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hiroh

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Today I dropped my beloved Pentax Digital Spot Meter in a puddle for a second, and it immediately stopped working. In fact, the display is working but showing always zero.

Any idea what could be damaged here and is there a chance it will work again when it gets dry? It’s a bummer that it got damaged so quickly because it was in the water for a literally a second, but I guess this old technology was not well sealed as todays technology.
 

Bill Burk

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Might be a circuit board or connector to the sensor came unplugged from the shock of the drop. Happened to me once with a different brand and all I had to do was plug it back in
 
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hiroh

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Oh, I wish is something like that. I’m in mountains and I don’t have a small screwdriver to open it. Will try to find it somewhere tomorrow.
 

Vaughn

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I was given the choice of dropping the Pentax Digital Pot in the creek or letting the 8x10 w/ lens topple into the creek. I chose to let the meter hit the water, but I could stablize the 8x10 and fish the meter out before it hit the main current and headed towards the Merced River. I was at my favorite last-photo-before-leaving-Yosemite place, so I said "blast it anyway" and packed up and headed the 400 miles home. left the meter off, may have removed the battery, left it in a warm ventilated place, and waited a couple weeks before turning it on. Worked fine and still works many years later.

I suggest using the meter in the baggie stuffed with white rice (or lidded tupperware bowl, etc) trick. Air-tight and full of rice. That will absorb moisture from the meter. Over-night, perhaps longer. Probably lots of YouTube videos on it for saving iphones, etc. Then give it another try.

PS open up the battery compartment before putting it in the rice.
 
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hiroh

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Vaughn, this happened in Yosemite today! Can’t believe the coincidence. Don’t bring your Pentax Digital Spot Meters in Yosemite!

My first reaction today was to remove the battery, which I did. Another thought was the rice, but I didn’t do it until now. Fortunately the house I’m staying in has a lot of rice :smile:

I’ll check it again tomorrow and see if that helped.
 

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I once dropped my Pentax digital spotmeter, luckily on the soft humus in the woods, but fared worse the next time...
So I attached a long necklace, long enough so I can put the meter in my vest pocket or a pouch attached to the backpack's belt while it still hangs around the neck.
I used a 1,8m long shoelace for walking boots, the flat ones are easier to prey into the meter's lace opening.
 
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hiroh

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I once dropped my Pentax digital spotmeter, luckily on the soft humus in the woods, but fared worse the next time...
So I attached a long necklace, long enough so I can put the meter in my vest pocket or a pouch attached to the backpack's belt while it still hangs around the neck.
I used a 1,8m long shoelace for walking boots, the flat ones are easier to prey into the meter's lace opening.
I was fiddling with two cameras, two kids and a tripod, and the meter somehow slipped out when I was reaching it with one remaining finger from my pocket.
 

Philippe-Georges

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Vaughn, this happened in Yosemite today! Can’t believe the coincidence. Don’t bring your Pentax Digital Spot Meters in Yosemite!

My first reaction today was to remove the battery, which I did. Another thought was the rice, but I didn’t do it until now. Fortunately the house I’m staying in has a lot of rice :smile:

I’ll check it again tomorrow and see if that helped.

If there is no rice, a hair dryer, set to the lowest temperature and the lowest airflow, can help.
Remove the battery, do NOT BLOW INTO any (battery-) opening, just on the body so to warm it up a little and create an airflow around the meter so to let the moister evaporate/escape via the opening.
Don't overheat nor rush, just take your time and use some common sense...
 

Philippe-Georges

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I was fiddling with two cameras, two kids and a tripod, and the meter somehow slipped out when I was reaching it with one remaining finger from my pocket.

A good reason for a (long-) necklace...
BTW, good you dropped the meter and not the kids 😉...
 

Vaughn

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Fortunately kids bounce and are relatively self-repairing, if one can avoid the body shops.

My trick was to hunt for an image, spread out a blanket with lunch spread out on top, and get the photo done before the three little guys finished eating and started doing laps under the legs holding the 11x14.

Worked well in this case below. The boys would have been 4 and a half, so I would have had to work fast! As a bonus, the set-up was along side an old dirt road and no other traffic, so it was the van, then a blanket with three guys eating/playing, and then my tripod with the 11x14 on top.

Two Redwoods, 2001
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (Cal-Barrel Road)
f64 at 30 seconds
11x14 w/ 355mm lens
 

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Philippe-Georges

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Fortunately kids bounce and are relatively self-repairing, if one can avoid the body shops.

My trick was to hunt for an image, spread out a blanket with lunch spread out on top, and get the photo done before the three little guys finished eating and started doing laps under the legs holding the 11x14.

Worked well in this case below. The boys would have been 4 and a half, so I would have had to work fast! As a bonus, the set-up was along side an old dirt road and no other traffic, so it was the van, then a blanket with three guys eating/playing, and then my tripod with the 11x14 on top.

Two Redwoods, 2001
Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park (Cal-Barrel Road)
f64 at 30 seconds
11x14 w/ 355mm lens

Oh, you Americans, you have such great Natural State Parks (and so obedient children)!

