What Hasselblad?

[Steven Lee]

On a different topic, anyone has insights on traveling with the Hasselblad?

I agree with those who said that a Hasselblad with one of its smaller lenses like the 80mm plus a single film back is not much bigger than a Rolleiflex, as I use both cameras.

My preference is to travel with a single 60mm lens as it's quite a bit lighter and more versatile than the 50mm. This is subjective, of course. One advice I have received from someone was that if you're shipping a Hasselblad or preparing it for a checked-in luggage, it's best to separate the back and the body (good to have a back cover). Anecdotally, that's what KEH and Japanese sellers do when you buy a kit from them, so I follow this advice as well.

 

[stam6882]

I agree with those who said that a Hasselblad with one of its smaller lenses like the 80mm plus a single film back is not much bigger than a Rolleiflex, as I use both cameras.

My preference is to travel with a single 60mm lens as it's quite a bit lighter and more versatile than the 50mm. This is subjective, of course. One advice I have received from someone was that if you're shipping a Hasselblad or preparing it for a checked-in luggage, it's best to separate the back and the body (good to have a back cover). Anecdotally, that's what KEH and Japanese sellers do when you buy a kit from them, so I follow this advice as well.

Good advice. I already have a 80mm C and a 50mm CF but I do like the idea of a lighter 60mm F3.5. Not sure if i need this focal range so close to 80mm and 50mm though.

 

[Steven Lee]

Not sure if i need this focal range so close to 80mm and 50mm though.

The practical delta between 50 and 60 is far greater than between 60 and 80. I know this feels weird, but that's my experience. The 60 becomes 80 by making a step forward, but the 50 begins showing the characteristic wide angle drama which you can't replicate with the 60 by stepping back.

Here's an example where a 50mm photo cannot be done with a 60:

The bottom line: sell the 80mm

 

[Sirius Glass]

The practical delta between 50 and 60 is far greater than between 60 and 80. I know this feels weird, but that's my experience. The 60 becomes 80 by making a step forward, but the 50 begins showing the characteristic wide angle drama which you can't replicate with the 60 by stepping back.

Here's an example where a 50mm photo cannot be done with a 60:

View attachment 349402

The bottom line: sell the 80mm

We are assuming that one knows how to handle a wide angle lens and use the viewfinder before taking a photograph. Using the 60mm alone instead of the 50mm and 80mm will be limiting in my not so humble opinion [IMNSHO].

 

[stam6882]

The 203fe and the 2000fcw will work in C mode without a battery, and function like a 500/503 with CF lenses.

I also vaguely remember someone mentioned that certain model of 203FE does not meter in C Mode on CF lenses (i.e. using leaf shutter). However Ernest's Hasselbald Manual suggested CF lenses can be metered with 203FE under "C" mode. I have been considering the 203FE but want to know if my CF lenses can be metered when using the leaf shutters. Any expert advice?

 

[Sirius Glass]

I also vaguely remember someone mentioned that certain model of 203FE does not meter in C Mode on CF lenses (i.e. using leaf shutter). However Ernest's Hasselbald Manual suggested CF lenses can be metered with 203FE under "C" mode. I have been considering the 203FE but want to know if my CF lenses can be metered when using the leaf shutters. Any expert advice?

My Hasselblad repair man advises to avoid the Hasselblad 200 and 2000 series because of parts and service problems. Stick with the V Series.

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[Steven Lee]

I also vaguely remember someone mentioned that certain model of 203FE does not meter in C Mode on CF lenses (i.e. using leaf shutter). However Ernest's Hasselbald Manual suggested CF lenses can be metered with 203FE under "C" mode. I have been considering the 203FE but want to know if my CF lenses can be metered when using the leaf shutters. Any expert advice?

I am not an expert, but "Appendix A" in the 203FE user manual covers this pretty well. It says all CF lenses can be used for metering in Ab, D, and A mode, but you have to manually close the aperture, which makes sense. TBH this feels more awkward than simply using an external light meter.

What you're referring to is probably the 202FA, not 203FE. That's a weird model with several limitations which I don't understand the purpose of.

 

[stam6882]

I am not an expert, but "Appendix A" in the 203FE user manual covers this pretty well. It says all CF lenses can be used for metering in Ab, D, and A mode, but you have to manually close the aperture, which makes sense. TBH this feels more awkward than simply using an external light meter.

