The concentrate is not the issue people are referring to when they say the volume is insufficient. It's the total volume of the dilute, working strength developer.
Water spotting on film edges?
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The concentrate is not the issue people are referring to when they say the volume is insufficient. It's the total volume of the dilute, working strength developer.
Got it. 900 mL in a 1 L tank should be sufficient, no? While I only develop one roll at a time, as long as I load two reels, with the roll of film on the bottom reel, I would think I would be fine.
As long as the film is submerged inside the tank, it'll work. You can verify with an open tank and just the reels and no film on them how much water it takes to submerge one resp. two reels. Keeping the second reel on top of the first one does indeed help in preventing the bottom reel from shifting around, although with my Paterson and Jobo tanks, I've never had this happen.
No, fill the tank all the way every time, except for a tiny air space at the very top.
Just my way of doing it. I use a 4 reel 120 steel tank but only put in 3 reels of film leaving the 4th reel space open. I fill until it overflows, the top 4th reel space holds additional developer that does not contact any film. When I agitate (inversions) the 3 reels slide inside the tank acting as baffles to remix the developer. Developer at the top will always be a little fresher than below everytime I agitate (remix). May not have any real affect but just my way. Regarding the OP's question there have been many responses that could be cause, I will go with the bubbles theory that were not dislodged. Why I love steel tanks, you can smack them good!
I avoid these problem by filling almost to the top or to the top and thumping the tank on a hard piece of rubber [for carving stamps] from an arts store.
Good. I use a towel folded over several times
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- Sirius Glass
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This will be the next thing I try if I don't like the results from the Simma roller.
A test roll developed with the Simma is free of defects.
And the higher contrast of the continuous agitation process is still fine for my typical subjects.
And the higher contrast of the continuous agitation process is still fine for my typical subjects.
MattKing
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If you decide to reduce the contrast, just reduce the development time or temperature.
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Pre wash or no pre wash ?
to prewash or not; that seems to be the question. I don't do anything unless I need to. Thats the way...
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Will do. At the moment the contrast you see in the above pics is mostly added in post.
Edit: What am I doing talking about it when I can share data. See below.
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FWIW :
Pre wash or no pre wash ?
to prewash or not; that seems to be the question. I don't do anything unless I need to. Thats the way...
I thought about this long and hard, but my go-to films are FP4, HP5, and Acros, and Ilford advises against prewashing, so I have decided against it.
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