mweintraub
Subscriber
Since the front standard won't go down any farther, one could center the lens to the film this way.The image area is shifted downward a fair bit and slightly to one side relative to the center of a 4x5 sheet;
Or could one flip the back around the other way and use front rise?
Is this the best way to use it on the FA?To be clear, if you rotate the camera back 180 degrees the instant film holder can be attached with effective rise rather than fall *and* the focus spacer will have the correct orientation when inserted.
At this point I don't know that I'm going to start with the 45FA for my own initial tinkering with this holder. Right now I'm leaning toward going with my Sinar F2 configured with short rail and bag bellows. As with pretty much any monorail, the F2 movements will make it trivial to set up the camera so the front and rear standards are aligned to center the exposure gate relative to the lens, and then I can adjust from there as needed. But we'll see. I should be able to do some tinkering this coming weekend, will report back.
Nice!I plan to use mine (when it arrives -- likely next year at this point, I didn't order until April) on my Speed with a mask in the viewfinder (calibrated RF, so I can adjust the infinity stops and go) and on my Graphic View II -- which, like the Sinar F2, has plenty of movements to correct perspective for the off-center image area.
This may be too early to ask, but does anyone know how many stops of range you'll get out of Instax color or B&W? Is it going to be in the ~5 stop range of E6 film?
I haven't shot any transparency film in many years. However, you can compare the characteristic curves - look at the horizontal (log exposure) axis. The brightness range that Instax can record is very short.
https://www.fujifilm.com/products/instant_photo/pdf/instax_datasheet.pdf
https://imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites/default/files/files/products/e4000_ektachrome_100.pdf
Thanks. I didn't realize Fuji had a full datasheet for instax. I'm not particularly good at reading these things, but It looks to have a similar range as transparency but shifted so it hits its minimum density at exposure -1.5, where E110 and Provia hit minimum at 0 lux seconds (I'm not sure what the x axis actually denotes, but being positive file, more exposure should equal less density, so I'm assuming the left side is less exposure and the right is more, but log h lux seconds? I don't actually know what that means. I guess I'll have to spend a few hours this evening reading up on it.)
@Glem C
The manual QR link sends you to downloads.lomography.com, from which you can find the lomograflok manual (I'd paste in a direct link but it doesn't allow me to post due to anti-spam measures, probably on account of my very low post count).
Fantastic information. This is why I read this forum. I recall using the peel-apart Polaroid back on my 35mm camera that had very poor focus but later discovered the door did not press the film pack up tightly to the frame, so I had to make sure I pressed the film pack all the way forward before closing the back. That fixed the problem....just in time for Fuji to stop production of the filmI received mine on Monday. However, it seems like the focus on my unit is a ways off of the ~19.4mm given in the manual and accounted for by the spacer. My initial photos were blurry at my focused point but sharp in areas closer to the lens. I've been a bit busy this week so I still have some more tests to run, but at the moment it seems like my film plane is around 22mm behind the usual (plus or minus ~1mm; those pending tests will get me a more accurate number).
Has anyone else been experiencing something similar, or is the spacer providing accurate focus?
I will note that my film packs were 2 or 3 years old; I have some new film coming in today so I'll see if there's any difference there. However, I did cut apart my first film pack and placed a roughened microscope slide across the "film rails" in the pack to try and provide a more correct groundglass to compare the distances. With that setup I measured a 21mm offset, though that seems slightly too short to be the actual film plane distance when I tested with real film (probably due to the image layer being separated from the "film rails" by the thickness of the rear cover sheet). That points to my problem being with the Lomograflok itself.
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