Try it. The experiment will only take 2.48 minutes.
Trying to understand the reasoning behind different schools of thought regarding EV in determining exposure
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Try it. The experiment will only take 2.48 minutes.
No, when the ISO on the meter is not 100, the EV number is really an IV and therefore not correct, however the shutter speed and aperture are correct. So transferring the shutter speed and the EV[READ:IV] to the camera is the correct thing to do and then the exposure is correct for any choosen pair on the camera's EV.
- Set ISO on spot meter
- Take reading EV[IV] and make any Zone System adjustments
- That shutter speed and aperture are transferred to the camera
- Now use the Camera's EV adjust for any filters, if necessary
- Now use the Camera's EV to select the shutter speed & aperture pair
Or read the manual... page 8:
Source: https://www.cameramanuals.org/minolta_pdf/minolta_autometer_iiif.pdf
OK I tried it on my cellphone app and the EV changes when I change the ISO. But I don't see any advantage of working with EV, especially since I use different film with different ISO's. The settings on my lenses are in shutter speed and f aperture. Why screw around with EV?
The trusty old RTFM recommendation, but tactfully served.
Yes, I was aware of that. I always switch to f. I never leave it on EV. If I change settings from the meter reading due to filters or whatever, I just add or subtract stops from shutter speed or aperture. Why do I need to know the EV?
Apparently you don't, Alan, since you succeed at photography without it.
I use EV when using a camera with EV-interlock. All of the meters I use (3 different Weston, a Sekonic, and 2 different Gossen) display EV just as easily as it does f-stop and speed. EV accelerates the metering process (my opinion, not universally believed) because I've thought in that metric for quite a while. Still need to address a desired shutter speed and aperture, so I understand why some don't think it accelerates the process. I also use EV or LV, whichever the meter displays when measuring light) to scan a scene and see the lighting variances. Again, it's just another shortcut... not needed to succeed in photography.
This discussion always seems to go downhill when folks misunderstand their meter display... when a meter shows LV and when a meter is showing EV.
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Apparently you don't Alan, since you succeed at photography without it.
I use EV when using a camera with EV-interlock. All of the meters I use (3 different Weston, a Sekonic, and 2 different Gossen) display EV just as easily as it does f-stop and speed. EV accelerates the metering process (my opinion, not universally believed) because I've thought in that metric for quite a while. Still need to address a desired shutter speed and aperture, so I understand why some don't think it accelerates the process. I also use EV or LV, whichever the meter displays when measuring light) to scan a scene and see the lighting variances. Again, it's just another shortcut... not needed to succeed in photography.
This discussion alsways seems to go downhill when folks misunderstand their meter display... when a meter shows LV and when a meter is showing EV.
Wot he sez
: The EV interlock is an advantage on the cameras that have it.
It seems those are two different lighting situations, two stops different. What would the example be if you had the same light?
I've never seen a lens with EV stamped on it. Only f aperture and shutter speeds. Maybe I missed it? How does knowing the EV help anything especially if you're using different speed films, let's say Velvia 50 then Tmax 100 and Tmax 400?
Add three more with ISO 200.
Without stating how much light there is, your posts are just confusing. I believe you just changed the amount of light. Now show six examples with the same amount of light but with two ISOs. Put all six in one post for easy reference, please.
I don;t know what equivalent exposures mean.
The point is you have both 1/125 and f/5.6 as readings for both Iso 100 and 200. That can't be unless the lighting differed by one stop. I asked to show the table for 100 and 200 with light the same in both instances.
Alan... seems like you could benefit from a basic tutorial in light metering. A really inexpensive way to achieve that is to read "Perfect Exposure" by Roger Hicks and Frances Schultz. That book covers it all and Roger/Frances, although he was a very peculiar guy, were real photographic knowledgebases Find it on Alibris.com (or the like) for about $1 plus 3.99 shipping... when I last looked.
EDIT: I just looked. Most inexpensive copy is $2 today. Don't let the price make you think the book isn't worth reading!
EDIT: I just looked. Most inexpensive copy is $2 today.
Don't let the price make you think the book isn't worth reading!
The lenses usually are designed assuming ISO 100, there in lies the problem if you are using a different speed. If the design of the lens also had an input for ISO we would not be having these problems.
It's not so much that the lens or meter is designed assuming ISO100, but more that that the very definition of EV assumes EV100, which dictates the design. The lens/meter either conforms to EV definition or they don't. Perhaps picking a nit. This was discussed earlier in this thread, I believe. When not using ISO100, then exposure adjustments must be made... as you and others have indicated.
Sir... you either need a camera from the 1950's/1960's or a Hasselblad! LOL
By the way with my Gossen Luna Lux and the Sekonic L308 I can use the EV readout to set the lenses directly, hence the problems with the Pentax Digital Spot Meter.
So worrying about Ev is an exercise in futility. Serves no value unless you operate with 100 ISO film only. This is why I only work in aperture and shutter with ISO of the film. I ignore EV.
I have a Mamiya RB67 6x7. I don't like the square format of Hassies. Or their EV's scales.
If you would just buy a Hasselblad or other EV using camera, we could change your opinion.
EV works with all ISO unless you use the Pentax meter which only works for ISO 100. My Minolta Viewmeter 9 EV works for all ISO although it's a very primitive meter.
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The definition EV = 3.322 x log10(n2/t) makes no reference to ISO and does not assume or depend on it in any way.
MattKing
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I doubt that there are any cameras out there that have built in meters and use EV scales.
A lot of the cameras that separate selenium meters that weren't coupled - e.g. Retinas - used EV scales.
EV is an incredibly useful way of expressing exposure - a set of combinations of aperture and shutter speed that are of equal effect (assuming no reciprocity issues).
EV is not a measure of light - it is a measure of camera exposure.
If we are in two different cities, thousands of miles away, I can tell you what combination of settings works for something, and you can get the same results in terms of exposure.
If, however, you need to know what to set your camera to, you need to measure the light, and then factor in the speed of your film. That will tell you whether the EV combination I just shared with you is the right one for you, or whether you need to set your camera to a different EV combination.
The dials/digital scales on meters do that conversion for you. But if you are Ansel Adams without a meter up on top of his car (there he is again) and know what the right exposure combination (EV) for the moon is for one ASA, you can easily translate that to EV that works the same with the ASA film in the camera.
A lot of the cameras that separate selenium meters that weren't coupled - e.g. Retinas - used EV scales.
EV is an incredibly useful way of expressing exposure - a set of combinations of aperture and shutter speed that are of equal effect (assuming no reciprocity issues).
EV is not a measure of light - it is a measure of camera exposure.
If we are in two different cities, thousands of miles away, I can tell you what combination of settings works for something, and you can get the same results in terms of exposure.
If, however, you need to know what to set your camera to, you need to measure the light, and then factor in the speed of your film. That will tell you whether the EV combination I just shared with you is the right one for you, or whether you need to set your camera to a different EV combination.
The dials/digital scales on meters do that conversion for you. But if you are Ansel Adams without a meter up on top of his car (there he is again) and know what the right exposure combination (EV) for the moon is for one ASA, you can easily translate that to EV that works the same with the ASA film in the camera.
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