What Hasselblad?

[eli griggs]

I own both, and they are simply VERY different devices. You owe it to yourself to use a borrowed Hasselblad before you invest in one. There are reasons - as others have pointed out - that you may either love or hate the Hasselblad. You will get excellent results from both cameras, and people have done comparisons between the two and found the resulting negatives are very similar from both cameras. In other words, you may not see any improvement in your results by buying a Hasselblad, but you definitely WILL have a very different user experience.

If you do try a Hasselblad, it's best you keep it a week or two of shooting, so you have ample time to disabuse yourself from what you know/like about the Rollie already and have time to appreciate what it is that the Hasselblad offers and requires in return, including at least two magazines loaded with colour and B&W films, two or more lenses with filters, and a tripod and cable release, in addition to hand held.

A rapid winder to equal the TLR winder.

A digital back and a modern instant photograph back and film are also commonly available, and I suggest you rent these in phases, as you give the camera a work out.

Hasselblads are no doubt more versatile than TLRs, but you need to discover it first, for yourself.

P.S. If the noise of the shutter bothers you, rent a good baffle bag to tone things down and pre release the mirror

 

[bags27]

I totally love my Blad. I was a bit intimidated at first because of all the horror stories about not cocking the shutter.

But what I screwed up on is in loading film. A couple of my early rolls I loaded upside down (with the film going over rather than under the spool) and getting no shots.

A couple of things need to be watched with the HB. But so many people have used these over the years, they're not rocket science. Once you feel confident about the basic ways to tear it apart and how it all works together, it's a thing of beauty.

 

[MarkS]

I used Hasselblads on the job for many years. They are rugged machines with great lenses. When shopping for one make sure that the one you buy is not worn out- many Hassies were used hard (and used up) by commercial photographers and wedding shooters. Newer is better; 501C or 503CX are the best. I'd say avoid the 500EL cameras, they were meant for volume shooters (which I assume you are not).
I have no experience with the 2000FC series (with the focal-plane shutter).
The Rollei SL66 is long out of production, few are available, and lenses and accessories are scarce. It may be a fine camera (I've never even seen one) but Hasselblad ruled the US market for decades... so most lenses and accessories are easily available, and there's an installed base of service people.
Someone mentioned the Mamiya twin-lens cameras. Those are workhorses, but I found using them like driving a 1960s 3/4 ton International Harvester pickup- the Hassies are like driving a Volvo station wagon by comparison.

 

[chuckroast]

Let Biogons be Biogons.

Distagon too long ...

 

[Eff64]

…but Hasselblad ruled the US market for decades... so most lenses and accessories are easily available, and there's an installed base of service people.

Would you mind adding the contact information for a couple names?

I think you are right that it should be easier to find service for a Hasselblad than an SL66, but the people qualified to work on them aren’t plentiful and we just lost the best one last month.

As a Hasselblad user, I’m always on the lookout for sources and maybe others here too could benefit from your information in that regard. Thanks

 

[GLS]

but I strongly believe that the best choice is the 501CM

Agreed. It is the choice I also made when getting into the system.

 

[etn]

• They come with a better stock focusing screen called AcuteMate D. The part numbers of these screens start with 422xxx (instead of 421xxx the older series used) and they alone go for $400+

Be very careful with the screen when buying a Hasselblad body. Some sellers replace the otiginal Acute Matte D screen from 501CM/503CW bodies with a cheaper/older one without any “desirable feature” (i.e. the cheapest you can get), and sell the Acute Matte D separately. More profit that way. Therefore double check which screen come with the body you are about to buy and whether it corresponds to what you want (or can live with). Don’t overpay for a 501CM/503CW if the screen is an old, plain one.
Desirable features are: Acute Matte or Acute Matte D, (to me the Acute matte are as good as the D for less money), grid, and focusing aids.

