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The amber are traditional and also keep one from mistaking the contents for something for human consumption, except beer bottles of course.
The amber are traditional and also keep one from mistaking the contents for something for human consumption, except beer bottles of course.Thanks folks. I bought all amber glass bottles because I thought it best. They're already bought and paid for. Live and learn, I guess.
What's complicated? If you have a way for labeling bottles that works for you, great. If not, ask (as someone did) and share (as several people have). I'm glad I clicked on this thread. The silver sharpie on amber-colored bottles idea may not have occurred to me otherwise. Forums are about sharing ideas, and I see no need to discourage it.This is one of those threads that reminds me why I warn "newbies" not to start out with internet forums. Geez, people. Can we make analog photography any more needlessly complicated, daunting and impossible?
I might add color dot stickers for quick reference... the first dot for chemical type and a second dot for more specificity. For instance blue+red could be Xtol and blue+green could be Adotech II, etc. I like color-coding.
Not to worry. Brown glass bottles are best for storing developers & bleaches, both of which are sensitive to light.
Remember to have easily legible text labels also - if you have the safelight on and want to top up the developer tray (for example) adding fixer, because all your colours look like dark-brown, probably isn't going to make you very happy.
How could one not have a way of doing this? Suppose you never heard of the silver sharpie idea. Would you be lost and give up labeling your bottles? Or is it that much better than any other way of labeling bottles? Yeesh. And colour coding is an even better idea, especially when you forget which colour is which and fix your film with XTOL after developing it with fixer.
How are you folks labeling your glass chemical bottles? I want something waterproof and preferably stain resistant. I suppose one could etch or grind markings onto the glass but I'm looking for something easier. I do have a Dremel tool, BTW.
You can buy waterproof labels for laser printers at Staples.
You can buy waterproof labels for laser printers at Staples.
I have found the purchase of one of the Brother P-Touch label makers, which come up on sale at the big discount stationery stores from time to time, to be a generally extremely useful item to have around the house. You can then get plastic label stuff in various sizes and colors, including white text on clear background or black text on white background or text on color backgrounds, to suit different purposes.
Not only could you label bottles in the darkroom, but you could label many other things around the house to make them easily identifiable, like distinguishing the many AC adapter wall warts that accompany so many products these days as for the device it is intended , or the number of hours charge time for the intended item.
You can buy waterproof labels for laser printers at Staples.
Interesting. How well do those stick to various surfaces?
First, I must inform you that no photographic processing solution is overly sensitive to light. Dichromates and some staining developers are sensitive to UV radiation.
However, I would also like to point out that in a DARKroom it is seldom very light and rarely has any UV. Even if you store the chemistry in the kitchen or bathroom, how bright is it? How much UV?
This is the most frequently quoted non-problem. At Kodak, we used a lot of clear glass bottles for chemical storage, and with plain cork stoppers.
PE
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