what is the last thing you developed or printed

Status
Not open for further replies.

Pentode

Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2017
Messages
957
Location
Brooklyn, NY
Format
Multi Format
A single roll of Ilford P4 Surveillance Film pushed to 1600.

D-76 1:1, 20 minutes at 68F

Prior to that it was two rolls of expired Rollei R3 in 120 shot at EI 50.

Perceptol 1:1, 14:30 at 68F
 

awty

Subscriber
Joined
Jul 24, 2016
Messages
3,646
Location
Australia
Format
Multi Format
I have a box of 1947 Du-point 11 x 14, is slightly fogged but still has great tones, so I used 3 x 6x6 inverted lens box camera negs and bleached back the fog and toned in sepia, for a nice aged effect. Now I got to flatten mount and frame, hate doing that.

 

mrosenlof

Member
Joined
Feb 25, 2010
Messages
621
Location
Colorado
Format
Multi Format
My last printing session, 2 weeks ago was some photos from a recent trip to Maui, one of my mother shortly (hours) before she passed, and a few from a project on the met at work (yes, all men) on construction going on behind my house.
 

koraks

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 29, 2018
Messages
23,025
Location
Europe
Format
Multi Format
@Raghu Kuvempunagar I really like those 4x5 reversals, nice! It does look like you are running into some issues with the emulsion lifting from the film. I haven't experienced that when I experimented a bit with reversal processing. Could be a cool effect (like mordançage, but with film instead of paper), but I suppose it should be able to avoid it entirely.
 

Raghu Kuvempunagar

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
2,756
Location
India
Format
Multi Format
koraks said:
@Raghu Kuvempunagar It does look like you are running into some issues with the emulsion lifting from the film.
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the emulsion damage at the corner of the sheet, they're due to some issue in taco development. Sometimes the rubber band slips off just enough to let the sharp corners of the film to run over the emulsion and do a little damage. Not really an intended effect but definitely avoidable.
 

markbau

Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2009
Messages
867
Location
Australia
Format
Analog
Took a salt printing workshop today and produced my first salt prints. Negs were digitally produced and was quite happy with the results but I can't wait to contact 8x10 negs. This is an iphone shot of a 67 neg that can be a bit of a challenge to print on silver gelatin. The snap does not do it justice.
 

koraks

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 29, 2018
Messages
23,025
Location
Europe
Format
Multi Format
Yeah that'd be it. I thought I saw some additional damage in one of the yucca leaves but this was just a dried section of the leaf.
Very nice results indeed, makes me want to give it another go as well!
Do you use a dichromate or a permanganate bleach?
 

Raghu Kuvempunagar

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
2,756
Location
India
Format
Multi Format
I use Copper Sulphate + Sodium Chloride bleach. It's slow but works fine with all films I've tried including Adox CMS 20 ii.

I dabbled with Cerium Sulphate bleach but ran into some issues. It's difficult to dissolve the salt even in dilute sulphuric acid, bleaching is very slow and DMax is low. I followed Yurow's recipe but without Thiourea as accelerator. Need to first find an effective way of dissolving Cerium Sulphate.

Any idea whether copper sulphate bleach can be made faster by using an accelerator?
 

koraks

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 29, 2018
Messages
23,025
Location
Europe
Format
Multi Format
Hm, that's a tough one; I have no experience with copper/chloride bleach in a reversal application. In fact, I'm rather surprised it works at all as I'd expect it to be a rehalogenating bleach, whereas you need a non-rehalogenating bleach for reversal. I had to google a bit top come up with this thread which was possibly your inspiration: https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/copper-sulphate-b-w-reversal-bleach.137943/

To speed things up, intuitively I would suggest trying e.g. ammonium chloride instead of sodium chloride (together with copper sulfate of course), as sodium tends to slow such processes down. However, introducing ammonium may enhance the blixing effect of the bleach (as mentioned by PE in the thread linked to above). Maybe the issue is insignificant, maybe it isn't. Hard to tell.

Another option would be to figure out at which pH the bleach works fastest. We know that with color bleaches, the bleaching speed is very dependent on correct pH and I can imagine the same is just as true for copper sulfate bleaches - but I don't know for sure. I do notice that the copper/chloride bleaches generally also list an acid in the formula, so presumably bleach speed is highest at somewhat low pH. Do you add any acid to your bleach?

Finally, a very obvious route is just to increase the copper sulfate concentration (and perhaps the chloride concentration as well). It will speed things up, but I'm not sure if it will result in the kind of speed increase you're looking for. Still, I guesstimate it may be feasible to cut bleach time in half this way.
 

Raghu Kuvempunagar

Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2016
Messages
2,756
Location
India
Format
Multi Format
Copper Sulphate + Sodium Chloride bleach needs to be used in conjunction with ammonia to remove the rehalogenated silver. Ammonia step is fast - takes hardly two minutes.

I use this formula by Tim Rudman which has sulphuric acid along with copper sulphate and sodium chloride:
http://real-photographs.co.uk/formulae/toners/copper-sulfate-bleach/

Despite the low pH it's slow.

Thanks for the suggestion of ammonium chloride.
 

Andrew O'Neill

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
11,996
Location
Coquitlam,BC Canada
Format
Multi Format
Kallitype over Cyanotype. Working on another one where the Kallitype negative acts more like a mask, allowing more Cyanotype to show through...
This one is from a couple days ago. I'll post today's a bit later for comparison...
 

takahwan

Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2017
Messages
8
Location
NY
Format
35mm
TMax 100, last week, in trustworthy Patterson single tank, film shot with Nikon F6 over a few days roaming around NYC. It's been forever...
 

koraks

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Nov 29, 2018
Messages
23,025
Location
Europe
Format
Multi Format
Very nicely done indeed. I did the same thing last week but my results were mediocre; I didn't want to setup the flash kit and I didn't have a lot of light. For some reason I get maybe 0.5 iso when doing this on paper; less than paper negatives.
Do you add any thiosulfate to your first developer?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Menu
Log in
Register
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…