Wanting to get into large format, am I crazy?

[removed account4]

hey squidward

yup, crazy.
have fun at the asylum, the view is nice

john

ps. speed graphics are not too expensive, and because they have a focal plane
shutter you can stick inexpensive barrel lenses on them ... and their resale is pretty good
if you decide you want or need something else ... good luck!

 

[Dag]

Then I'm crazy too. After many years with Bronica SQ-A I've sent a Polaroid 110B to Australia to be converted into a Razzle45...

 

[Fotoguy20d]

I must be crazy too. In quick succession I've gone from a Yashica-D to a Century Graphic 2x3 to a Speed Graphic 4x5 and now I'm looking for a Graphic View. And, I've yet to use the 4x5 Graphic, but, the negatives from the 2x3 are so gorgeous I can't wait to see what a negative almost 4x larger will be capable of.

 

[Steve Smith]

If you really want to build a camera, at your level of experience, I would recommend against scratch building. I would recommend building a kit camera, like a Bender, or a Bulldog.

Whilst this is good advice, it's the sort of good advice which I usually ignore! (sorry).

As an example: the first time I built an acoustic guitar, all the advice I was given was 'you should build a simple nylon strung Spanish style guitar for your first instrument'. However, I didn't want a nylon strung Spanish guitar, I wanted a Selmer Maccaferri style guitar so that is what I built.

I would say that if your woodwork and mechanical skills are good then try to build whatever you (think) you want. If however you will be learning construction at the same time then the kit option is good advice.


Steve.

 

[Eric Mac]

Resist the power of the Darkslide

I also took the plunge a couple years ago and built my first LF camera. I ended up buying a folding 4x5 and 8x10 camera anyways. However the journey to the darkslide is a fun and challenging one. I just finished a 4x10 back for my Zone VI camera and looking toward building a 7x17 this year. The Sherline mill that just arrived is in need of more tooling, so that is my next project. Then on to the 7x17.

I'm sure you found a bunch of sites on camera building to whet your appetite. My only advice is to find an grafloc back for your first camera, but being a machinist type you shouldn't have any problems holding the tolerances required. Making your own bellows isn't as intimidating as it may seem.

Good luck and good light.

Eric

 

[Chan Tran]

A bit adventurous but not crazy. First going into large format makes a lot of sense, since nowaday we, film users, need large format to beat digital resolution. Also the view/field camera is the easiest type of camera to build.

 

[Squidward]

Thanks for the replies, folks.

I have some definite ideas about how to put a field camera together and have come up with ideas both in my head and on paper for different areas of the camera. It's probably not going to have any wood on this camera at all but that may change.

Here's a picture of the Ektar lens. I'm wondering if it is unique or not since every picture of a 127mm f4.7 Ektar shows it as having either a white or a silver finish.

 

[Fotoguy20d]

I've seen some on ebay in black. ER puts the lens in 1945 so it might have been a wartime thing (to keep reflections down), but I have ER3544 in a Graphex shutter with chrome. Here's one vintage 1944

 

[Squidward]

Thanks for the info.

Would anyone happen to know what the number 5 is for? I'm guessing it's a flash sync thing but I'm not sure. As you can see in the photo it was modified so that a PC cord can be connected to the shutter and the '5' is right next to this. That number thing is not moveable, BTW.

 

[John Kasaian]

Here's a picture of the Ektar lens. I'm wondering if it is unique or not since every picture of a 127mm f4.7 Ektar shows it as having either a white or a silver finish.

I've got one just like it. Mine's an uncoated wartime production example. I can't make out the serial # on your lens to determine the date of manufacture but I'd bet it is early to mid forties. It's a very good performer within the limits of it's IC.

 

[Fotoguy20d]

Thanks for the info.

Would anyone happen to know what the number 5 is for? I'm guessing it's a flash sync thing but I'm not sure. As you can see in the photo it was modified so that a PC cord can be connected to the shutter and the '5' is right next to this. That number thing is not moveable, BTW.

On the flash synchromatics I have on my 101mm Ektars, you can very slightly loosen up the screw (above the 5 in your picture), and it should slide down to reveal something else above it. On mine, it's either the letter M or F, depending on the type of sync it can do. I have no idea what the 5 means.

Dan

PS Kodak used a code to date their lenses. It goes as follows:
C A M E R O S I T Y
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 0

 

[Maretzo]

I started shooting 4 x 5 one year ago with a wooden view camera. Since, I gave my Nikon D200 to the local museum..