And finally, let me also suggest the 60mm lens as the starter lens instead of a more common 80mm. First, you already have the Rolleiflex if you want this focal length. Second, I found that the 60mm lens trivially does what the 80mm can do, you just need to zoom on your feet a little bit. But every once in a while it can give you a shot the 80mm cannot, when you are space-constrained.

I second this, for the same reasons. Also, the 60mm can focus relatively close without extension rings (closer than the 80mm or the Rolleiflex), which opens up creative options.
After your 60 you’ll want the 120, 180n and SWC. Then all others. Welcome to the rabbit hole of the Hasselblad aficionados

 

[Sirius Glass]

I totally love my Blad. I was a bit intimidated at first because of all the horror stories about not cocking the shutter.

But what I screwed up on is in loading film. A couple of my early rolls I loaded upside down (with the film going over rather than under the spool) and getting no shots.

A couple of things need to be watched with the HB. But so many people have used these over the years, they're not rocket science. Once you feel confident about the basic ways to tear it apart and how it all works together, it's a thing of beauty.

First of all just advance the film as soon as you take a photo. Nothing new here, you have been doing that since you got your first box camera and did not want to have double exposures.

Second, everyone, well almost everyone including people like me who never made a mistake in their life, load a roll of film upside down. Get over it and once done it will not happen again.

Now go out and shoot more film.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I used Hasselblads on the job for many years. They are rugged machines with great lenses. When shopping for one make sure that the one you buy is not worn out- many Hassies were used hard (and used up) by commercial photographers and wedding shooters. Newer is better; 501C or 503CX are the best. I'd say avoid the 500EL cameras, they were meant for volume shooters (which I assume you are not).
I have no experience with the 2000FC series (with the focal-plane shutter).
The Rollei SL66 is long out of production, few are available, and lenses and accessories are scarce. It may be a fine camera (I've never even seen one) but Hasselblad ruled the US market for decades... so most lenses and accessories are easily available, and there's an installed base of service people.
Someone mentioned the Mamiya twin-lens cameras. Those are workhorses, but I found using them like driving a 1960s 3/4 ton International Harvester pickup- the Hassies are like driving a Volvo station wagon by comparison.

My Hasselblad repairman has advised since I started in 2007 to avoid the Hasselblad 200 and 2000 series. One finger through the shutter ends the cameras life. There are no longer replacement parts for the shutters. I have the 503 CX and 903 SWC.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Would you mind adding the contact information for a couple names?

I think you are right that it should be easier to find service for a Hasselblad than an SL66, but the people qualified to work on them aren’t plentiful and we just lost the best one last month.

As a Hasselblad user, I’m always on the lookout for sources and maybe others here too could benefit from your information in that regard. Thanks

Hasselblad in Burbank California
Samys Camera on Fairfax in Los Angeles California
Steve's Camera in Culver City California

 

[blee1996]

In my limited experience with 500C, 500C/M, 501C/M and 553ELX, I like them all and will probably buy any based on condition and past history. Right now my herd is down to 500C with 60mm Distagon and WLF, and a 553ELX with 150mm Sonnar and prism finder. The former is lightweight carry-everywhere kit, while the latter stays on a tripod in the studio for portrait/stills. The entire setup does not cost much.

I'm still saving up for the SWC.

 

[stam6882]

Greetings, I am new to the forum but would like to seek some advices from the Hasselblad fellow users. Currently I have a 503CX and is working fine. I want to get a F body and am looking at 203FE for high shutter speed and a built-in meter. I have a few CF lenses already but thinking about adding a 50mm FE to supplement my traveling. Not sure if anyone has experience with 203FE in terms of reliability and general usage.
BTW, recent prices on all 500 series and 200 series have gone up so much!

