Try it. The experiment will only take 2.48 minutes.
So let me see if I understand this right. when I use my Minolta IIIf lightmeter, I usually only look at aperture and shutter speed after setting the ISO to the film's ISO. SO if I leave it on EV instead of aperture, the EV will change as I change the ISO?
So let me see if I understand this right. when I use my Minolta IIIf lightmeter, I usually only look at aperture and shutter speed after setting the ISO to the film's ISO. SO if I leave it on EV instead of aperture, the EV will change as I change the ISO?
Try it. The experiment will only take 2.48 minutes.
Try it. The experiment will only take 2.48 minutes.
OK I tried it on my cellphone app and the EV changes when I change the ISO. But I don't see any advantage of working with EV, especially since I use different film with different ISO's. The settings on my lenses are in shutter speed and f aperture. Why screw around with EV?No, when the ISO on the meter is not 100, the EV number is really an IV and therefore not correct, however the shutter speed and aperture are correct. So transferring the shutter speed and the EV[READ:IV] to the camera is the correct thing to do and then the exposure is correct for any choosen pair on the camera's EV.
- Set ISO on spot meter
- Take reading EV[IV] and make any Zone System adjustments
- That shutter speed and aperture are transferred to the camera
- Now use the Camera's EV adjust for any filters, if necessary
- Now use the Camera's EV to select the shutter speed & aperture pair
Or read the manual... page 8:View attachment 304104
Source: https://www.cameramanuals.org/minolta_pdf/minolta_autometer_iiif.pdf
Or read the manual... page 8:View attachment 304104
Source: https://www.cameramanuals.org/minolta_pdf/minolta_autometer_iiif.pdf
Apparently you don't, Alan, since you succeed at photography without it.Why do I need to know the EV?
Apparently you don't Alan, since you succeed at photography without it.
I use EV when using a camera with EV-interlock. All of the meters I use (3 different Weston, a Sekonic, and 2 different Gossen) display EV just as easily as it does f-stop and speed. EV accelerates the metering process (my opinion, not universally believed) because I've thought in that metric for quite a while. Still need to address a desired shutter speed and aperture, so I understand why some don't think it accelerates the process. I also use EV or LV, whichever the meter displays when measuring light) to scan a scene and see the lighting variances. Again, it's just another shortcut... not needed to succeed in photography.
This discussion alsways seems to go downhill when folks misunderstand their meter display... when a meter shows LV and when a meter is showing EV.
It seems those are two different lighting situations, two stops different. What would the example be if you had the same light?ISO 100, 1/125, f/5.6 = EV 12
ISO 400, 1/125, f/5.6 = EV 10
2 stop difference in Exposure Value
My Pentax digital spotmeter is easier to use visually for changes in EV reading than my Sekonic digital.
The reason the Pentax digital spotmeter is my preference for zone reading usage.
No matter how you get to the correct combo of aperture/shutter speed for a given ISO is all that matters.
I like using the EV setting on my Hasselblad lenses, all other lenses it is straight aperture/shutter-speed settings.
I think it would help to have a light meter and camera that support Exposure Value.
Alan,
I showed the difference when ISO is changed as you asked prior.
If we meter the same light, a couple of equivalency examples:
ISO 100, 1/125, f/5.6 = EV 12
ISO 100, 1/250, f/4 = EV 12
!SO 100, 1/60, f8 = EV 12
ISO 200, 1/125, f/5.6 = EV 11
ISO 200, 1/250, f/4 = EV 11
!SO 200, 1/60, f8 = EV 11
EV scale on Hasselblad CF lens from around 2:49
Alan, they are equivalent exposures.
I've never seen a lens with EV stamped on it. Only f aperture and shutter speeds. Maybe I missed it? How does knowing the EV help anything especially if you're using different speed films, let's say Velvia 50 then Tmax 100 and Tmax 400?
The lenses usually are designed assuming ISO 100, there in lies the problem if you are using a different speed. If the design of the lens also had an input for ISO we would not be having these problems.
Sir... you either need a camera from the 1950's/1960's or a Hasselblad! LOLI've never seen a lens with EV stamped on it.
It's not so much that the lens or meter is designed assuming ISO100, but more that that the very definition of EV assumes EV100, which dictates the design. The lens/meter either conforms to EV definition or they don't. Perhaps picking a nit. This was discussed earlier in this thread, I believe. When not using ISO100, then exposure adjustments must be made... as you and others have indicated.
Sir... you either need a camera from the 1950's/1960's or a Hasselblad! LOL
So worrying about Ev is an exercise in futility. Serves no value unless you operate with 100 ISO film only. This is why I only work in aperture and shutter with ISO of the film. I ignore EV.
So worrying about Ev is an exercise in futility. Serves no value unless you operate with 100 ISO film only. This is why I only work in aperture and shutter with ISO of the film. I ignore EV.
It's not so much that the lens or meter is designed assuming ISO100, but more that that the very definition of EV assumes EV100...
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