What Hasselblad?

[hiroh]

I have owned Rolleiflexes and Leicas for many years, but I've never had a Hasselblad. I've always wanted one, but I was hesitant because I didn't want to accumulate another set of cameras and lenses. This is especially true given that the Hasselblad features interchangeable lenses, which could potentially mean more equipment and a greater financial investment than I've made with my Rolleiflex. However, I'm now considering purchasing one. I'm interested in models from the 60s or 70s, specifically the 500C/M. I can't pinpoint exactly why, but I just like the camera, and some of my favorite photographers have used it.

I own a Rolleiflex 2.8F, and I adore its build quality and how it feels in my hands. I'm hoping for a similar experience with a Hasselblad. Do you think the 500C/M is the right choice?

 

[nanthor]

It is probably the obvious choice since it is also probably the most known and used medium format film camera. While it does feel well made it may not give you the same feeling as the Rolleiflex, which seems at a higher level in terms of quality feel. Consider the Hasselblad 500C also, the only real difference is a non-replaceable viewing screen, it will save a few dollars. If you are really enamored with the Rolleiflex 2.8F you could also consider the Rollei SL66, very similar to the Hasselblad but it retains most all the quality feel of the 2.8F. They are a bit harder to find than the Hasselblad and also harder to find a technician if you need one. Good luck, Bob.

 

[Alan9940]

I've owned a 500C/M and a Rolleiflex 3.5F for many years and I like them both, equally, for different reasons. I doubt you'd be disappointed with any of the 5xx series cameras. One minor point that you may want to consider is that the later 500 series bodies have a floating mirror which helps maintain a consistent view, especially with longer lenses. That said, I use a range of lenses on my 500C/M from 50mm to 250mm and I've never noticed this to be an issue.

Bob certainly gave some good advice but I'd look long and hard at the SL66, if you think you may go that way. Yes, it does have the quality feel of a Rolleiflex, but it's BIG and HEAVY. Also, as Bob mentioned repairs can be difficult to obtain nowadays. Also, IMO the standard viewing screen in the SL66 is pretty dim. If you go with this camera, you may have to invest in a brighter screen.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I have the Hasselblad 503 CX which had the extra feature of reading the flash exposure off the film, which I have never used, without the added cost of the power winder that the 503 CW has. I prefer to get the models from the later 1990's than the older ones. I also have the Hasselblad 903 SWC which is just gem. Both are lighter than the SL66 and still have parts, service, and lenses for the 503.

 

[Dan Daniel]

I have owned Rolleiflexes and Leicas for many years, but I've never had a Hasselblad.

I own a Rolleiflex 2.8F, and I adore its build quality and how it feels in my hands. I'm hoping for a similar experience with a Hasselblad.

Have you been shooting with a Hasselblad? You really should before you drop the money.

I shot Rolleiflexes and Leicas. I always thought that I should shoot a Hasselblad because, well... I was able to borrow one for a while. I did like the feel. But two things drove me crazy. The THWUNK of the mirror and rear curtain clapping around. And the black screen after taking a shot. Both of these issues simply don't exist with Leicas and Rolleiflex TLRs. Being cut off from the viewfinder image after hitting the shutter button drives me crazy!

Just pointing this out. Many many people have no problem with these aspect of the Hasselblads, and for a large number these are a very real positive aspect of the system.

If you are committed, you'll get a lot of good advise from long term users here. In so many ways, wonderful cameras that people have done great things with.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Have you been shooting with a Hasselblad? You really should before you drop the money.

I shot Rolleiflexes and Leicas. I always thought that I should shoot a Hasselblad because, well... I was able to borrow one for a while. I did like the feel. But two things drove me crazy. The THWUNK of the mirror and rear curtain clapping around. And the black screen after taking a shot. Both of these issues simply don't exist with Leicas and Rolleiflex TLRs. Being cut off from the viewfinder image after hitting the shutter button drives me crazy!

Just pointing this out. Many many people have no problem with these aspect of the Hasselblads, and for a large number these are a very real positive aspect of the system.

If you are committed, you'll get a lot of good advise from long term users here. In so many ways, wonderful cameras that people have done great things with.

The THH-WACKK! is one of the best parts of the Hasselblad. THH-WACKK! has never hurt anyone and announces that you have arrived. Why would anyone be afraid to stand up and have themselves announced?

 

[Sean Mac]

My Rolleiflex 2.8F was joined by a Hasselblad 500c this year.

The screen in the 500c is bright and easy to focus.

I enjoy using it just as much as the Rollei.

