Hey Tatty,Wowwww now I'm really confused!
Far as I can tell the negatives look good and developed nicely. They were developed in DDX for 9 mins
I thought everyone was talking about the print not being developed for long enough at 1min in ilford multigrade....
You can lay them on top of some negative holders.£50 is WAY more than I can afford right now, especially as there are already some in the darkroom.
They are Ilford ones, thin sheets of red/yellow plastic....
I should be able to sandwidge them between the negative and the light source. Or does it have to be bellow the negative?
Squeezing it in there will be trickier.
There are 2 safe lights, both the other side of the room to the enlarger, but one is no more than a meter directly above the sink where I did the developing.
How would I go about checking if this is causing a problem?
Also how would I go about checking the paper is ok?
It does have a little drawer at the top with a glass plate and a lens in, i did wonder if that was where a filter would go, but it also got pretty warm in there after being on for a while focusing and lining the image up. Was slightly worried the filter would melt....
wiltw's test will work, but there are some refinements that make it better.If you suspect light leaks or safelight fogging, simply lay a piece of enlarging paper face up on the counter, put a few coins on the surface of the paper, and let it sit there for perhaps 5 minutes. At the end of the time, remove the coins and process the paper. If your darkroom is not 'safe', you will see outlines of the coins in the fogging around where the coins obscured the light.
If you see fogging, then you need to repeat the test to determine if it is incompatible safelight, or if the room has light leaks...run another test with safelight turned off, if fogging, then you know room itself has leaks.
You should look at the print NOT the clock when developing a print. The print will tell you when development is finished.
Second, if you have a number of coins, it is useful to use several sizes (1 cent, 5 cents, 10 cents, 25 cents, etc.) .
It worries me that you mention yellow and red filters unless these are the colours you think you see on the colour head. Actually the colours are yellow. magenta and cyan. On a closer look at the separate filters are they pale yellow and then progressively more magenta? This is what MG filters should be. You could use these but they may be old and faded. I'd use the colour head filters which don't fade and then as a test try out the separate filters to see if they match the grades from the colour head filters and give as good a print. Unless the separate filters have the grade numbers on them you may have to experiment to make sure you have them in the correct grade sequence.
Despite money being a problem I'd try and obtain Tim Rudman's book : "The Photographer's Master Printing Course" as soon as possible. Worth its weight in gold, in my opinion. Abe Books or Alibris should have secondhand copies for a reasonable price
pentaxuser
It looks like it has a little filter holder under the lens. Does it?It does have a little drawer at the top with a glass plate and a lens in, i did wonder if that was where a filter would go, but it also got pretty warm in there after being on for a while focusing and lining the image up. Was slightly worried the filter would melt....
...There are 2 safe lights, both the other side of the room to the enlarger, but one is no more than a meter directly above the sink where I did the developing....
What for to thank him for playing you all for fools..........I've just sent a PM to you TattyJJ.
Terry S
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