What you're referring to is probably the 202FA, not 203FE. That's a weird model with several limitations which I don't understand the purpose of.

I think the confusion is what metering mode you are in. If the metering mode is in manual (M), metering does not work with leaf shutter under C Mode. But metering will work with Ab, D and A under C Mode provided you also stop down the lens aperture. It's a very strange design to enforce backward compatibility I think.

 

[itsdoable]

I also vaguely remember someone mentioned that certain model of 203FE does not meter in C Mode on CF lenses (i.e. using leaf shutter). However Ernest's Hasselbald Manual suggested CF lenses can be metered with 203FE under "C" mode. I have been considering the 203FE but want to know if my CF lenses can be metered when using the leaf shutters. Any expert advice?

My 203fe is from 1995, and when you put it into "C" mode, the meter and display turn off. Another member has a later one, and his meter stays on when you select "C" mode. In practice, it just means you have to move it out of "C" mode to get a meter reading, but I prefer using a hand-held meter when shooting "C". Either way, you have to manually transfer the f-number and speed (or EV) to the lens.

There are cosmetic differences (improvements) between the early and latter models, my meter button is exposed, so when you throw the body into a camera bag, it often gets pressed, and drains the battery, The latter models have a subtle raised ridge around that button to prevent this (I glued an o-ring around the button, which solved my battery draining issue).

 

[stam6882]

My 203fe is from 1995, and when you put it into "C" mode, the meter and display turn off. Another member has a later one, and his meter stays on when you select "C" mode. In practice, it just means you have to move it out of "C" mode to get a meter reading, but I prefer using a hand-held meter when shooting "C". Either way, you have to manually transfer the f-number and speed (or EV) to the lens.

There are cosmetic differences (improvements) between the early and latter models, my meter button is exposed, so when you throw the body into a camera bag, it often gets pressed, and drains the battery, The latter models have a subtle raised ridge around that button to prevent this (I glued an o-ring around the button, which solved my battery draining issue).

Make sense. However is your version also having the metering turned off when in A mode on the 203FE body (and not M mode)?

 

[itsdoable]

Make sense. However is your version also having the metering turned off when in A mode on the 203FE body (and not M mode)?

My meter is off in C mode. Period. Full stop.

 

[JWMster]

FWIW, I've resisted the 'Blad after my non-TLR Rolleiflex MF failures. Rollei's non-TLR's (with possible exception of SL66 which I didn't try) were just too fiddly and undependable.... indicating why pro's preferred Hassy's. Yes I loved the lenses for the 6008 that rumored internal Zeiss designer comments noted were better than their Hasselblad equivalents, and love the 6008 when it worked... and the sound of it's shutter - like a Mercedes door! - but in the end the backs were something of a nightmare and I let it go. Mild regrets? Not really.... more that I didn't pick up a Hassy at the first instead. So I still am scarred by the whole external back Rolleiflex problems.... and boy do I know the issue of interlocking lock-ups if you aren't careful. I still have my 3.5F TLR... though as much as I love the silent shutter and the shots, there's something about the film path I'm wondering whether it just picks up more dust.... even after a CLA.... than with my Pentax 645N. The P645N is a great and under rated camera... and pretty much covers the walking around camera thing for me with film.... so that my thought is eventually to dump the rest of my 35mm gear (keep my Fuji X series digital instead) and work in 4X5 and 120 for film.... where the film choice and ease of use with 120 offers a balance to the science of 4X5. Digital is work... production, all that. Film is for free time.... 'cause the analog-ness is just a good and wonderful thing... even if it can be painful as well. And who knows, maybe the 4X5 eventually slides....

But now with my "back to film for the joy of it" moment, I'm thinking of trading out the rest of my Fuji GFX gear for a Hassy V series, too. Yet I hear Hassy's require reasonably regular service... and that's kind of a "where in 2023 and on..." will that be available? Curiously, I'm seeing in some cases that 501CM bodies can top the price of 503CX's.... and after Steve's comments on these two, I wonder if he bumped the prices up.... or if that's just an anomaly? I very much appreciate Steve's comments on diopter adjustment.... as a geezer myself. Move to pickup a P645N represented something of a bow to AF's pluses and built-in diopter adjustment, too.... EVEN though I still read and drive without specs. But that said, sometimes the size of the print on a camera or lens means you gotta pull out the specs!

