Use your Fuji GW690 as Pano Camera?

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

Has anybody else tried putting 35mm in their Fuji 6x9's to use as a pano camera? I was really happy with the ease of the process and the results. The only trick is (which is also the fun/challenge) is finding compositions that don't just look like oddly cropped pictures. I think the 90mm lens also contributed to this, I found myself seeing a composition, then looking through the rangefinder and stepping back another 20 feet then shooting. I pulled the trigger on a GSW690 65mm to convert that to my full time pano camera. A lot cheaper than a 6x17 back for my 4x5, though I'd love to have one, I like the super long compositions this method gives you.

Well, just thought I'd share and see if anyone else has gotten good results...the link attached is where I found some helpful troubleshooting for doing this hack if anybody is interested.

https://emulsive.org/articles/how-t...ormat-35mm-film-in-the-fuji-gw690-rangefinder

NGT

 

[Ariston]

I have done it. I think many have. I have also done it in my RB, which allows for other (wider) lenses, and allows me to start shooting whenever I want via the double exposure lever. On the Fuji, unless you get your paper just right, you may waste some film at the beginning of the roll.

It's really fun with Fuji Superia on a colorful subject and leaving the sprocket holes in the scan.

 

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

I have done it. I think many have. I have also done it in my RB, which allows for other (wider) lenses, and allows me to start shooting whenever I want via the double exposure lever. On the Fuji, unless you get your paper just right, you may waste some film at the beginning of the roll.

It's really fun with Fuji Superia on a colorful subject and leaving the sprocket holes in the scan.

Yeah, naturally and interchangeable lens set up would offer more lens options but personally don't love mirror based cameras, though interchangeable backs and the like are enticing.
I didn't use any paper, unless I were to get some scratches from the pressure plate I'm not sure what advantage would be, I don't think it would save any film. I use as much as possible by scotch taping to the taking spool, half a wind to get it taught then close and wind until the counter is set. I still get 11-12 shots, more than the 8 I get at 6x9 and honestly rarely load anything into my 35mm cameras.

Sprockets can definitely be a nice touch for certain subject matter.

 

[Ariston]

You didn't have any unused film when you developed it? Or did you send it to a lab? All that winding you did to get to the first shot was winding past film, wasn't it? That's why I tape on a paper leader (not paper to the back of the film)...

 

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

You didn't have any unused film when you developed it? Or did you send it to a lab? All that winding you did to get to the first shot was winding past film, wasn't it? That's why I tape on a paper leader (not paper to the back of the film)...

Oh gotcha, no I didn't use a leader but that's a good idea. The first time I tried this was while backpacking so everything was done for the first time, in changing bags without being able to see results from the previous roll. Yeah it looked like I could have squeezed another 3 shots maybe 4 after developing, I've still got the trimmings still, so I'll probably just try using the wasted front end as my lead so I know it's the right length.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I'll probably just try using the wasted front end as my lead so I know it's the right length.

Oh, that's brilliant! I've been working toward making this a field-reloadable setup for my RB67 -- and I've gone so far as to source a length of cine leader to splice onto the film. I can take the measurements off the 120 backing paper, but your way is WAY simpler in terms of getting "just right" amount of leader.

The one I've gotten processed so far gave me ten exposures on a 24-exposure roll; I figure I lost at least two (double wide) to loading and advancing to "frame 1" on the 220 back I used. I'll be processing my own for the next roll (already loaded), so I'll be able to measure how much is fogged and how much after that left blank -- and that will be my leader length. I'm also trying to solve how to put a leader stock tail on commercially loaded film. Loading a leader and transporting cassette to cassette (using 120-to-135 adapters on both ends) is part of the field-reload solution -- but not fogging my last frame or two when I come to the end and unload is the rest of it. Either that, or I need to come up with a way to modify an RB67 220 back to allow rewinding 35mm film...

 

[Ariston]

That is a good idea. I've never wound film onto a spool, though. Does it "bite" as well as paper, or do you have a way to keep it from slipping out when you wind?

 

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

Oh, that's brilliant! I've been working toward making this a field-reloadable setup for my RB67 -- and I've gone so far as to source a length of cine leader to splice onto the film. I can take the measurements off the 120 backing paper, but your way is WAY simpler in terms of getting "just right" amount of leader.

