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While I agree with most of what has been said, I have to disagree with the use of the term "arbitrary" when it comes to ISO film speed. In fact the current method, which dates back to the forties, is the first method that doesn't determine speed based on an almost entirely arbitrary property of the characteristic curve.
....snip....I now understand better what Vestal said in the Craft of Photography, and Fred Picker said in his writings, and I read them likely 20 years ago.
I believe what they meant to say is "the speed of a photographic material is not a fundamental concept, but provides an index number useful for calculating camera settings" (from Todd and Zakia, A review of Speed Materials.)
It's time to give up the book writing!
What if the film manufacturers printed on the box: [Film Speed = Your Personal EI]. Wouldn't that be something? It would require each purchaser to test the film to determine the exposure that is satisfactory to the individual. But then in no time someone would say "what do you use it at" and most will follow. Some will adjust it and say everyone is wrong. At that point the discussion will heat up and the nuances of technique will arise.
Then all the time would be spent testing the films and not time would be spent on photography.
EI is just a personal re-rating 'notation' of the film from it's formal speed to another e.g. 50 to EI40+ or 50 to EI64 .
I give it no other importance other than to notate re-rating of the film to suit circumstances and wouldn't lose sleep over it.
As I look through the Gallery and see the the film used and the ISO rating I see that many time people shot film at rating different than the box speed.
Can some one explain the basic reasons that this technique is used? If you rate a film slower, say a 100 ISO box, shot at 80 what is the reason? Is it more tone, more contrast????
Lots of users will state unequivocally that a certain films ISO rating is full of cr*p, but really there are too many variables to have any hard and fast rule, a few of them are:
The camera shutter can be a little off.
The lens aperture can be a little off.
The meter can be a little off.
They use a different developer.
They mix the developer differently
Their thermometer may be a little off.
They may use a different agitation method then standard.
Their enlarger, paper, paper developer, paper agitation can all be different.
Best thing to do, is start with a film at ISO, if you don't find the results acceptable, then try 1/3 to 1/2 stop more or less exposure, see if that is better for you, if it's better, but you still do not like it, then try a little more, until you find a speed that works for you.
I'll bet anything, you will like the prints from the 'overexposed' frames much better than the box speed frames.At lease as far as the shadow detail is concerned-------expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights------it's an unavoidable part of these type discussions, IMO, and benefits the novices that are tuning in. Hopefully, there are a lot of them!
...Take Ralph’s comment, “Also, in my experience, when proper custom film tests are conducted, the film speed is typically rated to be 1/3 to 2/3 slower than the box speed. This happens so often, it cannot be a coincident.” It isn’t a coincident, but not for the reason he implies, but first ask yourself if everyone’s shutter speeds and f/stops and all are so individual, why would the testing results be so consistent? And that includes all the experimental errors that are associated with such testing. The real reason why the “custom” test results generally come up with slower speeds is because it is a different testing method than the ISO method. Whether you want to consider the method wrong or not is subject to debate, but the method is different never-the-less and the results produced will be different. I am, of course, referring to any Zone System type test...
...Oh, the ISO speed does not represent the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail...
But it does. I'm talking about Zone-I shadow detail with a density of 0.1 above base+fog (see ISO standard attached). I believe my statement was correct.
It's just the speed point.
Right, 0.1 log E units above fb+f is the "practical" determination of film speed. Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax------what we call Zone I, there is no shadow detail in a Zone I exposure, only enough useful density on the negative for the paper to print a Zone I print value. Negative density outside the response capability of the paper's emulsion seems useless to me.
What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?
Jones found the minimum useful point was further down - 0.29 log units to be exact
If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.
Yes, I know, but that is not the minimum exposure required to capture shadow detail like you suggested. It's just the speed point...
Measuring B+Fog can lead you astray due to the fact that different films have different toe curve shapes. If the toe is soft, a lot of detail can be lost due to this curvature...
CPorter -
Right, 0.1 log E units above fb+f is the "practical" determination of film speed. Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax------what we call Zone I, there is no shadow detail in a Zone I exposure, only enough useful density on the negative for the paper to print a Zone I print value. Negative density outside the response capability of the paper's emulsion seems useless to me.
What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?
If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.
CPorter - Why, because, IMO, it is within the response of the paper's emulsion to be able to produce a tone just perceptibly lighter than Dmax.
CPorter - What matters is what can be printed with todays papers. Who cares about any measurable density below fb+f density. What value is it to anybody with a film camera in their hands?
If by "useful" you mean that a -0.29 log E unit can be printed on paper, well I guess I would have to see it to believe it. I can't get any thing on paper below fb+f, paper that I buy anyway.
P.E. - In other words, all zones must be on a straight line portion of the H&D curve that does not include bows upwards or downwards, nor should it contain any portion of the toe or shoulder. This is the way to measure a negative film and how to get the best photos.
Ralph - below Zone I or 0.1, negative density is too low to print, and consequently, cannot be called 'useful' in my opinion.
The first thing one needs to understand is that the ISO speed is the actual speed of the film.
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