Also appreciate the advice for what is it? A12 Type III backs as "more reliable" (certainly more pricey!). And hadn't expected to hear anything about the dark slide! so that's good to know. The 50-80-150mm seems a good set, but there's no rush in any of this IMHO, and one-at-a-time is fine.

Rental trial seems a good approach to confirm whether or not any of this might be a good replacement for the TLR to keep a 6X6 in my life. And I'm saying this after scanning some 6X6's I'd taken this summer before picking up the P645N... where it's the framing and the shots ...if I don't say so myself, some damn good shots! I like the 645 frame, too, and the lighter camera the Pentax offers, but why just one? Bigamy with cameras isn't forbidden.... even within the "same" film size.

 

[Sirius Glass]

FWIW, I've resisted the 'Blad after my non-TLR Rolleiflex MF failures. Rollei's non-TLR's (with possible exception of SL66 which I didn't try) were just too fiddly and undependable.... indicating why pro's preferred Hassy's. Yes I loved the lenses for the 6008 that rumored internal Zeiss designer comments noted were better than their Hasselblad equivalents, and love the 6008 when it worked... and the sound of it's shutter - like a Mercedes door! - but in the end the backs were something of a nightmare and I let it go. Mild regrets? Not really.... more that I didn't pick up a Hassy at the first instead. So I still am scarred by the whole external back Rolleiflex problems.... and boy do I know the issue of interlocking lock-ups if you aren't careful. I still have my 3.5F TLR... though as much as I love the silent shutter and the shots, there's something about the film path I'm wondering whether it just picks up more dust.... even after a CLA.... than with my Pentax 645N. The P645N is a great and under rated camera... and pretty much covers the walking around camera thing for me with film.... so that my thought is eventually to dump the rest of my 35mm gear (keep my Fuji X series digital instead) and work in 4X5 and 120 for film.... where the film choice and ease of use with 120 offers a balance to the science of 4X5. Digital is work... production, all that. Film is for free time.... 'cause the analog-ness is just a good and wonderful thing... even if it can be painful as well. And who knows, maybe the 4X5 eventually slides....

But now with my "back to film for the joy of it" moment, I'm thinking of trading out the rest of my Fuji GFX gear for a Hassy V series, too. Yet I hear Hassy's require reasonably regular service... and that's kind of a "where in 2023 and on..." will that be available? Curiously, I'm seeing in some cases that 501CM bodies can top the price of 503CX's.... and after Steve's comments on these two, I wonder if he bumped the prices up.... or if that's just an anomaly? I very much appreciate Steve's comments on diopter adjustment.... as a geezer myself. Move to pickup a P645N represented something of a bow to AF's pluses and built-in diopter adjustment, too.... EVEN though I still read and drive without specs. But that said, sometimes the size of the print on a camera or lens means you gotta pull out the specs!

Also appreciate the advice for what is it? A12 Type III backs as "more reliable" (certainly more pricey!). And hadn't expected to hear anything about the dark slide! so that's good to know. The 50-80-150mm seems a good set, but there's no rush in any of this IMHO, and one-at-a-time is fine.

Rental trial seems a good approach to confirm whether or not any of this might be a good replacement for the TLR to keep a 6X6 in my life. And I'm saying this after scanning some 6X6's I'd taken this summer before picking up the P645N... where it's the framing and the shots ...if I don't say so myself, some damn good shots! I like the 645 frame, too, and the lighter camera the Pentax offers, but why just one? Bigamy with cameras isn't forbidden.... even within the "same" film size.

Hasselblad, like any other camera can be broken if instructions are not followed. The Hasselblad rules are easy;

• Keep the lenses and camera bodies cocked
• Never remove a lens, extension tube or extender without all items being cocked.
• Use the recocking tool to recock lenses, which can be used inside the camera body or on the lens directly - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...hassy_tool_camerakey_tool_for_hasselblad.html
  
• Recocking an unmounted lens
• Unjamming a Hasselblad http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2b.htm
• Add extension tubes or extenders starting closest to the body and add more extenders building out, putting on the lens last. Recock the camera always and then remove each item from the farthest out first and continue removing the farthest out component until all have been removed.

 

[GLS]

maybe the 4X5 eventually slides....

There is nothing quite like a large format transparency.

 

[JWMster]

Yes, nothing. But LF ain't about that IMHO, it's about manipulating the plane(s) of focus for the message.

 

[chuckroast]

Yes, nothing. But LF ain't about that IMHO, it's about manipulating the plane(s) of focus for the message.