So far I just have an 80mm Planar and I'm only planning on the classic 50/80/150 setup in time.

Extension rings to get close with the 80mm seem like my next purchase.

I hope it works out as well for you as it has for me

 

[Light Capture]

Have you been shooting with a Hasselblad? You really should before you drop the money.

I shot Rolleiflexes and Leicas. I always thought that I should shoot a Hasselblad because, well... I was able to borrow one for a while. I did like the feel. But two things drove me crazy. The THWUNK of the mirror and rear curtain clapping around. And the black screen after taking a shot. Both of these issues simply don't exist with Leicas and Rolleiflex TLRs. Being cut off from the viewfinder image after hitting the shutter button drives me crazy!

Just pointing this out. Many many people have no problem with these aspect of the Hasselblads, and for a large number these are a very real positive aspect of the system.

If you are committed, you'll get a lot of good advise from long term users here. In so many ways, wonderful cameras that people have done great things with.

Agreed. But in my case if was the opposite. Rolleiflex has commands that are kind of opposite to Hasselblad.
It took me quite few years to get to the point to be able to use Rolleiflex without frustration.

It's definitely the right choice if you need what it can do.

Any model will be fine if it's within specifications and in good mechanical condition.
500C can also be fitted with brighter screen but needs to be calibrated to focus right by someone who's able to do that.
Later models have user interchangeable screen.

There's a wide range of lenses and accessories.

 

[Dan Daniel]

The THH-WACKK! is one of the best parts of the Hasselblad. THH-WACKK! has never hurt anyone and announces that you have arrived. Why would anyone be afraid to stand up and have themselves announced?

There may be help available for your condition. Ask your doctor today!

 

[Arthurwg]

Interchangeable viewing screens are a must. Try to get the newest model that you can. 503 CW is the best IMHO.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There may be help available for your condition. Ask your doctor today!

Your jealousy is dripping from you.

 

[Dan Daniel]

Your jealousy is dripping from you.

And the salve my doctor gave me will clear up the drip in another day or two. But ye who refuses to seek proper help will suffer from your addiction for the rest of your life.

 

[retina_restoration]

I own both, and they are simply VERY different devices. You owe it to yourself to use a borrowed Hasselblad before you invest in one. There are reasons - as others have pointed out - that you may either love or hate the Hasselblad. You will get excellent results from both cameras, and people have done comparisons between the two and found the resulting negatives are very similar from both cameras. In other words, you may not see any improvement in your results by buying a Hasselblad, but you definitely WILL have a very different user experience.

 

[BrianShaw]

^^^^^!

 

[chuckroast]

I have owned Rolleiflexes and Leicas for many years, but I've never had a Hasselblad. I've always wanted one, but I was hesitant because I didn't want to accumulate another set of cameras and lenses. This is especially true given that the Hasselblad features interchangeable lenses, which could potentially mean more equipment and a greater financial investment than I've made with my Rolleiflex. However, I'm now considering purchasing one. I'm interested in models from the 60s or 70s, specifically the 500C/M. I can't pinpoint exactly why, but I just like the camera, and some of my favorite photographers have used it.

I own a Rolleiflex 2.8F, and I adore its build quality and how it feels in my hands. I'm hoping for a similar experience with a Hasselblad. Do you think the 500C/M is the right choice?

500C, 500C/M, 50C/M, 503C/M ... they're all fine. Bear in mind that these are mechanical devices that require periodic maintenance. So, what you save on a older one may be lost in a CLA. I have a 501C/M and love it, though I've use most of the prior models at one point or another.

Also, Hasselblad's HATE not being used. To avoid lubricant packing over time, I take mine out periodically and fire the camera with every back and every lens at every shutter speed.

Oh, and remember, with Hasselblads both body and lens must be cocked when mounting the lens. Failing to do this will cause great unpleasantness.

 

[Sirius Glass]

My Hasselblad repairman recommends that one fire all their Hasselblad lenses at 1 second for 10 to 15 times every three months to maintain working condition. If helps prevent the shutter from sticking.

 

[mshchem]

I have 501cm and 503cw models. The brighter Acutematte screens are fabulous. The winder offered for the CW is horrible feels terrible in my hand. Like SG I've rarely needed the ttl flash circuit.

The V models will be repairable for decades to come, so will twin lens cameras. A very good thing!

 

[4season]

As beautiful, mechanical objects, oh yes those older Hasselblads are lovely. Newer ones feature a number of changes designed to make them better picture-taking tools, but whether a bit of charm was lost in the process ..?

