This is the best colors out of my negatives that I have seen. How did you get to this result?
As I said so many times my lab developed films scan just perfect. So it’s not the scanning or my digital processing. I try not to do anything digital processing other than negafix standard.Hmm, before troubleshooting any color development issues (real or imagined) I'd recommend getting a crash course in digital color correction and doing lots of practice. It seems to me you're a bit disoriented in these matters.
It seems to me that Radost is expecting his film to scan and give exactly the same results as lab scanned film without any change to his scanning settings.
I don't think that happens even if you compare the results from two within spec commercial labs.
The color checker scan you posted does not exhibit purply shadows or a red cast.
I've tried to help you in a few ways, but apparently I can't. So that others might have a go at this, if they have the time and patience: what would you ideally get from this thread?
Thanks - I've corrected my original post to what I meant to type - lab developed film.Not lab scan. Scan at home from lab development. I don’t lab scan. I scan at home.
I don’t see a reason for home developing to be that much deferent from lab developing. As long as everything is done correctly they should be very close.Thanks - I've corrected my original post to what I meant to type - lab developed film.
That makes sense. Is Fuji more reddish?We are not talking about fixing.
We are talking about more than one normal.
The same adjustments that one would make if they switched from a Kodak film to a Fuji film - as one example.
For clarity, I should probably have said "the same sort of adjustments".That makes sense. Is Fuji more reddish?
Because it's a step towards helping you. If you read my suggestions of side by side comparisons, you'll see they're intended to try and track down your problem.People keep repeating the same ideas.
Better shoot slides. What you seem to experience as heavy processing is in fact the normal range of color corrections (if we're looking at that color checker chart scan you posted) you'd expect to make on scanned C41 negatives.I am not interested in heavy post processing of my negatives.
Which means my development and not the scanning differs.Because it's a step towards helping you. If you read my suggestions of side by side comparisons, you'll see they're intended to try and track down your problem.
If you want to solve this, it's you who will have to do the work. Get it?
Better shoot slides. What you seem to experience as heavy processing is in fact the normal range of color corrections (if we're looking at that color checker chart scan you posted) you'd expect to make on scanned C41 negatives.
The fact that you have fewer adjustments to make with lab developed negatives is because the in-built (VERY HEAVY!!!) corrections in your scanning software etc work out well for those negatives.
Those won't help here because OP is not capable of creating a digital or physical positive from his negatives that accurately shows the possible problems he thinks he's seeing. I've been trying to get him to that point for days, but he just doesn't get it. I was thinking along the same lines as you but it's impossible to get even to base 1 with him.Fuji and Kodak have documents to help you solve any processing error.
Ok, one last attempt from my end to help you @Radost. I won't talk about scanning or anything for a bit.
You mentioned you use Fuji Hunt chemistry, and said something about opening it last summer and you also dropped the product name 'Negafix' above (which is not developer; Fuji does market 'Negacolor' developer). All this raises a number of questions about your developer (not bleach, not fix!!):
* What is the exact name of your C41 developer and the Fuji product number?
* When did you open the bottle(s)?
* When did you mix the working solution of the developer? How much (how many liters, gallons etc.) did you mix? If you are keeping unmixed concentrates, how are you storing them?
* If you are using developer that requires a starter (i.e. all minilab chemistry, but usually not consumer-oriented small volume chemistry kits like the 1 liter and 5 liter kits), have you added it when making the working strength developer?
* How have you stored the developer since mixing it (what kind of bottles, for how long etc.) and for how long have you stored it?
* How many films do you develop before discarding the developer? I.e. how many films per liter of solution in a single sessions, and how many sessions?
* If you re-use developer, are you replenishing it? If so, at what rate? Are you using replenisher or working strength developer for replenishment?
* If you still have fresh, unused, working strength developer in storage, what color is it?
For best results, do the following:
* Store mixed, working strength developer in entirely full, glass (or PET, but not LDPE or HDPE) bottles with a tightly fitting cap.
* Use developer only once ('one shot'), or if you re-use it, use the manufacturer's replenishment rate for your particular developer and replenisher (not just any Fuji C41 developer...) and adjust the rate if you find your negatives are sub-par. Note that replenishment rates are always aimed at lab use with a far higher chemistry turnaround than you'll ever get at home and hence, Fuji's rates will be on the low side and probably much too low for your use. In other words: replenishment is a gamble.
* Don't even think about reusing the same developer several times without replenishment if you care in the least how your negatives turn out. Contrary to what you may believe, C41 developer is NOT intended to work if used as-is in several consecutive developing sessions.
* Opened bottles of developer concentrate, particularly the one that contains the CD4 component, do not store well once opened. In practice it is better to mix all of it into working strength developer or replenisher and store it as outlined above. This way you can easily get >6 months (very conservative estimate) of use from your developer. The CD4-containing component is usually the smallest concentrate bottle out of the 3 or 4 developer concentrates that come in the package (or the second-smallest in consumer-grade Fuji Hunt kits that come with a starter).
If you accurately answer the questions above, it is possible to a limited extent to say something about potential problems in your development process.
A better approach would be based on comparative analysis of home- vs lab-developed negatives, but given your responses up to now I have to conclude you're not capable of doing this, so we have to try a plan B.
Sincerely, where does one look for such information?? I am a total noob when it comes to digital color correction of negative scans. I can go down to my darkroom and make good color prints, no problem. When I saw the OP's reddish images I thought add more magenta and yellow to the filter packHmm, before troubleshooting any color development issues (real or imagined) I'd recommend getting a crash course in digital color correction and doing lots of practice. It seems to me you're a bit disoriented in these matters.
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