What films did you shoot most recently? (Part 2)

Fomapan 100 in my Widelux F7 panorama camera (135 film, 59x24 mm neg.)

Poisson Du Jour said:

The aim should not be to get "really sharp images" from any pinhole of any size with any film, as that negates the whole purpose of the primitive type of camera being used; just let the camera be a pinhole camera and use any film on a whim.

I was given two (120) rolls of CMS II to run through two cameras: either my Hassie 6x6 or (the preferred) Pentax 67 — the 67 shooting with the SMCP f2.8 75mm AL lens @ f5.6. Adox makes an interesting point of going some way to using highly corrected lenses stopped down a couple of clicks to attentuate the film's characteristics. I know from every day use the 75mm knows how to boogie.

I anticipate exposing a roll of CMS II on World Pinhole Day (24th April). It will be developed in Adotech II as per the lab's recommendation for "first test", and any changes will be taken from there after critical viewing. But first just a simple, non-scientific experiment with this film as a comparison to my usual stock of Acros 100. My shoot is expected to take place in a rainforest. God help me if it's overcast, damp and dim. I could be looking at a quite long exposure, all the while fending off leeches and snails...

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Thanks. I haven't dipped into pinhole yet. But that RSS 6x17 camera is beautiful.

I fear that rainforest and CMS 20 will probably not go together. But since you're using SPUR chemistry, it will definitely give better results than others.

Bests,
Ashfaque

Kodak Ektar 100, beautiful stuff.

not sure what it was, but it was in a camea i just piced up to expose a few frames

I've got 25 films to get developed:

19 x 120 roll film:
- 15 x Fuji NPC 160 (exp. 2004) roll film (Hassy SWC, RealitSyoSubtle, Agfa Clack, Agfa Click Pinhole, PinHolga)
- 2x Fomapan 200 roll film (Hassy SWC, Agfa Clack)
- 1x Kodak Portra (Yashica Mat 124-G)
- 1x 100Tmax (Expired)

6x 135 film:
- 1x Fomapan 100 (Widelux F7 panorama camera)
- 1x Foma Retropan Soft (Nikon F)
- 1x Fuji Neopan 400 (expired) (Nikon F)
- 1x Fuji NPH400 (expired 2008) Nikon FM3a
- 1x Revue 100 slide film (Olympus Mju I)
- 1x Agfa CT Precisia 100 slide film (Cosina CX-2)

I'm especially looking forward to the RealitySoSublte 6x17 images, mostly handheld exposures for 20 - 40 seconds
Of all 25 films 18 were shot in the last two weeks. Some were for testing my new-old cameras, like the RealitySoSubtle, Yashica Mat, my 2nd Hassy SWC, the Cosina CX-2, Agfa Clack and the Mju I.
I hope to see some results end of next week.

TheToadMen said:

I've got 25 films to get developed:

19 x 120 roll film:
- 15 x Fuji NPC 160 (exp. 2004) roll film (Hassy SWC, RealitSyoSubtle, Agfa Clack, Agfa Click Pinhole, PinHolga)
- 2x Fomapan 200 roll film (Hassy SWC, Agfa Clack)
- 1x Kodak Portra (Yashica Mat 124-G)
- 1x 100Tmax (Expired)

6x 135 film:
- 1x Fomapan 100 (Widelux F7 panorama camera)
- 1x Foma Retropan Soft (Nikon F)
- 1x Fuji Neopan 400 (expired) (Nikon F)
- 1x Fuji NPH400 (expired 2008) Nikon FM3a
- 1x Revue 100 slide film (Olympus Mju I)
- 1x Agfa CT Precisia 100 slide film (Cosina CX-2)

I'm especially looking forward to the RealitySoSublte 6x17 images, mostly handheld exposures for 20 - 40 seconds
Of all 25 films 18 were shot in the last two weeks. Some were for testing my new-old cameras, like the RealitySoSubtle, Yashica Mat, my 2nd Hassy SWC, the Cosina CX-2, Agfa Clack and the Mju I.
I hope to see some results end of next week.

