Waterproof Labels for Glass Bottles

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fotch

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Thanks folks. I bought all amber glass bottles because I thought it best. They're already bought and paid for. Live and learn, I guess. :smile:
The amber are traditional and also keep one from mistaking the contents for something for human consumption, except beer bottles of course.
 

BrianShaw

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The OP is not a "newbie". :confused: Other than that, I totally agree.
 

baachitraka

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I tie a stupid colored ribbon around the neck of the bottle. Green for developer, Red for stop bath and White for fixer. Yes, I reuse chems between sessions.
 

grahamp

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I label my bottles using laser printed paper stuck down with tape. This has a couple of benefits for me. I can use nice large _readable_ print (!), and I don't skimp on useful information like dilutions.

I also use a lot of white masking tape (low-tack) for temporary labels, like films through the developer, what is in a film holder, etc.
 

pentaxuser

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I was given a set of second-hand graduates that had been well used before I got them and have been well used since. They might be 20 years old and are certainly 15 years old. One has a dymo tape on it and it is still sticking rigidly. In maybe 15-20 years the white on black letters have "greyed" a little but the adherence is still fine.

That seems a solid endorsement for dymo tape

pentaxuser
 

bvy

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This is one of those threads that reminds me why I warn "newbies" not to start out with internet forums. Geez, people. Can we make analog photography any more needlessly complicated, daunting and impossible?
What's complicated? If you have a way for labeling bottles that works for you, great. If not, ask (as someone did) and share (as several people have). I'm glad I clicked on this thread. The silver sharpie on amber-colored bottles idea may not have occurred to me otherwise. Forums are about sharing ideas, and I see no need to discourage it.

In repsonse to your follow up, anyone scouring the internet for information had better have a good BS filter to begin with. Neither photography nor APUG has the exclusive rights to information overload.
 
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DREW WILEY

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I just use plain ole Sharpie permanent markers. If I want higher visibility and a rapid way to distinguish one solution from another, I use various colors of vinyl electrical tape, then write on that. Most hardware stores carry little packages with an assortment of this colored tape in them. I use the same kind of tape on filmholders, to rapidly distinguish one film from another, or color versus black and white etc.
 
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Old-N-Feeble

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Great ideas, folks. Thank you.

So far, I'm leaning toward white electrical or vinyl tape (or laser printed text on paper) with wide clear packing tape as protection. I might add color dot stickers for quick reference... the first dot for chemical type and a second dot for more specificity. For instance blue+red could be Xtol and blue+green could be Adotech II, etc. I like color-coding.:smile:
 
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Old-N-Feeble

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I didn't intend to overcomplicate things. I'm just looking for a better way to label dark bottles better that I used to. My old method was to use masking tape but that eventually became stained, worn and faded so the labels became difficult to read. Again, I happen to like color coding but will use text also.
 

MartinP

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I might add color dot stickers for quick reference... the first dot for chemical type and a second dot for more specificity. For instance blue+red could be Xtol and blue+green could be Adotech II, etc. I like color-coding.

Remember to have easily legible text labels also - if you have the safelight on and want to top up the developer tray (for example) adding fixer, because all your colours look like dark-brown, probably isn't going to make you very happy.
 

Photo Engineer

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Not to worry. Brown glass bottles are best for storing developers & bleaches, both of which are sensitive to light.

First, I must inform you that no photographic processing solution is overly sensitive to light. Dichromates and some staining developers are sensitive to UV radiation.

However, I would also like to point out that in a DARKroom it is seldom very light and rarely has any UV. Even if you store the chemistry in the kitchen or bathroom, how bright is it? How much UV?

This is the most frequently quoted non-problem. At Kodak, we used a lot of clear glass bottles for chemical storage, and with plain cork stoppers.

PE
 
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Old-N-Feeble

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Remember to have easily legible text labels also - if you have the safelight on and want to top up the developer tray (for example) adding fixer, because all your colours look like dark-brown, probably isn't going to make you very happy.

Thank you... wise advice. Please see post #38. :smile:
 

bvy

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How could one not have a way of doing this? Suppose you never heard of the silver sharpie idea. Would you be lost and give up labeling your bottles? Or is it that much better than any other way of labeling bottles? Yeesh. And colour coding is an even better idea, especially when you forget which colour is which and fix your film with XTOL after developing it with fixer.

I have a particular need for which a silver sharpie is the answer. I didn't say it would be my do-all/end-all solution for bottle labeling -- nor that I'd have been in a state of bottle labeling paralysis without it. What's wrong with sharing a good idea?
 

Animalcito

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I also use a transparent box tape, the labels are printed on normal paper. The size of the tape can easily adjusted to the specific bottle / container. If the bottles have to be used for other chemicals the labels are easily replaced and up to know very durable. Cheap, easy and practical, all what I need.
 

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Sirius Glass

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Pealable label, a sharpie and then cover with "scotch" tape. It is water proof and removable.
 

cmacd123

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I go with masking tape and a sharpie. Peel and replace with every new batch.

HOWEVER I am trying using my Brother label maker for a few to see if it lasts better. This is the one that uses the TZ cartridge. The label is printed by the machine using a thermal transfer ribbon, and then it is sealed with a clear cover. The whole label is plastic. Not a cheep solution but very legible and a choice of colour depending which cartridge you buy.
http://www.brother-usa.com/Accessories/colored-label-tape.aspx#.VMg8V2NSqYw
 

RalphLambrecht

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How are you folks labeling your glass chemical bottles? I want something waterproof and preferably stain resistant. I suppose one could etch or grind markings onto the glass but I'm looking for something easier. I do have a Dremel tool, BTW.

You can buy waterproof labels for laser printers at Staples.:smile:
 

David A. Goldfarb

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wiltw

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I have found the purchase of one of the Brother P-Touch label makers, which come up on sale at the big discount stationery stores from time to time, to be a generally extremely useful item to have around the house. You can then get plastic label stuff in various sizes and colors, including white text on clear background or black text on white background or text on color backgrounds, to suit different purposes.

Not only could you label bottles in the darkroom, but you could label many other things around the house to make them easily identifiable, like distinguishing the many AC adapter wall warts that accompany so many products these days as for the device it is intended , or the number of hours charge time for the intended item.
 
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Old-N-Feeble

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I have found the purchase of one of the Brother P-Touch label makers, which come up on sale at the big discount stationery stores from time to time, to be a generally extremely useful item to have around the house. You can then get plastic label stuff in various sizes and colors, including white text on clear background or black text on white background or text on color backgrounds, to suit different purposes.

Not only could you label bottles in the darkroom, but you could label many other things around the house to make them easily identifiable, like distinguishing the many AC adapter wall warts that accompany so many products these days as for the device it is intended , or the number of hours charge time for the intended item.

Interesting. How well do those stick to various surfaces?
 

walbergb

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First, I must inform you that no photographic processing solution is overly sensitive to light. Dichromates and some staining developers are sensitive to UV radiation.

However, I would also like to point out that in a DARKroom it is seldom very light and rarely has any UV. Even if you store the chemistry in the kitchen or bathroom, how bright is it? How much UV?

This is the most frequently quoted non-problem. At Kodak, we used a lot of clear glass bottles for chemical storage, and with plain cork stoppers.

PE

Another myth debunked. Thank you PE:smile:
 
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