The (automom) Flemish Region, where I live, is hardly 13,624 km² 'large' and there are 3 seaports, a lot of heavy industry and Europe's central crossroad of intensively overcrowded highways, not to mention the population of 6.692.989 (and even overcrowded childcare).
But lucky there is a lot of cultural heritage and a few too small natural parks, for which we have constantly to fight to preserve these.

A very nice photo!
 

koraks

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In general, when electronics get in contact with water, the following applies:

1: Salt water is really bad news. Fresh water is generally slightly less problematic. (Toilet water is just gross.)
2: Water in itself doesn't damage the vast majority of electronics. However, since water is conductive in practice (see #1), getting electronics wet creates short circuits, and it's those short circuits that can (and often well) damage individual components. In particular IC's (integrated circuits) are prone to damage, with passive components like resistors, capacitors and inductors being virtually immune to it - unless they are taken outside their maximum ratings due to other failures in the circuit.
Further problems are corrosion (esp. salt water) that can create permanent shorts or damage to PCB traces, switches etc. even after all the water has gone.

To optimize the chances of electronics surviving a brief swim, try to do this:
1: Retrieve immediately - obviously.
2: Remove batteries on the spot. Don't wait until you're home. Every second counts.
Then, within a few hours:
3: Take the device inside and disassemble it as far as you can.
4: Dry each part with forced air; a hairdryer works well for this. Larger puddles can be dabbed up with tissue or a cloth. Note that some components, like mechanical switches, relays and also LCD's are bound to get water in places where it's difficult or impossible to get to. If this happens, try to dry these components out as well as you can without overheating them (keep everything below the boiling point of water). In a pinch, you could place these components in an oven at low heat (e.g. 80C / 175F) and keep them there for a few hours in the hope that all water will evaporate.
4a: In case the appliance came into contact with salt or particularly dirty water, it's a good idea to dab this up as much as possible, rinse each part/component with deionized water and only then dry it up. This is to prevent residues from caking onto everything, causing permanent problems.
5: Inspect components for traces of corrosion and visible traces of short circuits or other damage. This is a long shot because most damage to the actual components won't show, but sometimes it's blatantly obvious that something has gone really wrong and then you can save yourself the time of proceeding.
6: Re-assemble, re-fit battery and turn on. Pray, and hope for the best.

I was once hiking with a friend in the early days of digital when he dropped his mini-harddrive (CF cards were tiny back then!) into a stream. I performed the procedure above and the device operated faultlessly for many years afterward.

@hiroh in your particular case, the above is worth a try. If you're hesitant to disassemble the device, try placing it in a hot (<=175F) and dry place to try and extract the water from it as quickly as possible - but it's really preferable to take it apart, because it's hard/impossible to rapidly dry out an assembled device like a spot meter.
 

Philippe-Georges

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In general, when electronics get in contact with water, the following applies:

1: Salt water is really bad news. Fresh water is generally slightly less problematic. (Toilet water is just gross.)
2: Water in itself doesn't damage the vast majority of electronics. However, since water is conductive in practice (see #1), getting electronics wet creates short circuits, and it's those short circuits that can (and often well) damage individual components. In particular IC's (integrated circuits) are prone to damage, with passive components like resistors, capacitors and inductors being virtually immune to it - unless they are taken outside their maximum ratings due to other failures in the circuit.
Further problems are corrosion (esp. salt water) that can create permanent shorts or damage to PCB traces, switches etc. even after all the water has gone.

To optimize the chances of electronics surviving a brief swim, try to do this:
1: Retrieve immediately - obviously.
2: Remove batteries on the spot. Don't wait until you're home. Every second counts.
Then, within a few hours:
3: Take the device inside and disassemble it as far as you can.
4: Dry each part with forced air; a hairdryer works well for this. Larger puddles can be dabbed up with tissue or a cloth. Note that some components, like mechanical switches, relays and also LCD's are bound to get water in places where it's difficult or impossible to get to. If this happens, try to dry these components out as well as you can without overheating them (keep everything below the boiling point of water). In a pinch, you could place these components in an oven at low heat (e.g. 80C / 175F) and keep them there for a few hours in the hope that all water will evaporate.
4a: In case the appliance came into contact with salt or particularly dirty water, it's a good idea to dab this up as much as possible, rinse each part/component with deionized water and only then dry it up. This is to prevent residues from caking onto everything, causing permanent problems.
5: Inspect components for traces of corrosion and visible traces of short circuits or other damage. This is a long shot because most damage to the actual components won't show, but sometimes it's blatantly obvious that something has gone really wrong and then you can save yourself the time of proceeding.
6: Re-assemble, re-fit battery and turn on. Pray, and hope for the best.

I was once hiking with a friend in the early days of digital when he dropped his mini-harddrive (CF cards were tiny back then!) into a stream. I performed the procedure above and the device operated faultlessly for many years afterward.