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Holy smokes, that's a heck of a blend! You must really like to experiment.

Shooting my last stock of 4x5 Kodak Ektachrome 100VS in ReadyLoads.

20-40 secs! That is some steady hands! Are you, by any chance, a surgeon, or a pianist? I can't even hold my camera steady for 2 secs!

I'd love to see those RSS images too. That could be my 1st pinhole camera.

Bests,

Ashfaque

During the last 20 days:

6x TMAX 400 135/36 Leica M6
1x TMAX 400 135/36 Nikon 35 Ti (always in my bag/pocket)
3x Fuji Reala 100 120 Lomo LC-A 120
1x Fuji Reala 100 120 Linhof 6x9
1x Acros 100 Widelux F VI

Leica M6 has already a new TXAX 400 loaded and Lomo LC-A 120 a new Reala (expired from 2012 but frozen)

The last 6 months looks like this:

Kodak Double-X 55
Kodak TMAX100 5
Fuji Neopan 400 Presto 2
Fuji Neopan Acros 100 2
Fuji Neopan 1600 1
Kodak TMAX400 1
Kodak TriX 2

I prefer to shoot only one film which for the last year and some months has been Double X. The TMAX100's and Fuji Acros and Neopan 400 were Medium Format and the few odd rolls of TMAX400 / TriX / Neopan 1600 were just some leftovers. I will clean out my fridge and only shoot DoubleX for 135 and Fuji Acros 100 for MF.

Ben

I've been shooting a lot of Ilford Delta 400 lately. I bought a few rolls when I bought my Canon EOS-1V a couple months ago, and was really pleased with the tonality, so I ordered 10 more rolls, which I have only 2 of left. Time to get more!

APX 100, I get these film in local drug store.

Ashfaque said:

20-40 secs! That is some steady hands! Are you, by any chance, a surgeon, or a pianist? I can't even hold my camera steady for 2 secs!
I'd love to see those RSS images too. That could be my 1st pinhole camera.

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No pianist, no surgeon, just crazy enough to try. I'll let you know how it works out.
The RSS is a beautiful camera to handle. I also got me the RSS 4x5" but haven't used it yet.

Picked up the over 10 years expired roll of Superia 400 XTRA from being processed and scanned. Surprisingly, most of the photos look normal, color-wise. A bit amazed. Film was never refrigerated, nor stored in a freezer (we're talking about the City of Seattle here - got these at their surplus store last year).

-J

John_Nikon_F said:

Picked up the over 10 years expired roll of Superia 400 XTRA from being processed and scanned. Surprisingly, most of the photos look normal, color-wise. A bit amazed. Film was never refrigerated, nor stored in a freezer (we're talking about the City of Seattle here - got these at their surplus store last year).

-J

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Fuji Superia Xtra is very good film. I've got several rolls from 2003 an older - never properly stored - and still use it without problems. If at all then the colour shift is often beautifully into fine pastel tones. Also perfect for my pinhole images.
Not so for elder , Kodak Gold film: these tend to turn into a muddy, ugly brown.

Ashfaque said:

20-40 secs! That is some steady hands! Are you, by any chance, a surgeon, or a pianist? I can't even hold my camera steady for 2 secs!

I'd love to see those RSS images too. That could be my 1st pinhole camera.

Bests,

Ashfaque

Click to expand...

I just about managed 4 once, by resting it on one knee....

Foma 200 in 135 and 120 format. Curious to process the film in FX-39 to see how they end up looking.

Franka Solida IIIe
Agfa APX 25 EI20
Rodinal 1:50 for 10 minutes

Been shooting a LOT of

120 HP5+ @1600 an. @3200
120 TMY-2

And a few
8x10 Acros100

Now that school is over and spring is here for real (I hope) I hope I can find an opportunity to shoot some 8x10 Velvia50

135 Fuji Velvia 100F one of my Canon New F1's.

Fuji Acros (from bulk roll) in my Minolta SRT101

Yesterday I shot a homemade 7x11 inch calotype.

