Hi all,
Title basically says it all. I've been noticing increased mineral deposits/water spots on my negatives lately and I'm going to try developing with only distilled water this weekend to see if I can cure it. I was wondering if, when using distilled water, I should still use a wetting agent for the final wash? Or does that add another variable which can introduce inconsistencies with the negative, and mean I would be better off with just the distilled water?
Thanks
D
Thanks guys.
I've been using this wetting agent: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/73870-REG/Edwal_EDLFN4_LFN_Wetting_Agent_Liquid.html at suggested concentrations (2 drops/pint water) in the final wash and my results have still been horrendous lately (seems like they're worse than they used to be, maybe I'm just noticing more). I'll try distilled water + wetting agent in the final wash this weekend and see how it goes.
FYI, all PhotoFlo is not the same. It comes in different concentrations -- at least it used to.
Thanks guys.
I've been using this wetting agent: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/73870-REG/Edwal_EDLFN4_LFN_Wetting_Agent_Liquid.html at suggested concentrations (2 drops/pint water) in the final wash and my results have still been horrendous lately (seems like they're worse than they used to be, maybe I'm just noticing more). I'll try distilled water + wetting agent in the final wash this weekend and see how it goes.
I've been using LFN since the 70's. I mix two drop wetting agent, two ounces 91% isopropyl alcohol plus enough distilled water to make one liter. I soak my negatives a minimum of one minute in the solution before hanging to dry. With roll film, I shake off as much liquid as possible before unspooling to hang. I haven't had water spot issues since I gave up on Photoflo.
Photoflo 200 is what is sold today. Photoflo 600 was sold to big labs, I don't think this has been sold for years. I follow @MattKing process of diluting the Photoflo 200 with isopropyl alcohol, makes dosing easier so I don't overuse.
I guess that's why my bottle of PhotoFlo 600 is still going strong. Like lots of my other liquid chemicals, I use plastic syringes (1ml up to 50ml) to measure exact small amounts.
Hi all,
Title basically says it all. I've been noticing increased mineral deposits/water spots on my negatives lately and I'm going to try developing with only distilled water this weekend to see if I can cure it. I was wondering if, when using distilled water, I should still use a wetting agent for the final wash? Or does that add another variable which can introduce inconsistencies with the negative, and mean I would be better off with just the distilled water?
Thanks
D
not sure what you are expeting from a switch to distilledwater. it will give you a more predictable development.tsp water can vary in pH;distilledwater does not.distilled water also cutsdown on water deposits,so, you should see less drying marks if you follow the final wash with a bath in distilled and then, you won't need an additional wetting agent but just a drop of wetting agent even in the final bath of distilledwater won't hurt and will make it easier for thewater to run off the film prior to drying. If you wash your film in your development ank make sure to was that properly or wetting agent residue may accumulate on the spiral and make future film feeding more difficult.
I think they might have made a 1200 to 1 dilution. Probably for the CIA
A 16 oz bottle of Kodak Photo Flo will last most people the rest of their life. Has for me anyway. 1 or 2 drops is all it takes. Yes I'm still alive or else i wouldn't be writing this. but the bottle i bought in the 80's is still half full. The question is whether the plastic bottle itself will all apart before its empty, or will I? At 68, it looks like I will first, at this rate. The big question is, did Kodak simple re-bottle Joy or Ajax dishwashing liquid and put their yellow label on it?
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