But if you are seeking an end-game purchase that will cure GAS forever, hahaha! GAS is a state of mind that everyone needs to deal with (or not) in their own way. IMO, all photo equipment becomes boring within a few weeks or months after purchase, and there has never been a shortage of other shiny toys to lure the wandering eye. But the better purchases remain useful.

 

[Steven Lee]

@hiroh Congratulations! You're about to discover something wonderful. As others have said, Hasselblads have their quirks like any other camera. For example, the sounds they make can be polarizing. To me their acoustics is AMAZING. This is what makes them so engaging and satisfying to use.

Now... to your question:

First of all, here's a useful web page with all the models. The first question to answer is: 200-series or 500-series? I have no experience with the former, because I couldn't find anyone who'd work on them. Supposedly the shutters cannot be repaired due to lack of parts, and repairmen don't want to touch their electronics. The 203fe looks amazing though... So the next question: which 500-series body?

Allow me to be direct and prescriptive here, but I strongly believe that the best choice is the 501CM. Here's why:

• They are the newest, manufactured up to 2005. It's easier to find a truly mint specimen.
• They come with a better stock focusing screen called AcuteMate D. The part numbers of these screens start with 422xxx (instead of 421xxx the older series used) and they alone go for $400+
• They have the gliding mirror feature which reduces vignetting on longer lenses.
• They are coated with the Palpas material inside, which is prone to crack (which is harmless) but supposedly decreases internal light reflections
• They are much cheaper than the higher end 503CW model, which adds TTL flash metering and a motor winder.

I would avoid the 503cw because strangely they command a noticeable premium over 501cm, but their TTL metering is nearly useless. The required SCA modules are hard to find, and there's only one (quite quirky) native TTL flash in existence that works with the system. After almost two years of searching i have not found a single Hasselbad ProFlash model on eBay with the native TTL Y-cable. Basically, Hasselblad TTL flash metering is a dead feature IMO. The only benefit of getting the 503cw is the ability to attach a motor winder.

The older models work and feel largely the same. They are cheaper, but they lack the bullet points above. If you decide to go with a 500C/M, my advice would be to upgrade the focusing screen and to make sure you get the latest-style WLF. But once you do, you'll find that you're spending 501CM money anyway.

BTW, I am not tooting my own horn. I have the 503cx, and I believe the 501cm is a better choice.

Also, and this is something that nobody mentions for some reason, stock WLF magnifiers on 500-series have a diopter adjustment of 0. This means you need to have a perfect vision or wear glasses to focus comfortably. I had to buy two additional magnifiers: -1 for now, and -2 just in case my vision gets worse over time. I do not like wearing glasses when I'm taking photos.

And finally, let me also suggest the 60mm lens as the starter lens instead of a more common 80mm. First, you already have the Rolleiflex if you want this focal length. Second, I found that the 60mm lens trivially does what the 80mm can do, you just need to zoom on your feet a little bit. But every once in a while it can give you a shot the 80mm cannot, when you are space-constrained.

 

[chuckroast]

Have you been shooting with a Hasselblad? You really should before you drop the money.

I shot Rolleiflexes and Leicas. I always thought that I should shoot a Hasselblad because, well... I was able to borrow one for a while. I did like the feel. But two things drove me crazy. The THWUNK of the mirror and rear curtain clapping around. And the black screen after taking a shot. Both of these issues simply don't exist with Leicas and Rolleiflex TLRs. Being cut off from the viewfinder image after hitting the shutter button drives me crazy!

Just pointing this out. Many many people have no problem with these aspect of the Hasselblads, and for a large number these are a very real positive aspect of the system.

If you are committed, you'll get a lot of good advise from long term users here. In so many ways, wonderful cameras that people have done great things with.

You are noting a well known phenomenon - SLRs and rangefinders work very differently. RF cameras are quieter and allow you to see continuous action. SLRs more accurately represent what will be taken in the viewfinder. Both have great utility.

The Rolleis are legendary and for good reason. Great glass, easy to use, quiet, and - as you say - never go dark in the viewing area. But you're stuck with the lens you get.

The reason to own a Hassy is for the lenses and their interchangeability. The bodies are mechanical beasts - heavy and at times unwieldy, But ohhhh that glass. There's nothing like it ... at least across the several dozen systems I've shot across TLR, 645, 6x6 etc. The only thing sharper I shoot is 4x5 which tends to be ... clumsy to use

 

[Sirius Glass]

@hiroh Congratulations! You're about to discover something wonderful. As others have said, Hasselblads have their quirks like any other camera. For example, the sounds they make can be polarizing. To me they sound AMAZING. This is what makes them so engaging and satisfying to use.