 

[mshchem]

Greetings, I am new to the forum but would like to seek some advices from the Hasselblad fellow users. Currently I have a 503CX and is working fine. I want to get a F body and am looking at 203FE for high shutter speed and a built-in meter. I have a few CF lenses already but thinking about adding a 50mm FE to supplement my traveling. Not sure if anyone has experience with 203FE in terms of reliability and general usage.
BTW, recent prices on all 500 series and 200 series have gone up so much!

Hi, welcome to forum! I have a 501cm and a 503cw. In the states you can find folks who will gladly work on the "V" bodies not so the focal plane versions. That would be my biggest concern. I remember seeing the different versions of these cameras and being smitten when these first showed up for sale. They take unique to F body backs too. I see 220 backs but I think someone is hoarding the 120 versions.
Maybe find someone who has an outfit that will give you a "deal"

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hasselblad in Burbank California
Samys Camera on Fairfax in Los Angeles California
Steve's Camera in Culver City California

Greetings, I am new to the forum but would like to seek some advices from the Hasselblad fellow users. Currently I have a 503CX and is working fine. I want to get a F body and am looking at 203FE for high shutter speed and a built-in meter. I have a few CF lenses already but thinking about adding a 50mm FE to supplement my traveling. Not sure if anyone has experience with 203FE in terms of reliability and general usage.
BTW, recent prices on all 500 series and 200 series have gone up so much!

See my post above yours. Avoid the 200 series and 2000 series like the plague!

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[Steven Lee]

See my post above yours. Avoid the 200 series and 2000 series like the plague!

Sirius, that is a great practical advice. But if I win a lottery or any other kind of silly money I'm getting the 203fe. Or maybe 2-3 of them to keep as spares and/or spare part donors. That camera is a dream: everything the 500-series has to offer, plus 1/2000s shutter speed, aperture priority mode, and f/2.8 aperture for the lenses. What's not to like?! Sometimes I'm thinking about selling my entire camera collection just to have a couple of 203fe bodies. Putting repairability aside, that's the perfect Hasselblad.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Sirius, that is a great practical advice. But if I win a lottery or any other kind of silly money I'm getting the 203fe. Or maybe 2-3 of them to keep as spares and/or spare part donors. That camera is a dream: everything the 500-series has to offer, plus 1/2000s shutter speed, aperture priority mode, and f/2.8 aperture for the lenses. What's not to like?! Sometimes I'm thinking about selling my entire camera collection just to have a couple of 203fe bodies. Putting repairability aside, that's the perfect Hasselblad.

Be my guest! Enjoy!

 

[stam6882]

Sirius, that is a great practical advice. But if I win a lottery or any other kind of silly money I'm getting the 203fe. Or maybe 2-3 of them to keep as spares and/or spare part donors. That camera is a dream: everything the 500-series has to offer, plus 1/2000s shutter speed, aperture priority mode, and f/2.8 aperture for the lenses. What's not to like?! Sometimes I'm thinking about selling my entire camera collection just to have a couple of 203fe bodies. Putting repairability aside, that's the perfect Hasselblad.

This is a wonderful suggestion. But I only have the funding for a used 203FE and they are getting more expensive everyday!

203FE is still slightly more expensive in the used market comparing to 503CW. Since I already have the 503CX, I do not see the need to buy a "newer" 503CW hence was looking at a focal pane body to gain higher shutter speed, internal metering and better shooting experience in general. I can see the other side of the argument being difficult to repair for the F body however if the unit is reliable, I would still think it will last for many years. And should the electronic failed one day, I was told 203FE can be used as a 503 with C and CF lenses in a pure mechanical form. Not sure if this is the case.

 

[stam6882]

BTW, if I am able to add a digital back to my V series body, is there any difference in terms of usability/compatibility if my Hasselblad body is 500 or 200 series?

 

[etn]

BTW, if I am able to add a digital back to my V series body, is there any difference in terms of usability/compatibility if my Hasselblad body is 500 or 200 series?

