What should I replace my broken FM3A with (or is that by)?

[philipus]

Hello everybody

I recently dropped my FM3A and received wonderful help in this thread. It will cost quite a bit to repair it and as I'm therefore looking for a replacement Nikon, I thought I'd ask for your thoughts.

Truth be told I've pretty much only used the FM3A in Aperture priority, and it has always worked wonderfully well during the years I've had it. Before I bought it I eyed the FA but always liked the idea of a manual and electronic body. When a reasonably-priced FM3A appeared I therefore bought it.

But as now find myself in a situation to consider the issue with an open mind I'm not sure what I would choose. I'm not per se bothered by an electronic camera and actually have several. I know it might be difficult to impossible to have them repaired these days, but that is also true with respect to non-electronic film bodies in many cases.

So if the only "guiding principle" is that the replacement should have aperture priority, which would you choose and why? Unless I'm mistaken the options are pretty much the FE, FE2, FA and FM3A so I'd be very curious to know how you would approach this.

Thank you kindly in advance
Philip

 

[Paul Howell]

If you have AIS lens then why not a F4, many quip that it is the best manual focus camera Nikon made. If not the F3 which seem to holding. BTW I have a F4 which I use with AI and non AI lens, the focus confirmation features works well.

 

[Wolfram Malukker]

Don't forget the very light FG and FG-20. Yes, they're more plastic than the FM3A, but if you're shooting aperture priority primarily, they're *very* inexpensive.

If nothing else, an inexpensive and very lightweight way to keep shooting while you look for your "full-time" replacement!

 

[Bwbuff]

I you have home insurance that covers the damage caused by accidentally drop, you can replace another FM3A, just a thought.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I second the F3 and F4. The F4's 'in focus' light is useful as eyesight fades and one hasn't yet had a cataract operation.

 

[Chan Tran]

You picked the FM3a and thus it's hard to get a different one. Operationally the FE2 is very much the same as the FM3a (and the FE2 does have slow shutter speeds down to 8 seconds) and a lot less expensive but it doesn't have the hybrid shutter so that may mean something to you. Personally I like the F3 much better that woud be my choice. I had the F3HP since 1982 as first I bought it for the motor drive because the motor drive for the F2AS that I had was too expensive. But it has grown on me and it became my favorit 35mm SLR.

 

[BrianShaw]

That’s a great question. I’d write “with”, as you have, and then ask me editor to fix it if necessary.

For a replacement camera… there is only one true answer: Hasselblad. But if you really want 35mm and aperture priority, I’ve been having a wonderful experience with the FE. About the same experience as with the F3. The FE has its mechanical quirks but if in good repair they are solid and reliable.

 

[mshchem]

You can buy a Nikon F5 in great shape for 350 USD, but after the FM3a it would be like wearing a bowling ball.

You could buy another FM3a, or a really nice F3. Nikon F6, would be my pick.

 

[Oldwino]

As a previous owner of a FM3a, and current owner of both the F3HP and the F4, I’d say the F3. Fabulous viewfinder, solid build, excellent meter.

The F4 is indeed the apogee of Nikon’s film cameras (that still have traditional controls), but it is really set up for autofocus. I will add that I consistently get the best negatives from the F4, exposure- and focus-wise, than from any other camera I own. They hit it out of the park with this one, so to speak. The downsides are the weight, and complete lack of discreetness, Another bonus? They are much underpriced right now, and basically a steal.

 

[Don_ih]

What should I replace my broken FM3A with (or is that by)?​

"What should replace my broken FM3A?"

 

[Radost]

your camera repair does not look like difficult one.

 

[Paul Howell]

The F4 has matrix and spot metering, rear viewfinder blind for long exposures, exposure compensation and standard hot shoe. With AIS lens can use shutter speed priority or program mode exposure. top shutter speed of 1/8000 of second flash syn of 1/250. Only the F3P had weather sealing. Only large issue is bleeding LEDs in the viewfinder.

 

[250swb]

You've got a big culture shock coming if going from one of the 'small' Nikon's to anything else, especially the F4' s and beyond. The nearest professional option in size function and form would be the F3, but still hefty compared to an FM3a. But if you only use AP you could buy three or four FE's for the price of another FM3a or two FE's for the price of an F3. Personally I'd stick with the FM3a if possible, but otherwise the experience of using an F3 can be a complete joy if you take a spare set of batteries, and unlike the later F's you can feel the 'professional' nature of it just by the tactile nature of advancing the film (although the FM3a isn't far off). That said if you want to go electronic the F80/N80 is a fine camera.

 

[Nitroplait]

If you don’t use flash and are ok with 1/1000 top speed, the FE is the nicest camera in the range of Nikon’s you are considering IMO.

