What kind of fiber based paper is best to use for these uber contrasty negs?

[Claudia Moroni]

Hello

I'm not very expert in the darkroom and I was wondering if you could help me.

I'd like to print a series of portraits for my portfolio and eventually for an exhibition here in London.

I've exhibited this project before, but at the time I just scanned the negs and printed at the lab (lambda prints).

While I was making some small prints in the darkroom on ilford rc multigrade, I realised how damn contrasty the negs are and how hard it was to print them (I even struggled while using 0 contrast for some photos).

Now I'd like to print them on fiber based paper and I could do with some advices.

Normally I like cool tone paper, like bromide that unfortunately only comes in grade 2.

What kind of paper do you think would be best?

You can see the scans of the negs here

Dead Link Removed
​

 

[Ian Grant]

Go for Ilford MG FB. If you can't drop the contrast enough you might try flashing the paper and/or using a soft working developer you might have to make up your own from raw chemistry but Silverprint may have something.

Ian

 

[paul_c5x4]

I realised how damn contrasty the negs are and how hard it was to print them (I even struggled while using 0 contrast for some photos).

Now I'd like to print them on fiber based paper and I could do with some advices.​

I noticed some of your uploads to the gallery are shot with a LF camera - A couple of thoughts that might help. Assuming a 5x4 or larger neg, a contrast mask could be used - This could be done the traditional way with a sheet of film or from a scan inkjet printed on acetate.

You could also try an alt printing process such as pt/pd or carbon, but as these are contact printing processes, you'd be limited on print size. A third option would be lith prints - I use it from time to time on some otherwise troublesome negs.​

 

[Ian Grant]

You need to drop the film speed slightly (increase exposure) and cut development time slightly to compensate, that should drop the contrast so you can print more easily.

Ian

 

[cliveh]

You need to drop the film speed slightly (increase exposure) and cut development time slightly to compensate, that should drop the contrast so you can print more easily.

Ian

Good advice, as you need to treat the cause rather than the effect.

 

[Claudia Moroni]

Go for Ilford MG FB. If you can't drop the contrast enough you might try flashing the paper and/or using a soft working developer you might have to make up your own from raw chemistry but Silverprint may have something.

Ian

Thanks for the advice, but I've never made my own developer, it sounds a bit tricky/daunting.

You need to drop the film speed slightly (increase exposure) and cut development time slightly to compensate, that should drop the contrast so you can print more easily.

Ian

??? I already developed these negatives. I don't understand.

I noticed some of your uploads to the gallery are shot with a LF camera - A couple of thoughts that might help. Assuming a 5x4 or larger neg, a contrast mask could be used - This could be done the traditional way with a sheet of film or from a scan inkjet printed on acetate.

You could also try an alt printing process such as pt/pd or carbon, but as these are contact printing processes, you'd be limited on print size. A third option would be lith prints - I use it from time to time on some otherwise troublesome negs.

You're right, they're all 5x4, but I've never done or heard of a contrast mask before. How does it work? Actually I can look for discussions where's been mentioned, hopefully I'll find something

I'd rather enlarge the negatives over contact printing them.

Lith print is a cool option, I've only done it once ages ago in college, I should look into it.

Thanks for the suggestions, it's very kind of you

 

[Ian Grant]

??? I already developed these negatives. I don't understand.

I meant in future. Ideally you want negatives that can be printed any way you like.

It is possible to use a reducer on contrasty negatives but I've never found a need to use one. I think flashing at the printing stage will bring you highlight details out. Silverprint sell Moersch Separol Soft, this would help as well.

Do a search here fro flashing it's a very useful but also simple technique.

Ian

 

[JamesMorris]

Are you contact printing? If so, Lodima grade 2 has a very long scale.

 

[ParkerSmithPhoto]

Hello

I'm not very expert in the darkroom and I was wondering if you could help me.

I'd like to print a series of portraits for my portfolio and eventually for an exhibition here in London.

I've exhibited this project before, but at the time I just scanned the negs and printed at the lab (lambda prints).
​

Claudia,

Those are beautifully crafted portraits. Very, very compelling.

I think the harder contrast actually works quite well with the subject matter. If you already have good scans and want something that is light years finer than Lambda prints, see if any of your local print shops use the Piezography process. It has a platinum like tonal scale. With the right files, the gray scale just goes on forever.

Silver prints might work just fine, but if not, there are other alternatives that have their own special qualities.

Parker​

 

[ROL]

You might try printing on warm tone papers. As a cold tone printer myself, I have dealt with the somewhat occasional harsh, hard contrast negative with warm tones, and (human) portraits in general benefit greatly from warmer hues. Even if they don't end up working for you, you may just find the experiment will take you in new directions.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Go for Ilford MG FB. If you can't drop the contrast enough you might try flashing the paper and/or using a soft working developer you might have to make up your own from raw chemistry but Silverprint may have something.

Ian

I AGREE. YOU have used it already in RC. SHOULD BE AN EASY jump between papers. also,both papers have a similartonality . they are my favorit papers;same chemicals;similar treatment;similar look,gradationand tonality.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

Besides flashing your paper before you expose the paper with the negative, you can also use softer working paper developers.

Selectol soft, or 120 would be good. My own preference is to have a negative of high contrast and then use a replenished soft working developer to balance the high contrast. I get better prints that way.

Good luck with your project and your prints!

 

[paul_c5x4]

Thanks for the advice, but I've never made my own developer, it sounds a bit tricky/daunting.

You're right, they're all 5x4, but I've never done or heard of a contrast mask before. How does it work? Actually I can look for discussions where's been mentioned, hopefully I'll find something

Mixing your own developer isn't very difficult - You need a cheap digital scale that will go up to at least 100 grammes with a resolution of 0.1g. Silverprint should have most of the raw chemicals you need in stock. If you can follow the recipe to make a cup of coffee or tea, you can brew your own developer

If you search APUG, you should find plenty of info on contrast masks - It is only something I have done once, so I can't claim any expertise in the subject.

Lodima grade 2 has a very long scale.

Lodima is indeed a nice paper, unfortunately, darned expensive and only available from michaelandpaula.com unless you can find someone local with some. Got some sitting in the freezer myself

 

[Bill Burk]

Good luck with the project and the suggestions so far. I hope you consider an alternative print process (like platinum) because it requires contrasty negs, and you have that.

 

[gsgary]

I don't have an answer but just wanted say those portraits scanned look wonderful, this chap may be able to help you http://www.robinbell.com/ im going to get a print of one of my negs done as a Christmas present to myself

 

[Mark Fisher]

Besides flashing your paper before you expose the paper with the negative, you can also use softer working paper developers.

Selectol soft, or 120 would be good. My own preference is to have a negative of high contrast and then use a replenished soft working developer to balance the high contrast. I get better prints that way.

Good luck with your project and your prints!

What Thomas and Ian said are spot on. This is the easiest way to get where you want to go with a minimal learning curve. Between flashing and a selectol soft-type developer, I'd guess you'll drop at least a grade. Lith printing may help, but it is a very different look and the paper options/looks are limited. Things like contrast masks and platinum printing will also work, but the learning curve is a bit more steep.