinds of different gear when I came across a black 50 2.5 Color Skopar, which I thought would be a good match with the M4-2. It's in almost pristine shape but is missing the original hood.

 
Alt process guy, me, who read an article on an experiment conducted by Ethan Brossard and his work with salt paper sensitized to the visible spectrum at 500 nm or so, piqued my interest. Did he just solve the age old questions revolving around actinic processes and enlargers? Don't know but I scrambled out the door and drove to a local antique store to buy an Omega Dii for 25 bucks just to find out. Even if it becomes a trellis for the morning glories growing out back... it's worth a shot.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!
 
1 Qt Triethanolamine 99% (TEA)
5 packs Fujicolor Superia X-TRA 400 36 Exposure 3 Pack
 
Two 4 litre bottles of distilled water. How can they afford to sell one of these for $1.27 CDN?

Because they cost less than CDN$0.50 to produce, bottle, label, and ship. Feedstock is nearly free (probably just power to pump from a deep well somewhere), basic filtration costs a penny a gallon or less, the only real cost before the jug is the electricity to evaporate the water -- a few cents a gallon if you're not in a region with coal- or natural gas-fired power.
 
Unable to get my hands on Ferrania's Orto for who knows how long... So, P30, and a box of Frankenstein sheet film are in my shopping cart...
 
My wife, the artist, broke my 1980 Dahle guillotine cutter, so I ordered exact same model from Dahle North America, should be here Thursday. She can deal with the old one, needs the spring, she took off for the guard. Still sharp, self sharpening, I need to call and get the parts.

These have clamp to hold the work 👍
 
A one gallon jug of distilled water. If I measure carefully it is just enough to develop and wash three rolls of 35mm film: 245ml for developer, 250ml for stop, 250ml x 3 for wash. I reuse my fixer, when I mix a fresh I liter batch I only get two rolls out of the gallon.
 
A one gallon jug of distilled water. If I measure carefully it is just enough to develop and wash three rolls of 35mm film: 245ml for developer, 250ml for stop, 250ml x 3 for wash. I reuse my fixer, when I mix a fresh I liter batch I only get two rolls out of the gallon.

Why do you wash with distilled water?
 
You do know that's C-22, right?

To be honest, my flash bulb did not light up when I read « Kodacolor-X », however, I was planning on processing it in B/W chemistry anyway.
 
I used to do this because my tap water was leaving residue on my negatives...

I have very hard water, but I found it sufficient to wash with tap water, but the final bath with the photoflo in it was distilled water. But I can imagine worse water that needs several baths of distilled to wash away the stuff in the tap.
 
very hard water

Yep, this is the culprit. If you don't trust your tap water, you can process two rolls of 35 mm or 120 (end to end on the same reel) in a Paterson tank with one gallon of distilled water -- which used to cost 79 cents US when I did it this way.
 
Yep, this is the culprit. If you don't trust your tap water, you can process two rolls of 35 mm or 120 (end to end on the same reel) in a Paterson tank with one gallon of distilled water -- which used to cost 79 cents US when I did it this way.

Yes, it all depends on your water source. Since one cannot control their local water distribution, it PhotoFlo or other surfactant does not work, then one must use distilled water. Probably cheaper than moving.
 
it PhotoFlo or other surfactant does not work, then one must use distilled water.

Deionized should work equally well, and once you're amortized the filter system, is significantly cheaper. I have reverse osmosis DI water available (got the system for my partner's reef aquarium), I use it for all concentrate and stock solution mixing, though our well water, while hard, is otherwise good enough I use tap water for everything else and LFN does a fine job of ensuring the water sheets off instead of making spots.
 
I use Britta filtered water to mix the stock dilutions of the developers (paper and film).
Britta filter purifies tapwater into better tasting and a somewhat cleaner drink water.
At the end of processing paper or film, I give these a Sistan bath (is Adostab now, witch contains an ersatz Agepon too).
Washing is done with tapwater witch should be 'clean' enough over here (considering the cost of it...).

So, one can say that my last photography related purchase was a box of 6 new Britta filter cartridges...
 
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