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what waS your last photography related purchase?

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I retired two years ago. I have kinda bought a bunch of stuff. Most of it is old weird stuff, which is more fun than new expensive stuff. Although new expensive stuff is fun too. Last thing I bought was a couple A544 batteries for my RZ 67 II (s). :smile:
 
No money after the marriage and absolutely no money after a small house and only thing I can do is keep watching all those good offers pass by me.

Other day a Rolleicord V sold for €54. At-least in photos it looked great.

Sad neurons keep firing...
 
jay moussy said:
@Donald Qualls no, it is the traditional plastic bottle,500 ml, from Freestyle.
I may transfer into a rubber cap brown beer bottle to slow down the oxygen exposure. Maybe.

Is there such a thing as developer pods... like Tide?l
Click to expand...

Tetenal and Ilford offer single-roll or single-tank chemical "sachets" -- intended as convenience items, since you don't need to store bottles or worry about oxidation in an opened bottle, or as "give it a try" starter sets (no need to spend $50 on chemicals to find out if you like it). I think Ilford even has a choice of a couple developers in that format. it's very much the expensive way to do it, but so is buying chips at the gas station vs. the grocery store. It's done because it saves a stop. Chemical sachets exist because they save storage, time, and mistakes (no precision measuring of chemical concentrates). Measure water, open and pour in the sachets, stir, and process.
 
A Durst Codrum to develop 8x10 without a Darkroom. My changing bag ist just big enough to get the film holder unloaded and the sheet of film transferred into the drum. So the next purchase is a bigger changing bag.
 
Makiflex Heliar Auto 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

A new to me Makiflex Auto arrived today from Prague. This one came with the Voigtlander Heliar 210mm F4.5 in Makiflex Auto iris. I've been watching this camera for years, decided to pull the trigger. So now I have three Auto Makiflexes and a Makiflex Standard. I really wanted the Heliar Auto lens............... I'll clean it up as I have time and it will go into rotation with my other cameras.

This one has over 26,000 actuations and has been customized a bit. Quite interesting
 
Another bottle of Rodinal and HC110. Need the HC110 and the Rodinal is starting to get low. I have been trying to wean myself off of store bought developers but I can't seem to get by without these two on my shelf. I guess it is a dependency.

But, these are the only developers that I buy off the shelf any longer. I mix up everything else myself. That way I know it's fresh.
 
Update on "...a Sunset foto metal hotshoe for a Vivitar 285,...".

It turns out to be an India made "Nisha 'MS-V" replacement Hot shoe, with both a PC port and test button so, now you know the correct name of these things, as well as the, "Flash Foot I" from Holly Enterprises in Van Nuys, CA. which in my opinion, with it's household plug port, but no test button, or PC port, is still a better tool, but three (3x) times more expensive.

Best wishes to all.
 
Pioneer said:
I have been trying to wean myself off of store bought developers but I can't seem to get by without these two on my shelf.
Click to expand...

Parodinal is almost free. Acetaminophen tablets, lye, and sodium sulfite (optionally a few grams of potassium bromide). Same dilutions and times as any of the current Rodinal copies.

Can't help you with the HC-110, though.
 
zz
Pioneer said:
Another bottle of Rodinal and HC110. Need the HC110 and the Rodinal is starting to get low. I have been trying to wean myself off of store bought developers but I can't seem to get by without these two on my shelf. I guess it is a dependency.

But, these are the only developers that I buy off the shelf any longer. I mix up everything else myself. That way I know it's fresh.
Click to expand...

Have you ever tried to make Parrodinal?

It's dead simple, especially if you get the key ingredient in a powder from an Apothecary, instead of pulverizing and grinding up 30 Tylenol tabs for a basic volume, with the pharmacy powder giving a much cleaner result, without the filler in the tablets.

IMO.
 
eli griggs said:
zz


Have you ever tried to make Parrodinal?

It's dead simple, especially if you get the key ingredient in a powder from an Apothecary, instead of pulverizing and grinding up 30 Tylenol tabs for a basic volume, with the pharmacy powder giving a much cleaner result, without the filler in the tablets.

IMO.
Click to expand...
No I haven't. I have looked at the formula once or twice but never taken that step. Now that you bring it up I guess I will play with it a bit and see how it works out. Thanks.
 
I've used Parodinal a lot. I've never found acetaminophen in powder form, but it doesn't matter much. The lye will convert all the tableting material (starch and wax, by various names) to soluble ingredients; after the mixed concentrate has stood a couple days, you won't be able to find any of that stuff. Do mix it a few days ahead, though -- if it hasn't turned at least pink, it's not ready to use. And, like original Rodinal, it still works till it's the color of weak coffee, at least.
 
Cheers!

We have very experienced photographers here who know all the updated ins and outs of compounding this material, and lots of good discussions to look back on.

I personally feel that knowing how to and by using self compounded developers, etc, I need no be at the mercy of those camera stores that need charge high prices, to keep material in stock, nor a company that suddenly pulls a product, which can result in a run on what is available, Rodinal being one such exercise and example.

Good luck and post pics when you run your first batches of films.
 
Funny thing is I am less worried about the prices being charged and more concerned with freshness and consistency. When I mix it myself I know when it was done and what was used. It just take one variable out of the mix and it doesn't take much time.

BTW, I also picked up a 285mm Wollaston Landscape lens from Reinhold for my 8x10 and that arrived just the other day. I have enjoyed my 500mm Wollaston lens on my 11x14 so much I just decided to get another. I really enjoy using the old lenses.
 
The nice thing about Parrodinal is it has a long shelf life and is as every bit as good as the Rodinal formula being sold now, IMO.
 
I agree.

13.jpg

Bantam RF, .EDU Ultra 100, Parodinal 1:50
 
This month I got an Olympus E-M1X with M.Zuiko 17mm lens. Completely wrong timing because today the news broke that the Olympus Imaging Business will be sold to JIP, a Japanese private equity fund [1]. I guess more camera brands will follow.:cry:

After this news I decided to dig in my heels and also to purchase an M.Zuiko 12mm, which was still on my list. I have already an extra spare battery and charger so this kit will last 5 years or more.

[1] https://www.olympus-global.com/ir/data/announcement/2020.html
 
Kinda hard to explain, but a bunch of bits and bobs at the hardware store to turn my patio into an outdoor studio. Thanks to some rope, hooks, a bit of galvanized pipe and a pulley, I now have a rig that will let me raise and lower a backdrop, and raise/lower/angle an overhead diffusion/privacy screen.
 
Loctite, two different strengths, for repairs to kit.
 
A pair of 100ml no-needle syringes, for measuring Parodinal concentrate and XTOL replenishment (maybe eventually C-41 replenishment as well) and similar small quantities of liquids.
 
Off Amazon.com (JIS) 000 and 0000 Vessel Brand screwdrivers to go with the three pack of long shaft drivers I received Monday.

I will also likely get a small, jeweler's set, of Vessel tools, which also has drivers 0, 00, 000, 0000, a couple of slotted drivers, but which will allow a closer working distance.

Having up to 50 to 100 mm of shaft on a driver makes getting into some lenses much easier.

I could have filled down the points of a Philp's head set of jeweler's drivers, but I would have had a tough time recognizing them from my other small tools, so this was easier and gave me the extension I feel is needed, if I want to the have reach needed for longer camera lenses and occasional repairs.

IMO
 
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