A comedy of errors:

Mistake #1: I lost control of the paper curling during sensitizing the night before, and had to manually "unroll" the paper. Usually if I mess up that badly, I'd throw it away and sensitize a new paper, but this was my last sheet of iodized paper, so I went ahead with it.

I was going to the beach. My previous beach calotype was shot for LV16 ( to account for extra UV at the ocean ), and was just a tad underexposed ( but fine ), so I went to review my exposure notes...

Mistake #2: Instead of looking at my handwritten notes, I looked at the notes I posted on Ipernity and Flickr for that last seaside calotype. They say I treated it as LV16, but when I looked at the exposure time and aperture ( f/32 ), it looked right for LV15. So I thought to myself: " I may have intended to use LV16, but I used LV15 by mistake...and it was slightly underexposed! I'll start at my metered value today and even err on the side of exposing a bit more".

After exposing the calotype ( for sunny LV15, and erring on the side of a little extra ), I went to write in my notebook and saw the entry for my earlier calotype was f/45. I had exposed correctly for LV16 after all. My notes on Flickr and Ipernity, written from memory, had the f-stop wrong.

OK no problem, I've got an overexposed calotype. I'll develop it slowly and carefully and all will be fine. That's one of the good things about calotypes: there is a lot of leeway in development.

Mistake #3: assuming you can judge UV at the beach at all. My calotype was not overexposed. Not even close. I was being super cautious about not adding too much silver nitrate as it developed, but it came up really slowly... way too slowly. I kept adding a little more and a little more... at 3 minutes, 10 minutes, 18 minutes, 28 minutes..... around this time I was realizing that the negative was just about perfectly exposed and would have come up normally if I'd starting with a normal amount of silver nitrate. The shadow details on the rocks were perfect, and the only problem was lack of density in the water and sky... it's going to take another 15 or 20 minutes but I can still make a good negative.

Mistake #4: I use a flashlight with an orange filter taped over it to view my calotypes as they are developing. The batteries died. It would come on for about 1 or 2 seconds and then fade to nothing... so to judge my development, I had to position the light and turn it on and try to see well enough before it went out again! It was very difficult. I need to keep spare batteries in there!

The last straw: So I went to add yet more silver nitrate.... the negative still too weak but I'm sure it can be intensified enough to print well. I reached over ( in the dark ) and got my dropper bottle ( I had put it away, thinking I was done with it )
Weird... the bottle had been mostly empty and I was having trouble getting the amount I wanted into the dropper, but this time the dropper filled right up easily... that was lucky . The developer liquid immediately turned inky black ... I was sitting there trying to understand what I was seeing when I looked at the dropper bottle: 35 minutes into my developing I had squirted in an eyedropper of 10% sulfamic acid! ( No flashlight to double check the dropper bottle label like I usually would -- my safelight too dim to see it easily! ) Okay.... drain, wash, wash, fix.... after all that the negative is weak and of course there are bad flaws from the curling the night before.

I didn't really learn anything. I made the wrong exposure, but it turned out to be perfect... I still have no idea how to judge UV at the coast.. it seems to depend on how much moisture / haze/ fog is in the air and the relative position of the sun and water ( yesterday, the sun was on the LAND side, not on the sea side ).

I still had a nice day over at the beach, met some nice German tourists who wanted to know about my camera.... confirmed yet again that to make a successful calotype requires a long series of operations all done well... with all sorts of things that can go wrong. Looking forward to trying again!

Hi Ned,
I was thinking about how to judge UV outdoors and indoors too. I think I'll get me a proper UV exposure meter from Dead Link Removed

A roll of 35mm Ilford Pan 400, using the 35mm adapter for the 'plastic piece of crap' (a.k.a. Holga). It will be interesting to see how it did.

A few frames of AgfaPhoto CT Precisa 100, and also a few frames of Rollei IR400s, both 35mm. After I finish off the roll of IR400s, I've got a roll of Delta 400 in 35mm to try out. I've never shot any of the Delta films yet, so this could be interesting and fun.