The one I've gotten processed so far gave me ten exposures on a 24-exposure roll; I figure I lost at least two (double wide) to loading and advancing to "frame 1" on the 220 back I used. I'll be processing my own for the next roll (already loaded), so I'll be able to measure how much is fogged and how much after that left blank -- and that will be my leader length. I'm also trying to solve how to put a leader stock tail on commercially loaded film. Loading a leader and transporting cassette to cassette (using 120-to-135 adapters on both ends) is part of the field-reload solution -- but not fogging my last frame or two when I come to the end and unload is the rest of it. Either that, or I need to come up with a way to modify an RB67 220 back to allow rewinding 35mm film...

I haven't done the math but 10 wide from a 24 roll seems pretty good for 6x7, you could probably squeeze a couple more from proper lead (obviously I'm still working on it too).

What do you mean by "I'm also trying to solve how to put a leader stock tail on commercially loaded film" Do you want the 35 mm film to break tension at the end and wind itself like 120 does so you can just open the camera and not worry about any overexposed frames?

I've just been using a changing bag in the field to rewind once I get tension winding to the next frame, not using an empty cassette for retake.

 

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

That is a good idea. I've never wound film onto a spool, though. Does it "bite" as well as paper, or do you have a way to keep it from slipping out when you wind?

I'm not sure how the RB winds inside but on the Fuji you need to put some tape to add thickness to the winding spool so that the frame counter recognizes that film is being forwarded. The film without paper doesn't have enough bit to advance the counter.

 

[mshchem]

I'm in the that's cool, but. I've got a Fuji 65 and 90 mm camera. I just crop the 120 film as required. I have a old 1st generation Fuji G617 105mm , I can crop that as well.

Still, it's undeniably cool, especially put 24x80mm Ektachrome on the light table!!
I agree skip the $300 adapter. Just do what you have spelled out.
I want to see contact prints, you could frame those little guys.

 

[Ariston]

I'm not sure how the RB winds inside but on the Fuji you need to put some tape to add thickness to the winding spool so that the frame counter recognizes that film is being forwarded. The film without paper doesn't have enough bit to advance the counter.

I was talking about the take-up spool being able to hold onto the first part of the film without it popping out. Paper bends in and under itself easily enough to get started.

I have a Fuji GW690 I've done this on, too. I actually put a piece of electrical tape around the little bar right before the take-up spool because mine was having difficulty registering even regular 120 film. I think that little bar is what measures the advancement, but I can't be sure. I just know mine works great how.

 

[Nathan Graves Tuttle]

I was talking about the take-up spool being able to hold onto the first part of the film without it popping out. Paper bends in and under itself easily enough to get started.

I have a Fuji GW690 I've done this on, too. I actually put a piece of electrical tape around the little bar right before the take-up spool because mine was having difficulty registering even regular 120 film. I think that little bar is what measures the advancement, but I can't be sure. I just know mine works great how.

Yes I have done the same with that bar before the take-up spool, and I use scotch tape to attach the start of the film to the spool so it stays in place and winds without moving.

 

[Donald Qualls]

I haven't done the math but 10 wide from a 24 roll seems pretty good for 6x7, you could probably squeeze a couple more from proper lead (obviously I'm still working on it too).

What do you mean by "I'm also trying to solve how to put a leader stock tail on commercially loaded film" Do you want the 35 mm film to break tension at the end and wind itself like 120 does so you can just open the camera and not worry about any overexposed frames?

I've just been using a changing bag in the field to rewind once I get tension winding to the next frame, not using an empty cassette for retake.

My frames are 70mm wide, with some space between, so I should get approximately twelve on a 36 exposure roll or 18-19 on a 36 exposure, except for wasting more than a foot for loading.

Not letting the 35mm wind off the factory spool, though that would work too (but wouldn't be so good for conventional 35mm cameras); I'm talking about splicing a few inches of leader at the end of the film, so the film with images can be fully protected in a take-up cassette before the back locks due to end of film. Pretty sure I'd have to transfer all the film to an empty cassette to be able to cut and splice the tail end of the factory roll in the light -- and that's a PITA since the transfer has to be done in the dark. Still reasonable to do, and that end only needs 3-4 inches, vs. 14 or more for the leader (which, as others have pointed out, could be paper).

An RB67 back counts frames with a friction driven roller on the supply end of the insert. The one in a 220 drives only on one end (the one near the counter), and 35mm film doesn't touch that one. I wrap a turn or so of electrical tape around the roller to bond the drive wheel to the rest of the roller so the film can drive the counter. Seems to be plenty of friction (this is driving on the base side of the film, wapped around about 135 degrees, not emulsion side just laid over the roller like the in Texas Leica).