@hiroh in your particular case, the above is worth a try. If you're hesitant to disassemble the device, try placing it in a hot (<=175F) and dry place to try and extract the water from it as quickly as possible - but it's really preferable to take it apart, because it's hard/impossible to rapidly dry out an assembled device like a spot meter.

Here you have it, the perfect and a bit audacious procedure!
 

Chuck1

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It may be too late but worst case with no rice but with a car.
open the battery compartment and prop it on the dash with the windshield defrost on and prop it so the battery compartment is up so the moisture can be driven out(warm air rises).
this also works to warm up food when camping.
good luck
 

Nicholas Lindan

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Water, if it is pure, won't harm electronics. Just dry things out an everything should be OK. As Koraks noted, salt water is a whole 'nother matter. And as he noted, get that battery out of there quick.

If a device has fallen into or been heavily splashed into salt water it may be saved (emphasis on the 'may') by washing it in distilled water. Taking it apart and washing/rinsing the innards improves the chances of a cure.

If salt water has really penetrated then successive soaks in distilled water will be needed. Until you can get to distilled water keep the device submerged in the salt water - it is exposure to air that really starts the corrosion problem.
 

DREW WILEY

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I've dropped a couple of em in cold snow meltwater. Those were repaired by Quality LIght Metric, which is no longer in business, and are still working fine. The problem in that case was the fogging of the lenses, which I was unable to cure my normal method in a desiccation chamber. Now I'm extra careful to have them fully clipped onto the tripod or bag, and not just hung by the lanyard.

For a portable desiccation box, which I've used for wet lenses a few times, I take a little polyethylene Tupperware box with a tight lid and put a quantity of freshly baked-out silica gel in there, and then put the affected item in there, tape the lid extra tight, and wait a couple of weeks. But if salt water was involved, I'd rinse the item in distilled water first. Saltwater is sheer voodoo.

Taking apart the meter yourself has its risks. Richard Ritter still repairs them.
 

GregY

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"Today I dropped my beloved Pentax Digital Spot Meter in a puddle for a second, and it immediately stopped working"

...i'd suspect the impact....rather the water as the most likely culprit
 
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Chuck1

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it's not the fall,but the sudden loss of acceleration...
true dat
prices on pentax digital spot meters are now reasonable to try to put a positive spin on things
 

ic-racer

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Water, if it is pure, won't harm electronics. Just dry things out an everything should be OK. As Koraks noted, salt water is a whole 'nother matter. And as he noted, get that battery out of there quick.

If a device has fallen into or been heavily splashed into salt water it may be saved (emphasis on the 'may') by washing it in distilled water. Taking it apart and washing/rinsing the innards improves the chances of a cure.

If salt water has really penetrated then successive soaks in distilled water will be needed. Until you can get to distilled water keep the device submerged in the salt water - it is exposure to air that really starts the corrosion problem.

This is my 'fell in the water' story.
I got my big Fujinon 300/5.6 in Copal #3 from JP and the day I picked it up at his house I put it on my old Century 8x10 (didn't have the Shen-Hao yet) and went to the park.

As soon as I tipped the camera down to line up a shot, the lensboard fell off and splashed into the lake. I can report a Copal 3 emits 3 bubbles when submerged.

I raced home and disassembled both lens groups (vapor was in between the elements) and disassembled the front cover of the Copal 3. I used a blow-dryer on everything and the lens and shutter are still perfect. No long-term effects.
 
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hiroh

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Update: I left the light meter overnight in the rice, but it didn’t do anything, I guess it needs more time. But then I used hairdryer this morning and blow gently with the least warm air, and kept checking every 5-10 minutes by inserting the battery.

At one point the screen inside got blurred, but after 15 minutes of blowdrying it cleared. That was the indicator that the water is inside and something I can actually see.

After the screen cleared out, I inserted the battery and then it started showing either zero or 12, randomly. At least some progress.

After another 15-20 of drying it seems it’s working, but I doubt that it’s still 100% accurate as it used to be, because it shows 5 or 6, where IMO should be 0 or 1.

I’ll keep drying, and will leave it another night in the rice and I HOPE it will be working as before, because inaccurate meter is worse than non-working meter.
 

koraks

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The sensor element in your light meter is likely a photodiode. These are insanely high-impedance devices, which is fancy speak for 'super-sensitive stuff'. This means that any kind of moisture in the circuitry, even if it's relatively pure/fresh water, will wreak havoc on the accuracy and linearity of the meter.

Continue drying it; the first signs are promising.
 

BrianShaw

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Drying by rice (or any other humidiccant) is a protracted process. Seeing progress is good so keep ricing!
 

koraks

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Drying by rice (or any other humidicant) is a protracted process.

So much so that I wouldn't rely on it for this purpose. With only the rice method, there's ample opportunity for corrosion to happen before everything has dried out and then you really *must* open the device up for mechanical cleaning. Quicker = better.
 

BrianShaw

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So much so that I wouldn't rely on it for this purpose. With only the rice method, there's ample opportunity for corrosion to happen before everything has dried out and then you really *must* open the device up for mechanical cleaning. Quicker = better.

Totally agree... but when that's all you have in the mountains or guest house...
 
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