Very odd Yashicaflex!

[Cromlech]

See toro_mike's post above.

Got it back to S - but the switc moves down, not up on mine.

Thank you!

 

[toro_mike]

Got it back to S - but the switc moves down, not up on mine.

Thank you!

No problem... Glad you figured it out
My memory seems to be going every day!

Mike

 

[Cromlech]

No problem... Glad you figured it out
My memory seems to be going every day!

Mike

Hey, it got the job done! No worries, and thank you!

Any advice for shooting 6x6?
and more importantly, how to clean the ground glass!

 

[pauls52]

The camera is a Yashicaflex-AII (the plain "A" had a red window). Film winding on these is as described by jp498 for the Yashica-C (and also Yashica-D and 635), EXCEPT that the first versions with film counter and auto-stop winding had a film counter reset button (later automatic) behind the focus knob (slide backward to reset). The aperture and shutter controls etc are similar to the Yashica-A. This site has lots of Yashica manuals http://www.butkus.org/chinon/index.html but unfortunately none exactly like yours. However, from the earliest to the latest, they are basically very similar with the main differences being shutters and lenses, crank wind or knob, Bay 1 filter mounts on premium models and plain on the first (up to 1954) and subsequent budget models and meters (first in 1954) or none. I have some historical stuff at http://www.tlr-cameras.com/Japanese/Paul_Sokk_Yashica_6x6_History.htm which hangs off the more well known Barry Toogood's www.tlr-cameras.com. The Yashicaflex stuff is a bit thin and hints at some issues with identifying some models but I am waiting on Barry to load an updated page which covers the Yashicaflexes in much more detail and accuracy. By the way, there are at least 9 Yashicaflex models.

 

[Cromlech]

Thank you Paul.

Richard

 

[pauls52]

I stumbled onto the first page of this thread in search of something else and in my exitement didn't realise that many of your questions had already been answered correctly. Apolgies to those contributers - I'm not trying to steal your thunder.

 

[Cromlech]

I stumbled onto the first page of this thread in search of something else and in my exitement didn't realise that many of your questions had already been answered correctly. Apolgies to those contributers - I'm not trying to steal your thunder.

Nothing wrong with that- do you have advice for cleaning the ground glass and lenses?

I assume lens tissue and 80cc cleaner is OK?

 

[toro_mike]

Any gentle cleaner will work on the ground glass. On my Speed Graphic, I soaked it in warm soapy water, then carefully wiped it down with a microfiber cloth. Worked well, but I'm not sure you will be able to get the ground glass out of the Yashica (I certainly haven't tried on mine), but the same theory should apply. Just use a blast of air (that doesn't spit goo out - I use my Rocket Blower for this type of work) to get any gritty junk off, then carefully clean both the ground glass and the lense with lens cleaner. I'm not familiar with 80cc, but if it is purposed as lens cleaner, then go for it. Just be careful (clean, lint free cloth and cleaner meant for lenses).

Mike

 

[Cromlech]

Any gentle cleaner will work on the ground glass. On my Speed Graphic, I soaked it in warm soapy water, then carefully wiped it down with a microfiber cloth. Worked well, but I'm not sure you will be able to get the ground glass out of the Yashica (I certainly haven't tried on mine), but the same theory should apply. Just use a blast of air (that doesn't spit goo out - I use my Rocket Blower for this type of work) to get any gritty junk off, then carefully clean both the ground glass and the lense with lens cleaner. I'm not familiar with 80cc, but if it is purposed as lens cleaner, then go for it. Just be careful (clean, lint free cloth and cleaner meant for lenses).

Mike

Yes, the 80cc came with a lens cleaning kit. Thank you!

 

[pauls52]

Sounds like good advice regarding cleaning. I'm no techie and have never had one of these apart so the following is just hypothetical. Quite often, the mirrors get covered in dust and grime. If I remember correctly, there is a foam seal that disintegrates over time. It wouldn't be difficult to cut a new one but there are ones on eBay for later models. Apart from the screen itself (grid layout and whether fresnel lens or not), I can't see any real difference between my Yashicaflex-S and Yashica Mat-LM. As for cleaning the mirror, DO NOT, unless you know what you are doing and have done the research. My understanding is that the silvered side is on top and it is extremely delicate. Also, check the taking lens for fungus by looking through from inside at a bright light. From my experience, the rear element is susceptible. The three element lenses are easy to dismantle and there is a fair chance of successful fungus removal (the 4 element Lumaxars and Yashinons can get fungus in the cement of the rear element group and that is usually terminal).

Paul

Paul

 

[Rick A]

You will need a "Leica nipple" cable release adapter, its the same as the early Nikons used. I will post a pic for you in a few minutes.

This unit screws over the shutter release button. You have to remove a knurled retaining ring first. Care must be taken not to push the release button in while the ring is off, so as not to dislodge the button(old age may have loosened it). You can then screw the cable release into the adapter.

 

[pauls52]

You will need a "Leica nipple" cable release adapter, its the same as the early Nikons used. I will post a pic for you in a few minutes.

There were a number of Yashicaflex-A variants including the AII. All of the earlier ones, like this one, had the cable release built in where the shutter release normally is (think of basic leaf shutters on folders and view cameras) with the actual shutter button/lever in the middle under the lens. Later series A cameras had conventional button releases (requiring the Leica nipple) like all previous Pigeonflex, Yashimaflex and Yashicaflex models and all subsequent models until the Yashica-24.

Paul

 

[JPD]

They borrowed ideas from both the Rolleicord II and III for this camera. The shutter lever, cable release thread and the frame counter system with the reset knob is copied from the Rolleicord II, but the start mark in the film chamber is copied from Rolleicord III.

 

[grahamp]

Looking at the pictures a few posts back, I see that it has the usual red triangle start of film marker. You wind up the backing paper until the side to side double arrow on the paper lines up with the red index marks. Then close the back and advance the film to frame 1 (from S). It will be 120 only, but that is not a major problem these days 8-(

It does not have the chrome of my later Yashicamat, but it looks to be a good example with a nice functional styling.

 

[hpulley]

Just got a Yashicaflex A (though it just says Yashicaflex).

Anyone know why the accessory shoes all have the 'pin' at the back? On later shoes and modern ones the pin is at the front and you push the flash or whatever in from the back and the pin prevents it from going too far but it seems the accessories went in from the front on these early Yashicas. Seems odd and not very useful with modern accessories.

 

[Q.G.]

[...] on these early Yashicas. Seems odd and not very useful with modern accessories.

You may have your answer right there.

In the period your ancient Yashica is from, modern accessories had yet to be invented.