And here I thought it was about building upper body strength ...

 

[JWMster]

At my age, it's more like breaking it down one part at a time. Ouch!

 

[Sirius Glass]

Hasselblad, like any other camera can be broken if instructions are not followed. The Hasselblad rules are easy;

• Keep the lenses and camera bodies cocked
• Never remove a lens, extension tube or extender without all items being cocked.
• Use the recocking tool to recock lenses, which can be used inside the camera body or on the lens directly - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/prod...hassy_tool_camerakey_tool_for_hasselblad.html View attachment 350963
• Recocking an unmounted lens
• Unjamming a Hasselblad http://www.dmin-dmax.fr/photoe2b.htm
• Add extension tubes or extenders starting closest to the body and add more extenders building out, putting on the lens last. Recock the camera always and then remove each item from the farthest out first and continue removing the farthest out component until all have been removed.

Also my Hasselblad repairman recommends that each Hasselblad lens [he recommends this for all lenses regardless of brands] be fired 10 to 15 times a 1 second every three months to keep lenses properly lubricated and avoid lenses jamming. I have been doing this for years and only one very heavily used lens [before I purchased it] needed the shutter shaft replaced. The rest of the lenses function correctly. I mark my calendar to remind me to fire all the lenses on 1 January, 1 April, 1 July and 1 September October every year.

 

[Mike Lopez]

Also my Hasselblad repairman recommends that each Hasselblad lens [he recommends this for all lenses regardless of brands] be fired 10 to 15 times a 1 second every three months to keep lenses properly lubricated and avoid lenses jamming. I have been doing this for years and only one very heavily used lens [before I purchased it] needed the shutter shaft replaced. The rest of the lenses function correctly. I mark my calendar to remind me to fire all the lenses on 1 January, 1 April, 1 July and 1 September every year.

1 July —-> 1 September = 2 months
1 September —> 1 January = 4 months

 

[Sirius Glass]

Also my Hasselblad repairman recommends that each Hasselblad lens [he recommends this for all lenses regardless of brands] be fired 10 to 15 times a 1 second every three months to keep lenses properly lubricated and avoid lenses jamming. I have been doing this for years and only one very heavily used lens [before I purchased it] needed the shutter shaft replaced. The rest of the lenses function correctly. I mark my calendar to remind me to fire all the lenses on 1 January, 1 April, 1 July and 1 September October every year.

That should work better.

 

[Slixtiesix]

Yes, exercising the shutters once in a season is a good advise which I follow too. By the way, the 2000 and 200 Series are marvellous cameras, which I would not ignore categorically, but I would not pay too much for them either. They are reliable, but in case some important part breaks, as Sirius said, it is often beyond repair.
Friend of mine bought a 2000FC and a 202FA eight years ago for very little money and enjoys them ever since. The lenses (110/2 especially) are spectacular when it comes to bokeh and sharpness.

I also agree with many others here that it would be more sensible to look for a newer camera. A Hasselblad from the late 80s or 90s has many improved mechanical parts compared to the models from the 60s and 70s and has likely seen less use. On the other hand, the prices are not that much higher to justify buying an older model. A late 500CM, 500 Classic, 501C, 503CX or 503CXi is probably the best bargain. As is the 553ELX if you not not mind the extra weight of the motor and batteries.

If you want to estimate the "mileage" of a Hasselblad, look critically for paint loss around the magazine mount, lens mount and waist level finder. This is usually a good indicator (unless the previous user never changed the lens and the magazine and had replace the waist level finder for a prism during the time of ownership).

 

[RezaLoghme]

After many painful and expensive lessons: buy the youngest and best maintained camera that you can stretch to afford.

 

[Sirius Glass]

After many painful and expensive lessons: buy the youngest and best maintained camera that you can stretch to afford.

That is a wise move, as long as one sticks to the V Series and avoids buying 200 Series or 2000 Series. That way one does not get caught in the focal shutter supply and services.

 

[RezaLoghme]

If and when it gets caught. V series can also break and become uneconomical to repair.

 

[lecarp]

The THH-WACKK! is one of the best parts of the Hasselblad. THH-WACKK! has never hurt anyone and announces that you have arrived. Why would anyone be afraid to stand up and have themselves announced?

You've not really THH-WACKKED until you've been Zenza Bronica S2a THH-WACKKED!