It obviously depends on the back of your choice.
The most practical back (and obviously also the most expensive) is Hasselblad‘s CFV 50c ii (also known as 907x, or more precisely the back is one of the two elements which form the 907x). It does not require any sync cable and does not have a protruding battery (like e.g. the CFV 50c version 1). It is still in production as I write this.
As far as I know it works equally well with the 500 and 200. There’s more detailed info in the user’s manual, available on Hasselblad’s webpage.

Let me know if you want more info on the CFV/907x (I don‘t want to hijack the thread too much.) I’ve had one for 3 years and while I like many aspects of it, I’ll probably sell it soon as I realized it‘s not my cup of tea after all.

 

[Sirius Glass]

This is a wonderful suggestion. But I only have the funding for a used 203FE and they are getting more expensive everyday!

203FE is still slightly more expensive in the used market comparing to 503CW. Since I already have the 503CX, I do not see the need to buy a "newer" 503CW hence was looking at a focal pane body to gain higher shutter speed, internal metering and better shooting experience in general. I can see the other side of the argument being difficult to repair for the F body however if the unit is reliable, I would still think it will last for many years. And should the electronic failed one day, I was told 203FE can be used as a 503 with C and CF lenses in a pure mechanical form. Not sure if this is the case.

Buy a second 503 CX, mount both on a bar and start taking stereo photographs.

 

[warden]

I have the 40FLE, 60, 80, 120, 180, and 250. Of these, the 60 far and away gets the most use. it's just a great all around shooter.

Ditto about the 60. It's just about perfect.

 

[warden]

I have owned Rolleiflexes and Leicas for many years, but I've never had a Hasselblad. I've always wanted one, but I was hesitant because I didn't want to accumulate another set of cameras and lenses. This is especially true given that the Hasselblad features interchangeable lenses, which could potentially mean more equipment and a greater financial investment than I've made with my Rolleiflex. However, I'm now considering purchasing one. I'm interested in models from the 60s or 70s, specifically the 500C/M. I can't pinpoint exactly why, but I just like the camera, and some of my favorite photographers have used it.

I own a Rolleiflex 2.8F, and I adore its build quality and how it feels in my hands. I'm hoping for a similar experience with a Hasselblad. Do you think the 500C/M is the right choice?

Just be sure that the hasselblad system is offering you something that you want that the Rollieflex lacks. I don't know what that might be for you. I thought I'd really like having multiple backs with different films at the ready for instance, but never use that feature as it turns out. If you buy carefully you can experiment with the Hassy and sell it later without losing too much money. Have fun!

 

[stam6882]

It obviously depends on the back of your choice.
The most practical back (and obviously also the most expensive) is Hasselblad‘s CFV 50c ii (also known as 907x, or more precisely the back is one of the two elements which form the 907x). It does not require any sync cable and does not have a protruding battery (like e.g. the CFV 50c version 1). It is still in production as I write this.
As far as I know it works equally well with the 500 and 200. There’s more detailed info in the user’s manual, available on Hasselblad’s webpage.

Let me know if you want more info on the CFV/907x (I don‘t want to hijack the thread too much.) I’ve had one for 3 years and while I like many aspects of it, I’ll probably sell it soon as I realized it‘s not my cup of tea after all.

I am not sure if using the CFV back gives similar result comparing to say X1D. Would you be able to elaborate what aspects you are not happy with on the CFV?

 

[Steven Lee]

@etn I too would be interested in your experience. I've glanced through the CFV 50c manual and still miss the complete picture of what it feels like to use it on a 500-series body. It appears to be sensing the moment when the barn doors open somehow, and then it actives its own shutter. But how's metering taking place? Do you have to use an external meter as with film and set the exposure and aperture manually for each shot?

 

[itsdoable]

.... And should the electronic failed one day, I was told 203FE can be used as a 503 with C and CF lenses in a pure mechanical form. Not sure if this is the case.

The 203fe and the 2000fcw will work in C mode without a battery, and function like a 500/503 with CF lenses.