what was the last camera you used, last film and how was it developed

[wjlapier]

Rollei A26 w/ Slit 120 Kodak 160VC. Developed here in my home.

 

[markjwyatt]

The last camera I used was a Contax iia loaded with Adox CHS 100 II. I used the Carl Zeiss 35mm f2.8 Biogon, the Nikkor-P.C 105mm f2.5, and the Voigtlander SC Skopar 21mm f4 . Now the last film I developed was Fomopan 200 (shot in the Kodak Retina IIIc w/Rodenstock 50mm f2 Heligon), developed in HC110 1:47 for 5.5 minutes.

 

[benjiboy]

Canon New F1 AE with Fuji 400 X

 

[Donald Qualls]

The last camera I used was a Contax iia loaded with Adox CHS 100 II. I used the Carl Zeiss 35mm f2.8 Biogon

Really? I thought I'd read you couldn't use the 35mm Biogon (or the Soviet copy Jupiter-11) in the post-War Contax RF bodies because the slightly thickened shutter curtain would rub on the protruding rear element. I've got a Jupiter 11 with damage that seems compatible with that story. Is it only some IIa and IIIa bodies?

 

[markjwyatt]

Really? I thought I'd read you couldn't use the 35mm Biogon (or the Soviet copy Jupiter-11) in the post-War Contax RF bodies because the slightly thickened shutter curtain would rub on the protruding rear element. I've got a Jupiter 11 with damage that seems compatible with that story. Is it only some IIa and IIIa bodies?

This is the postwar Carl Zeiss 35mm f2.8 Biogon. There are (I think) three versions of it, one is just called Carl Zeiss, and it is basically an early Optron.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Great. Nothing confusing about that. Obviously, though, the Jupiter-11 (also 35mm f/2.8) is a pre-War Biogon continuance, since that's the tooling that was hauled to Ukraine after the War, and that might be the version that can't be used with post-War Contax RF models. To be safe, I bought a pre-War Contax III (better deal than a II, and the seller says the meter works). I don't need flash, but can't afford to buy and potentially damage real Biogons.

 

[markjwyatt]

Great. Nothing confusing about that. Obviously, though, the Jupiter-11 (also 35mm f/2.8) is a pre-War Biogon continuance, since that's the tooling that was hauled to Ukraine after the War, and that might be the version that can't be used with post-War Contax RF models. To be safe, I bought a pre-War Contax III (better deal than a II, and the seller says the meter works). I don't need flash, but can't afford to buy and potentially damage real Biogons.

The per-war Biogons do not fit on the iia/iiia, nor do the Jupiter 11s.

I would have taken either a pre or post war Contax, but preferred the post-war, just because I think the shutters might be a little more reliable (some people will debate that), plus it is ergonomically a little friendlier (not much, and I do have a Kiev 4a, and it is fine). Also, the post war are a little newer, so that can help.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The per-war Biogons do not fit on the iia/iiia, nor do the Jupiter 11s.

I would have taken either a pre or post war Contax, but preferred the post-war, just because I think the shutters might be a little more reliable (some people will debate that), plus it is ergonomically a little friendlier (not much, and I do have a Kiev 4a, and it is fine). Also, the post war are a little newer, so that can help.

Okay, so I chose correctly getting a pre-War model. Sure was tempting, but I resisted the Sonnar 50mm f/1.5 I found while searching... But I'm unlikely to buy a real, post-War Biogon, so compatibility with my Jupiter-11 was a key shopping point.

 

[images39]

The last photography I did was about three weeks ago; I had a Mamiya 645 at the water's edge of Lake Tahoe (one hour from my home). I shot with expired Ilford Pan F, only because I had run out of my standard Delta 100. The rolls will be lab processed in Xtol. I hope they come out, because I'm not very familiar with Pan F. I'm so used to Delta 100, I know how it responds, and how to compensate for reciprocity failure with that film. Pan F, not so much. At least if the negs don't turn out well, I can easily go back to the same spot (with my pal Delta 100)...

Dale

 

[markjwyatt]

Okay, so I chose correctly getting a pre-War model. Sure was tempting, but I resisted the Sonnar 50mm f/1.5 I found while searching... But I'm unlikely to buy a real, post-War Biogon, so compatibility with my Jupiter-11 was a key shopping point.