Now... to your question:

First of all, here's a useful web page with all the models. Allow me to be direct and prescriptive here, but I strongly believe that the best 500-series body is the 501CM. Here's why:

• They are the newest, manufactured up to 2005. It's easier to find a truly mint specimen.
• They come with a better stock focusing screen called AcuteMate D. The part numbers of these screens start with 422xxx (instead of 421xxx the older series used) and they alone go for $400+
• They have the gliding mirror feature which reduces vignetting on longer lenses.
• They are coated with the Palpas material inside, which is prone to crack (which is harmless) but supposedly decreases internal light reflections
• They are much cheaper than the higher end 503CW model, which adds TTL flash metering and a motor winder.

I would avoid the 503cw because strangely they command a noticeable premium over 501cm, but their TTL metering is nearly useless. The required SCA modules are hard to find, and there's only one (quite quirky) native TTL flash in existence that works with the system. After almost two years of searching i have not found a single Hasselbad ProFlash model on eBay with the native TTL Y-cable. Basically, Hasselblad TTL flash metering is a dead feature IMO. The only benefit of getting the 503cw is the ability to attach a motor winder.

The older models work and feel largely the same. They are cheaper, but they lack the bullet points above. If you decide to go with a 500C/M, my advice would be to upgrade the focusing screen and to make sure you get the latest-style WLF. But once you do, you'll find that you're spending 501CM money anyway.

Also, and this is something that nobody mentions for some reason, stock WLF magnifiers on 500-series have a diopter adjustment of 0. This means you need to have a perfect vision or wear glasses to focus comfortably. I had to buy two additional magnifiers: -1 for now, and -2 just in case my vision gets worse over time. I do not like wearing glasses when I'm taking photos.

And finally, let me also suggest the 60mm lens as the starter lens instead of a more common 80mm. First, you already have the Rolleiflex if you want this focal length. Second, I found that the 60mm lens trivially does what the 80mm can do, you just need to zoom on your feet a little bit. But every once in a while it can give you a shot the 80mm cannot, when you are space-constrained.

I found the 60mm lens too close to the 80mm lens. I use the 50mm for wide angle photographs. I recommend either the 50mm, 80mm, 180mm and 250mm set p or the 50mm, 100mm, 180mm and 250mm setup. I have heard the the 180mm lens is better than the 150mm lens, but I have not used the 180mm lens.

 

[SodaAnt]

The Mamiya TLRs seem like a good compromise—all the advantages of a TLR plus interchangeable lenses, plus no noisy clunk and finder blackout.

One feature I really like, being a habitual user of orange and red filters, is the filter doesn’t affect the viewfinder image.

 

[chuckroast]

The Mamiya TLRs seem like a good compromise—all the advantages of a TLR plus interchangeable lenses, plus no noisy clunk and finder blackout.

One feature I really like, being a habitual user of orange and red filters, is the filter doesn’t affect the viewfinder image.

And I just happen to have a very nice C-220 with a lens for sale in the Classifieds Forum

I will say, though, as much as I've loved my Mamiya TLRs over the years, the optics simply cannot compete with Hassy and Rollei.

Like all things, the cost/reward curve gets real steep with Hassy real fast. While notably better optically than the Mamiya TLR lenses, you're talking about anywhere from 5-10X increased costs. The Blad lenses are amazing, but not 5-10x as amazing. (The last 5 percent of almost anything is disproportionately far more expensive than the first 95%.)

Another possible compromise which gives you the virtue of an RF but with a much larger negative is the Mamiya Universal. It's press camera that shoots 6x9. With the G back and Graflex RH rollfilm holders it's big, but not obnoxiously so. And it's totally worth it for those giant negatives.

And I maaaaay just have one of those to sell too

 

[Alan9940]

The THH-WACKK! is one of the best parts of the Hasselblad. THH-WACKK! has never hurt anyone and announces that you have arrived. Why would anyone be afraid to stand up and have themselves announced?

Ha! The sound of my 500C/M is almost "Leica like" vs my Pentax 67!

 

[chuckroast]

The THH-WACKK! is one of the best parts of the Hasselblad. THH-WACKK! has never hurt anyone and announces that you have arrived. Why would anyone be afraid to stand up and have themselves announced?

It can also be tamed somewhat by prereleasing the mirror. I use this routinely on a tripod to minimize camera shake during exposure.

This Just In: SLRs are noiser than RFs. Who knew?