If your lenses all have the coupling prongs, the EL/ELW is a solid, cheaper, but heavier equivalent alternative.
The FE2 has the annoying feature of defaulting to flash sync until you reach frame 1 (like the F3 and possibly others).
I personally like the simple and intuitive user interface of Nikon FE the best of all Nikon film cameras, but I also use EL’s for pre-AI lenses with as much enjoyment.
My FE2’s mostly see usage when I anticipate use of flash for its higher flash sync speed and TTL ability.

 

[MFstooges]

FA will be the closest then FE2. Forget F3, the flash shoe attachment which covers the film rewind is PITA.

 

[Chan Tran]

FA will be the closest then FE2. Forget F3, the flash shoe attachment which covers the film rewind is PITA.

The FE2 is much closer to the FM3a. The FA is quite different. The F3 hot shoe is never a problem for me.

 

[kaliuzhkin]

Hello everybody

I recently dropped my FM3A and received wonderful help in this thread. It will cost quite a bit to repair it and as I'm therefore looking for a replacement Nikon, I thought I'd ask for your thoughts.

Truth be told I've pretty much only used the FM3A in Aperture priority, and it has always worked wonderfully well during the years I've had it. Before I bought it I eyed the FA but always liked the idea of a manual and electronic body. When a reasonably-priced FM3A appeared I therefore bought it.

But as now find myself in a situation to consider the issue with an open mind I'm not sure what I would choose. I'm not per se bothered by an electronic camera and actually have several. I know it might be difficult to impossible to have them repaired these days, but that is also true with respect to non-electronic film bodies in many cases.

So if the only "guiding principle" is that the replacement should have aperture priority, which would you choose and why? Unless I'm mistaken the options are pretty much the FE, FE2, FA and FM3A so I'd be very curious to know how you would approach this.

Thank you kindly in advance
Philip

Philip,

Why are you limiting your choices to Compact F cameras (FE, FE2, FA and FM3A)? What other cameras do you have? What type of photography do you emphasize?

I see that aperture priority is very important to you. The F3HP has that feature. I've had that model for 25 years and love it.

Dan

 

[Sirius Glass]

I suggest the Nikon F100 which cost less and weighs less than the F4 or F5 and yet has the same capabilities.

 

[BrianShaw]

Unless one is using flash on the F3 a lot, that's a very minor inconvenience. There is an atttachment, AS-7, that moves the hotshoe off the rewind. It's not that expensive and works great.

 

[MFstooges]

The FE2 is much closer to the FM3a. The FA is quite different. The F3 hot shoe is never a problem for me.

You're right. For some reason I thought FE2 tops at 1/2000s

Being a cheapskate I may go for FE10

 

[AZD]

One more for the FE2. My guess is it would be a nearly seamless switch. I wanted an FM3a years ago but couldn’t justify the cost. Got the FE2 and like it a lot, stopped thinking about getting an FM3a.

 

[kaliuzhkin]

Well, just for the record, according to the Nikon Compendium by Stafford and Hauschild, the following Nikon manual focus film cameras, as of 2003, have aperture priority:
F3 and all its varieties, F4 and varieties, F5, EL, ELW, EL-2, FE, FE-2, FA, FG, FG-20, FE-10. The F6, released in 2004, is also aperture priority.

Naturally, you'd want to get the camera in your hands and see how it feels./;

 

[Chan Tran]

You're right. For some reason I thought FE2 tops at 1/2000s

Being a cheapskate I may go for FE10

The FE2 is very much the same as the FM3a except
1. The FE2 shutter is electronic only and only works at 1/250 if the batteries are dead. The FM3a shutter will work the full range from 1 to 1/4000.
2. The FE2 manual shutter speed is from 8 to 1/4000 while the FM3a manual shutter speed is only from 1 to 1/4000.

So if you pay big buck for the FM3a it has to do with its hybrid shutter.

 

[Chan Tran]

Well, just for the record, according to the Nikon Compendium by Stafford and Hauschild, the following Nikon manual focus film cameras, as of 2003, have aperture priority:
F3 and all its varieties, F4 and varieties, F5, EL, ELW, EL-2, FE, FE-2, FA, FG, FG-20, FE-10. The F6, released in 2004, is also aperture priority.

Naturally, you'd want to get the camera in your hands and see how it feels./;

You missed the EM which only has aperture priority.

 

[abruzzi]

I'll take the slightly contrarian position and suggest the FA. Why? Because while aperture priority is useful, so is shutter priority when shooting moving subjects, or dimly lit scenes. I bought mine years ago and it works beautifully.

The other reason, my brain is more numerate than spacial. I hate cameras like the FE2 that have a swinging needle that arcs through a list of shutter speeds, because my brain can't process the value indicated by a long needle nearly as fast or well as my brain can process a numeric readout of shutter or aperture values. But then that is the same as the FM3a, so you may like that setup.