what waS your last photography related purchase?

[Cholentpot]

Stearman SP-445.

Moved from 35mm/120 to 2x3 to 4x5 in a matter of a few weeks. I don't really know what to do with the massive negatives as I DSLR scan and I don't have a darkroom setup as of now. Next thing is a scanner of some sort I guess...

 

[JensH]

Hi,

just 20 rolls of Ilford PF4Plus and PMK developer.
There still seems to be a shortage on Ilford films, the shop could only send me seven films...

Best
Jens

 

[Donald Qualls]

Next thing is a scanner of some sort I guess...

Even a modest, outdated flatbed (like my Epson Perfection 4870, using modified 4990 film holders) can pull more than a gigapixel out of a 4x5 negative. If you don't need files that big, you could just stick with your DSLR setup.

 

[Cholentpot]

Even a modest, outdated flatbed (like my Epson Perfection 4870, using modified 4990 film holders) can pull more than a gigapixel out of a 4x5 negative. If you don't need files that big, you could just stick with your DSLR setup.

Thanks, I know nothing of scanners. I'll keep an eye out of one.

DSLR scans make these massive TIFF files. They're huge. Granted I'm stitching a dozen RAW files together.

 

[Donald Qualls]

@Cholentpot You'll get pretty much the same thing with a flatbed, so no point spending money. All you need is a bigger light panel (assuming the one you have isn't already 60 mm wide and at least 90mm long, with even light all the way across) and more patience. A flatbed will be less work, but won't give any better results than DSLR scanning with stitching. If you have a setup that will give you 30+ megapixels from a 34mm negative, you'll be dropping hundreds of dollars to try to get a scanner that will do better.

 

[Cholentpot]

@Cholentpot You'll get pretty much the same thing with a flatbed, so no point spending money. All you need is a bigger light panel (assuming the one you have isn't already 60 mm wide and at least 90mm long, with even light all the way across) and more patience. A flatbed will be less work, but won't give any better results than DSLR scanning with stitching. If you have a setup that will give you 30+ megapixels from a 34mm negative, you'll be dropping hundreds of dollars to try to get a scanner that will do better.

I have a Canon T2i and a 100 2.8 Macro tethered to LR. I shoot on a nice sized tracing pad.

Part of my reservations is understanding LF photography. Instead of scanning 39 photos I'm scanning one or two. All the work I would put into the 39 goes to this one or two photos. I just need to make the mental transition. As of now I get some really high rez out of 6x6 through 6x9. It just takes time and dedication.

As for this thread.

My latest purchases that just came in the mail are a 3 watt red LED bulb and some Xray film. Now I need to lightproof a room.

 

[Donald Qualls]

My latest purchases that just came in the mail are a 3 watt red LED bulb and some Xray film. Now I need to lightproof a room.

Good plan!

 

[Cholentpot]

Good plan!

How lightproof is lightproof though?

I've been reading through old APUG threads on this. I can't block every last proton but I think I'll be ok.

 

[MattKing]

How lightproof is lightproof though?

I've been reading through old APUG threads on this. I can't block every last proton but I think I'll be ok.

The proton's aren't the problem ones.
It is those pesky photons that matter!
Work at night with the kids distracted elsewhere!
Same goes for spouses and pets.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Not to mention that even for film (loading or tray development) your room doesn't have to be absolutely, deep in a limestone cave dark, just dark enough so it will take many minutes to fog the film.

My old darkroom would get light enough I could see my hand in the glow from my Gralab timer's hands, scattered off the bathroom wallpaper, yet even tray developing sheet film was fine. My new one apparently either has slightly glow in the dark primer on the door I had installed (remotely possible; I should probably get around to painting it), or the door passes enough light through the panels from the room outside to let me see my hands against the opposite wall by its glow -- but I've seen no evidence of film fogging in the time it takes to load 120, one roll after another, on a Paterson reel, even the first few times I did it after more than a decade away.

 

[Cholentpot]

The proton's aren't the problem ones.
It is those pesky photons that matter!
Work at night with the kids distracted elsewhere!
Same goes for spouses and pets.

The attic. I convinced the kids it's haunted. Pets are dead.

Not to mention that even for film (loading or tray development) your room doesn't have to be absolutely, deep in a limestone cave dark, just dark enough so it will take many minutes to fog the film.