I meant Jupiter 12... The prewar Jupiter 12 35mm f2.8 also does not fit the Contax iia/iia

All teh lenses fit on the pre-war Conbtax (II/III), and I believe all the Zeiss and Jupiter equivalent lenses (Zeiss & Jupiter equivalents) other than the pre-war 35mm f2.8 (Biogon or Jupiter 12 specifically) do fit on the iia/iiia

 

[Tel]

Nikon F2, Portra 160NC (exp. 2009). Developed C-41 in my favorite lab: my kitchen.

 

[woodlandSerenade]

The last camera I used would be my anniversary speed graphic retrofitted with a 5.75" projector lens and I was exposing ~40 year expired (supposedly well-kept) TXP pack film. Haven't developed the sheets yet, but I'll likely use a more dilute HC110 concentration to tame any age-related fog.
The last film I developed was a roll of bog-standard 135 Portra 400. Subject was nothing too special, just snapshots I took during my most recent travel for work.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I meant Jupiter 12... The prewar Jupiter 12 35mm f2.8 also does not fit the Contax iia/iia

All teh lenses fit on the pre-war Conbtax (II/III), and I believe all the Zeiss and Jupiter equivalent lenses (Zeiss & Jupiter equivalents) other than the pre-war 35mm f2.8 (Biogon or Jupiter 12 specifically) do fit on the iia/iiia

Yep. No change in mount, it's only rear element clearance that's a problem. I'm looking forward to combining an RF accurate enough for f/2 or faster at portrait distances, with good frame spacing and being able to find repairers to work on it if needed.

 

[TheFlyingCamera]

My Sinar Norma 5x7 with a ca. 1915 Cooke 10.4" Series II Anastigmat. FP4+, developed in Pyrocat HD.

 

[Cloudy]

Horseman large format monorail camera, HP5+ with a blue filter, Kodak HC110 (1+63) for 11 minutes

 

[Helios 1984]

Praktica L2 w/ Expired Fuji Superia 1600 @ ASA 200 (Unknown age, likely 10 years)
Developed for 3:45 minutes in my 16 months old batch of Unicolor.
The negative looks good but my expectations for the grain aren't high, we'll see what the scanner says.

 

[Pentode]

Minolta XE-7, Rokkor 45mm f/2, yellow #8 filter
Fuji Neopan F* exposed at EI 25
Beutler 1+1+10

Yashica 44, yellow filter
Rollei 400 Professional (70mm slit down to 127) exposed at EI 160 and EI 80
Rodinal 1+50

Both films could have used a little more time in the soup.

*I believe Fuji Neopan F was also called Fujipan 32 in some markets but I'm not really sure. I've had little luck finding much concrete information about this film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Minolta XE-7, Rokkor 45mm f/2, yellow #8 filter
Fuji Neopan F* exposed at EI 25
Beutler 1+1+10

Yashica 44, yellow filter
Rollei 400 Professional (70mm slit down to 127) exposed at EI 160 and EI 80
Rodinal 1+50

Both films could have used a little more time in the soup.

*I believe Fuji Neopan F was also called Fujipan 32 in some markets but I'm not really sure. I've had little luck finding much concrete information about this film.

Using developer instead of soup would have worked much better.

 

[Pentode]

Using developer instead of soup would have worked much better.

It seems so simple now that you point it out. I couldn't figure out why there was a huge parsley outline on a few of the frames.... smelled delicious, though.

 

[R.Gould]

Bronica ETRSi, 2 rolls of Fomapan 400@250, developedin ID11 stock

 

[Pentode]

Yashica 44, yellow filter
Rollei 400 Professional (70mm slit down to 127) exposed at EI 80
D-23 1+1, 13:00

 

[Cloudy]

Ilford HP5+ shot with a Horseman monorail camera and developed in HC110 (1+31) for 7 minutes

 

[Danner]

Bonica GS-1, 100mm lens, FP4 Plus, XTOL 1:1.

 

[Trask]

Minolta SR T-101 (black) with 57mm f/1.4 MC lens, Tmax 100, Merg Ross acetone film developer.

 

[vickersdc]

c1896 E&T Underwood 'Instanto' 1/4-plate camera with Instax Wide sheet. Processed by putting the sheet back into the Instax 100 camera and running it through the rollers.