My old darkroom would get light enough I could see my hand in the glow from my Gralab timer's hands, scattered off the bathroom wallpaper, yet even tray developing sheet film was fine. My new one apparently either has slightly glow in the dark primer on the door I had installed (remotely possible; I should probably get around to painting it), or the door passes enough light through the panels from the room outside to let me see my hands against the opposite wall by its glow -- but I've seen no evidence of film fogging in the time it takes to load 120, one roll after another, on a Paterson reel, even the first few times I did it after more than a decade away.

I always figured that if 400 speed film comes out black at f/16 1 second indoors a nice dark room should do pretty well with slow film. When I worked on the former Kodak grounds former Kodak employees told me that 120 film is spooled up by hand and they use very dim green indirect lights. IR film was done in complete dark though, they did not like IR days.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Yep. It's surprising just how little light you need to see your hands and handle light color objects against a dark background, if that light is close to the eye's sensitivity peak (around 550 nm, yellow-green). To put it another way, starlight, without any light pollution or moon, is too bright for your eyes to fully dark adapt. And compared to other mammals and non-mammals, our vision is no great shakes (cats, for instance, can see in several stops dimmer light than we can).

 

[eli griggs]

I prefer the darkest darkroom I can manage, meaning ALL BLACKED OUT, and I won't bother to describe the effort that takes, in some situations.

My current darkroom is tomb dark and small enough I can pretty much simply reach out and pick-up or put-down items without error. Closing your eyes really does helps with this type muscle memory/work routine and there is just no all that much to do, even when loading/unloading sheet films.

My last camera related buys, a F with fungus lens, slide boxes with some slide mounts, a years membership, here at Photrio.com, more small tools, from Whia and Vessel, for camera repairs.

I still have to find a few quality tweezers, since my really great, pinpoint pair, went walk-about, and other odd kit,film, chemistry and, perhaps papers.

Be Safe, Be Well and Godspeed to you all,
Eli

 

[Donald Qualls]

Most recent purchase: a full set of Flexicolor chemistry. LORR Developer Starter, LORR Developer Replenisher (5 L size), Bleach Replenisher (works with no start, I'm told), Fixer Replenisher (same). Shipping weight for two boxes: 37 lb. Now I just need space to store the concentrate jugs and tank solution bottles...

 

[removed account4]

some chemicals and some film, and some bookbinding supplies

 

[Bormental]

Mamiya 110mm f/2.8 N lens for the 645 system. I have been keeping an eye for one on eBay for 2+ months and finally found one in Exc+ condition (Keh rating) for $100 less than Japanese sellers had been asking.

I have been told this lens is "magical". I have a roll of HP5+ ready to be developed this weekend to confirm.

 

[fdonadio]

I don't know... I'm hope I haven't made my last photo-related purchase.

It’s important to keep buying. You never know when your last purchase will be.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Just today, I bought two negative carriers for my Omega D enlargers, 6x6 (to replace the 6x6 I converted to 6x9 years ago) and 6x7 (which I've never owned).

 

[Donald Qualls]

I hope this will be good...

I just snagged a Gralab 525 digital timer on eBay -- $65 shipped. If it works as it should, it'll be a big step up from a dial with a buzzer that can't be set closer than nearest second...

 

[eddie]

Not the most romantic of photo purchases, but a sump pump for my darkroom. I've had some flooding issues which forced me to move everything out of the darkroom. Now, I'm waiting to have the basement exterior door replaced so I can get back up and running.

 

[Ian Grant]

A sheet of 3mm Aluminium to make lens boards for a De Vere 10x8 monorail camera.

Ian

 

[logan2z]

Just picked up a 28mm Leica finder (SLOOZ, great name ) to use on my M4. Glad I went with the metal variety.

 

[wahiba]

An Olympus IS-500 for £5 off eBay. 28 - 120 fixed zoom SLR. fully automatic. Kentmere 100 through it and processed in Caffenol. Every picture fine on a nice sunny day. Bit of a lump the camera but optics seem pretty good. Weird that these cameras are cheap while the compacts from Olympus go for much much more. If you are happy with an automatic and do not mind a proper big camera the ability to frame as you go makes it worthwhile. I might even try a role of Ektachrome through it.

Samples from the other day. Taken on a local walk. Scanned at 4800dpi on Epson V300 hardly any alteration on Photoshop Elements. Even virtually eliminated white spots by filtering fixer through a coffee filter.

 

[pbromaghin]

12-led plant grow bulb for the temporary bathroom darkroom. It uses only 12 watts and emits only 660-670nm light so it is invisible to all Harman B&W papers. Tried it out in the bathroom with the lights off and HOLY CRAP IT'S BRIGHT. I'll be able to see a lot better than I was expecting.

 

[removed account4]

some craft paper to draw a giant map on